*******! Bmw Audio Experts

[99328isport]

I have recently purchased a JL audio stealth box for my e46. I have read all the threads I could find on the installation and I have some questions to clear up some inconsistencies in the threads.

1) What wire to tap into for the remote turn on for amp. Someone posted to splice into white wire on main speaker amp. Someone posted that dosnt have enough power to be a remote wire and that something from front needed to be used. There must be a wire to tap into in the rear... right?

2)Do you tap the speaker wire before or after it enters the HK sub amp? (for the line ouput)

3) Any other install tips you can think of to help me out

Finally if you have experience with these drop me some comments so if they suck I can get rid of them before I use them

Thanks :)

[MCD007]

The remote wire is the white wire coming from the head unit to the factory amp.

Tap the input signals for the hk subs before they reach the stock amp and re-route them to you converter or whatever.

[99328isport]

Thanks

Do you have ne experience with these? How do they sound?

[guest1016]

THE STEALTHS ARE EXCELLENT! The most important aspect is sealing them well to the bottem of your package shelf, if not sealed correctly, output will be severely reduced. As far as the white wire goes, your right on both accounts. Depending on your amp, it may or may not work as a turn on lead. I can't remember the exact output voltage, put it's not alot, I tried it w/ my Xtants for example & it wasn't enough, but some amps it will work w/, just try it & hope for the best. Here is a pic of my stealth's I recently took.....it's enough to shake the mirror w/ out sacrificinh trunk space, of which there is very little:banghead:

[MCD007]

Originally posted by cls1000
As far as the white wire goes, your right on both accounts. Depending on your amp, it may or may not work as a turn on lead. I can't remember the exact output voltage, put it's not alot, I tried it w/ my Xtants for example & it wasn't enough


Whoa thats crazy. :yikes: I use the white wire to turn on 3 amps, an EQ and a A/V box all at once.

[Staszek]

I used the white wire before it hit my amp, (I have the Non HK) it works fine for me!

[guest1016]

Yeah, I know it's strange, but like he stated, if you read through some old posts, for some people it works & some it doesn't. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

[vinnymac]

You must use the white lead from the main amp...NOT the HK sub amp (if you have one). The output voltage is 11.2v the last time I measured it. It will work fine for most amps...if not, you can always install a simple SPST relay and power as many components as you want.

Here's my wiring diagram for adding a sub/amp to the HK system...

[vinnymac]

.

[Kyle325ci]

rear speakers? Dont you need something?

[99328isport]

1) What is an alternative to the white wire?

2)where did u mount your amp, cls1000?

[99328isport]

VinnyMac I noticed u have line output after the signal goes through amp? Why not before it hits the amp like others have said?

[guest1016]

i'm using the factory rear mids X-over at 200HZ w/ a 24Db sloap running off the deck power for rear fill, which work excellent in this app in my opinion. I have them time corrected though at the moment, but am still pleased w/ the results...

[99328isport]

CLS, is there a crossover for the rears or did you add one? Also will I have problems with my cd changer skipping with subs in the back, any idea?

[MCD007]

i fade most to front to preserve imaging. So I dont really worry about replacing the rears.

[DamUTRIPPIN]

Originally posted by cls1000
...The most important aspect is sealing them well to the bottem of your package shelf, if not sealed correctly, output will be severely reduced. ...

cls1000:

What do you mean by this? Seal in what fashion?

[guest1016]

no, my head unit has x-overs built in (alpine)
As far as the stealth box goes, they give you some adhesive backed foam (not enough by the way) that you need to stick to EVERY top surface of the box so it COMPLETELY seals underneath the rear package shelf. If there are any leaks at all the output will suffer, because remember your using the trunk as the enclosure w/ this setup.

[biggiestuff]

what amp do ya'll recommend using with the stealthboxes?

[guest1016]

can be wired either 8 ohm stereo or 4 ohm mono. 150w rms power handling mono, so try to find a high quality amp that puts out 150 RMS into a 4 ohm mono load and you'll be set. I'm using Xtant.

[nj323ci]

Here are a few pics of my stealthbox installed by StreetEffectz. They sound awsome for 2 8" subs. I am powering them with an Alpine m100.:thumbup:

http://www.streeteffectz.com/AUDIOpics/alex1.jpg
http://www.streeteffectz.com/AUDIOpics/alex2.jpg
http://www.streeteffectz.com/AUDIOpics/alex5.jpg

[Jeremy152]

Has anyone dynamat'd the underside of the trunk shelf? It seems as though it might be necessary as that it's the only exposed metal around the trunk.

CLS1000 - it looks like you mounted your amp in that trunk shelf location upside down like I was thinking. How'd you get it to stay? Did the holes in the amp line up with the holes in the shelf? Any suggestions for me doing this? Also what wattage does the stealth boxes take? Will the wires be a thick enough gauge to support the power? Thanks!!

[guest1016]

hello.......
yeah, the xtant's i used worked pretty well upside down due to he heat sink design. I've head them in there now for, um, i dunno, maybe a year & a half, & i haven't touched them since the install. As for mounting, I just drilled holes on the underside of the deck. Even when the amps are removed, you will never be able to tell.
The stealths are rated at 150 per pair (75w each) being they come w/ 8ohm speakers, they run in a 4 ohm mono application, so a 150rms amp at a 4 ohm load will be perfect.