Air to Fuel Ratio on ASA supercharger

[djyoungz]

well my car has been driving fine for about a week now....but suddenly today my car goes to nearly empty and my check engine light comes on....i fill the car up and the light stays on....i was wondering if i have to change my ASAtronic setting again for some weird reason.....and when i do change the setting....does the car have to be on or off?...how long does it take for it to register da air to fuel ratio....does it do it immediately....

[samir@technik]

This has been known to happen with certain cars when the tank gets very low. The light should go off by itself after a day or two. The ASAtronic does not need to be adjusted.

[xS3x]

This has been known to happen with certain cars when the tank gets very low. The light should go off by itself after a day or two. The ASAtronic does not need to be adjusted.
thats a sick pic samir :thumbup:

[omes]

Samir,
Mine does this whenever I let it go past 1/2 a tank, why is this? Is there any solution? I get rich codes whenever I go past 1/2 a tank of fuel remaining, I have been dialing back my Asatronic and now set to 5.5 turns, I have not gotten any lean codes though. I thought I may have been rich as my fuel economy is the craps about 14mpg and I am not even driving the car that hard.....maybe time to invest in a wideband O2?

[djyoungz]

thanx for your help....i really appreciate it....you guys are amazing.... :thumbup:

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

Fellas,

I can't stress on this enough but if you can, please invest in getting a portable OBD II reader. Carry it in your car. If the CEL comes on, pull aside to a safe place, and plug it in to see what codes you're getting. I have a basic unit from http://www.iequus.com/ and it's been helping me whenever I needed it. No more guessing on what the codes might be triggered. FYI, there at least 15 codes related to fuel. Some of which are temperature, pressure or level sensor problems. It also helps you to pinpoint the issues.

I find it quite difficult, and I am sure Samir agrees too, to diagnose a problem if you guys post about seeing a CEL without posting any codes. :bawling:

So...please invest in one, aye? :thumbup:

[Nt_loader]

Why dont you guys go to a shop that has an AFR meter and tune the car correctly. I dont get any SES or CEL lights. The last time I got a SES was about 7 months ago.

[omes]

Fellas,

I can't stress on this enough but if you can, please invest in getting a portable OBD II reader. Carry it in your car. If the CEL comes on, pull aside to a safe place, and plug it in to see what codes you're getting. I have a basic unit from http://www.iequus.com/ and it's been helping me whenever I needed it. No more guessing on what the codes might be triggered. FYI, there at least 15 codes related to fuel. Some of which are temperature, pressure or level sensor problems. It also helps you to pinpoint the issues.

I find it quite difficult, and I am sure Samir agrees too, to diagnose a problem if you guys post about seeing a CEL without posting any codes. :bawling:

So...please invest in one, aye? :thumbup:

Thanks I will have to check into that portable one....i think it is related to my fuel tank remaining though....i don't see a relationship there though, I have one but run it with my laptop and i would be a pain to have to carry it with me.

[omes]

Why dont you guys go to a shop that has an AFR meter and tune the car correctly. I dont get any SES or CEL lights. The last time I got a SES was about 7 months ago.

Yeah i am going to get some more tuning done, i think i may seriously consider a wideband for real time monitoring, when i did my dynos i was very rich and have been dialing it back quite a bit with the asatronic, I am at 5.5 turns and have never got a lean code. Just rich one bank 1 and 2 when my fuel gauge drops below 1/2 a tank??? Also the shop that did my dyno work just stuck a probe in the muffler, I am guessing to be done properly it needs to be done pre-cats, I have the bung welded in so just need to get it done.

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

Thanks I will have to check into that portable one....i think it is related to my fuel tank remaining though....i don't see a relationship there though, I have one but run it with my laptop and i would be a pain to have to carry it with me.


You know something...I just might have an explanation why it occurs after 1/2 tank. The CEL appears after some consecutive check cycles (gotta read the Bentley again). In short, when the OBD registered the code for the first time, it won't display it until it is being confirmed again. It could be that driving for 1/2 tank coincides with completing check cycles. Just a guess, but a valid one.

One experiment that you can do is fill up the tank to 3/4 full and see what happens. Remember not to change your routine driving styles too much.

[omes]

You know something...I just might have an explanation why it occurs after 1/2 tank. The CEL appears after some consecutive check cycles (gotta read the Bentley again). In short, when the OBD registered the code for the first time, it won't display it until it is being confirmed again. It could be that driving for 1/2 tank coincides with completing check cycles. Just a guess, but a valid one.

One experiment that you can do is fill up the tank to 3/4 full and see what happens. Remember not to change your routine driving styles too much.


Good thought I will try it i topped up last night but just before it get to half I will top up to maybe about 3/4 full and drive for a bit, not sure if that is it because most of my drives are less than 10 miles so I am doing about 10 of these short trips before it comes on. As Samir said it often happens on some cars but don't understand the relationship. Maybe has something to do with hydrostatic pressure of a full tank vs one that is half full or less on the FFPR? Thanks again for the insight. :thumbup: Great to know there are fellow members not afraid to use their noodle.

[djyoungz]

ok i think i figured it out but its weird....until just a few seconds ago when i filled it up with mobile the check engine light came on...it seems that whenever i use anything but mobil the check engine light comes on....

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

ok i think i figured it out but its weird....until just a few seconds ago when i filled it up with mobile the check engine light came on...it seems that whenever i use anything but mobil the check engine light comes on....


I am trying to understand what you're saying. How about some if, then statements?

If mobil -> then CEL ON
If not mobil -> then CEL ON

So regardless of brand of fuel, CEL ON.

What are you trying to establish here? :dunno: :P

[djyoungz]

the only time my CEL came on was when i filled it with some other gas company don't remember which one....but as soon as i filled my tank with Mobil the check engine light was gone....

[djyoungz]

Fellas,

I can't stress on this enough but if you can, please invest in getting a portable OBD II reader. Carry it in your car. If the CEL comes on, pull aside to a safe place, and plug it in to see what codes you're getting. I have a basic unit from http://www.iequus.com/ and it's been helping me whenever I needed it. No more guessing on what the codes might be triggered. FYI, there at least 15 codes related to fuel. Some of which are temperature, pressure or level sensor problems. It also helps you to pinpoint the issues.

I find it quite difficult, and I am sure Samir agrees too, to diagnose a problem if you guys post about seeing a CEL without posting any codes. :bawling:

So...please invest in one, aye? :thumbup:

where is the OB2 port located in our cars....i took your advice and now i have an OB2 reader sitting right next to me and i wanted to know where it connects to....thanx

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

where is the OB2 port located in our cars....i took your advice and now i have an OB2 reader sitting right next to me and i wanted to know where it connects to....thanx


Near the dead pedal. The OBD port is facing down. You need to remove the port cover.

[djyoungz]

there's something wrong with mine i think....because when i tried to put my hand in there to c where the port is it came out....i had to unscrew under the dash to fit it back in....when i finally plugged in the OB2 scanner and pushed link......it said error or something....do you think someone could have messed with my ob2 port when they installed a stereo for example or somethin like dat....

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

Maybe a couple of wires are out of place or something. Take a pictures and post it here.

there's something wrong with mine i think....because when i tried to put my hand in there to c where the port is it came out....i had to unscrew under the dash to fit it back in....when i finally plugged in the OB2 scanner and pushed link......it said error or something....do you think someone could have messed with my ob2 port when they installed a stereo for example or somethin like dat....

[omes]

there's something wrong with mine i think....because when i tried to put my hand in there to c where the port is it came out....i had to unscrew under the dash to fit it back in....when i finally plugged in the OB2 scanner and pushed link......it said error or something....do you think someone could have messed with my ob2 port when they installed a stereo for example or somethin like dat....

Just to double check .....your engine needs to be running or the ignition must be in the acc. position.

[djyoungz]

i have no digi cam so i can't take pics....and also i tried wit da engine off...engine on....and the acc. position...and it still kept reading error....

[omes]

i have no digi cam so i can't take pics....and also i tried wit da engine off...engine on....and the acc. position...and it still kept reading error....

Sorry man, i have no experience with that unit, I had a little bit of grief with mine for my laptop as i didn't have a serial port and had to get an adapter and driver for usb. I know there are different protocols like ISO....ect....are you 100% sure this unit is ok for bmw obdII? Hopefully mr.paddleshift can help. I don't think the stereo install would have affected your obdII port.

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

Again, it's difficult to understand the situation unless there is a picture.

You should diagnose the system when your key is in the second position (not starting the engine). I believe the instructions have some procedures.

[erick-323i]

djyoungz, I have a Euro 323i (production date: 08/1999). Where is your OBDII? Under the bigger square flap? Please take a look at the pictures. Does yours also have a 20-pin circular connector in the engine bay?

I ordered an OBDII Digimoto scanner and i'm trying to figure out If my car does indeed have the ODBII connector; according to this german webpage:

http://216.239.37.104/translate_c?hl=en&langpair=de%7Cen&u=http://www.obd-2.de/tech_com-bmw.html&prev=/language_tools

my car should be covered. Anyone else know about this?

[djyoungz]

you see where that dead pedal is....its right above that....in a little square thing and its labeled OBD2 but when i tried to plug the thing in it popped out as if someone had been messing with it before....i had to unscrew part of the under dash, stick my hand in, hold it where it was supposed to be and plugged in the scanner....and all i got was Error...

[erick-323i]

So I guess yours is completely different... mine probably doesnt have it :cry:

damn it! I'm gonna have to return the damn cables and software! :banghead:

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

I think I know what's your issue. Basically you're saying that the OBD2 socket is not staying in place, but rather "loose". That's not right. I am guessing someone might have broken the OBD2 trim clips or something.

What you need to do is get the dealer to look at it.

On the other hand, I just realized you had a 323i. Is your car a later 2000 model? Cos FWIG, most 2000 323s have the 20pin OBD port in the engine bay and not the OBD2 16-pin port under the dash.

you see where that dead pedal is....its right above that....in a little square thing and its labeled OBD2 but when i tried to plug the thing in it popped out as if someone had been messing with it before....i had to unscrew part of the under dash, stick my hand in, hold it where it was supposed to be and plugged in the scanner....and all i got was Error...

[djyoungz]

mine is a 2000 steptronic 323i....it says obd 2 on the little square under the dash thing...

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

mine is a 2000 steptronic 323i....it says obd 2 on the little square under the dash thing...

Good. Then I am sure that the OBD2 socket is damaged. You can get it diagnosed and replaced by the dealer.

[epeart]

Fellas,

I can't stress on this enough but if you can, please invest in getting a portable OBD II reader. Carry it in your car. If the CEL comes on, pull aside to a safe place, and plug it in to see what codes you're getting. I have a basic unit from http://www.iequus.com/ and it's been helping me whenever I needed it. No more guessing on what the codes might be triggered. FYI, there at least 15 codes related to fuel. Some of which are temperature, pressure or level sensor problems. It also helps you to pinpoint the issues.

I find it quite difficult, and I am sure Samir agrees too, to diagnose a problem if you guys post about seeing a CEL without posting any codes. :bawling:

So...please invest in one, aye? :thumbup:Mr Paddle .Shift You seem to have them most Knowledgeable person on the forum that I've seen so far. maybe you can help me with my problem. We just finished installing my ASA-SK1 and they did my clutch at the same time nothing special just the factory for now. but my problem is that the new clutch kit wont engage, you just get a grinding sound and the pedal is rock hard.we took it down and re-installed it 3 times and still the same problem the third time it went through the gears but when we dropped the car now the body weight is on the axels the same thing happens again we thought it could be the slave cylinder was going bad but the piston fires out o.k. so we left to think that it's a weak pressure plate (defective) the dealer say bring it in they"ll let their warrenty guys look at it to see if its defective before exchanging it , also I'm not geting any reading from my boost guage either. Is their any vac hose or anything of that sort that might have effected the clutch at th time of install also the boost guage? HELP :dunno: epeart

[epeart]

This has been known to happen with certain cars when the tank gets very low. The light should go off by itself after a day or two. The ASAtronic does not need to be adjusted.I'm looking to You and Mr. Paddle. Shift sa the guys with the Most Knowledge on the forum. IJumped onto a thread that Mr.Paddle. Shift had answered . so I'm reaching out to you for some help as well, We finished installing My ASA SK1 kit on my 2000 323i and we did the Clutch install at the same time Problem 1 The clutch wont engage and the pedal is stiff like wood we took down clutch and re-installed it 3 times same problem however the 3rd time the clutch was working going through the gears but when we dropped the car onit's wheels the same thing occured grinding,stiff pedal and won't engage. We thought it might be a defective slave cylinder but the piston pushes out fine. So we're left to belive its a defective clutch (Pressure Plate). Is there any Vac hose or any thing of tha sort during the install of the blower that could case a problem like this? plus Problem 2 I'm not getting readings form my boost guage as well I checked the guage it works. Do you think I'm tapped to th wrong vac line ? HELP :dunno: epeart

[Mr Paddle.Shift]

epeart:

I appreicate the kind words. But Technik is just as knowledgeable, if not more than me. Besides, I hate to disappoint you but I have a Steptronic. :(

WRT to the gauge not working, test the signals going into the gauge. Definitely check the lines again. For my Greddy gauge, when I turn the key to the second position, the boost gauge needle will swing from 736mmHg to 0 to indicate funtionality. When the car is started, it swings back to about 500mmHg. Also, when I switch on my headlights, thereby switching on the interior lights the gauge is lighted.

In any case, try to get hold of Technik. Keep us posted.

[erick-323i]

I think I know what's your issue. Basically you're saying that the OBD2 socket is not staying in place, but rather "loose". That's not right. I am guessing someone might have broken the OBD2 trim clips or something.

What you need to do is get the dealer to look at it.

On the other hand, I just realized you had a 323i. Is your car a later 2000 model? Cos FWIG, most 2000 323s have the 20pin OBD port in the engine bay and not the OBD2 16-pin port under the dash.


American (1996+) BMWs should have the OBD-II 16-pin port; Euro BMW are supposed to have it (1999+). I have a Euro 1999 and it doesn't seem have it; so i guess it is 2000+.