ESS Intake Filter??? [Archive]

Mizar

05-08-2006, 11:48 PM

Hey guys. Trying to find out at what mileage I need to change out the intake filter on the ESS TX2 kit. What filter I need to buy when its time to change it out (make and model #)? Or is it a "cleanable" filter like K&Ns? I remember looking at it while it was in the box and am sure it was not made by K&N. Asbjorn, Jack....any input?

Thanks.
Ja, I'd like to know, too. Mine is blue, I think made in France (don't have box with me right now) and it says it is washable. What would the interval be? Also, it seems the thing is so big that it does not look like I can pull it out for washing... Will I have to remove the bumper for that? I guess so... OMG.

faded,
how's your car doing? How do you like the kit? Did you have it done professionally? I just finished my install about a good week ago, some 550 miles on it now. Had it dynoed yesterday. Max power went from 164.2 hp (before) to 247.9 hp (after), and max. torque went from 155.5 ft*lb to 204.6 ft*lb. That's for a 2001 325it, 5spd. Done on a DynoJet 224 with a fairly beefy looking fan. Does that sound like what can be expected from the TX-2? I'd be happy to share the dyno files (*.drf), if anyone is interested. Just pm me. I went to a local tuning shop during their "dyno days". Man, I can tell you, I was turning quite some heads with a "soccer mom"-type station wagon in the middle of all those 18 year-old kids with their souped-up Civics..... Btw, I love the fact how quiet the engine still is. My car clearly got the most hp per decibel that day. Love it!!

Also, I have humming/rattling noise in idle coming from where the intake filter is. But when I touch/move/push/pull the filter or the hose leading to it, it does not feel like it's really coming from the filter, even though it sounds it's coming somewhere from that direction. It is clearly not the bent pipe on the compressor inlet against the strut tower, I had that, too, and that feels much different... Todd, any ideas?

MarvelPhx

05-09-2006, 01:30 AM

The blue one is a lighter oiled version of the K&N type. Clean it as you would a K&N but it needs half the oil. The oil can foul the MAF if overdone.

faded67

05-09-2006, 08:42 AM

What color is it...

Todd..I can't even remember the color. I'll have to check that. Can I use let's say a K&N with a particular size?

Mizar,

My kit was professionally installed. I have had no major issues. The one piece of piping that has the two rubber tubing on each end popped off under boost release once. It was a quick fix. I have not yet dynoed my car. Been busy with life and lazy at the same time. The car probably has 1700 miles on it now with the TX2 and its running strong. At first I was a bit dissappointed with the "butt dyno", but I guess after the adaptation and learning curve on driving with the new power, its been a blast. I have had two "official" runs against friends. 04' G35 (killed him by like 3 1/2 cars) and a couple days ago a run against a B6 S4 (I also got him by like 2 cars, but he said he was not ready.) We will run again.

Yes the damn filter is way down and snug. I think I'll need to remove the bumper as well, unless I can find a way to get to it from underneath with a lift?

***But can anyone tell me how many miles before I should change out or clean the air filter?

Thanks.

maxnathan

05-09-2006, 04:04 PM

Mizar, the rattling noise could be the metal intake elbow riding against the suspension well. As for the humming noise - it sounds similar to my problem! I disconnected the front one way valve to the intake elbow and the noise dissapeared! Apparently, its to do with the vacuum bypass system.

Try disconnecting the one way valve and see if the noise dissapears....

Faded67, can you reach the filter by removing your wheel and detaching the front wheel arch flap ( behind the filter) instead of removing the front bumper? I cut away most of the brake ducting ( as Todd did) to accomodate the filter.

faded67

05-09-2006, 04:48 PM

Mizar

07-17-2006, 07:24 PM

The blue one is a lighter oiled version of the K&N type. Clean it as you would a K&N but it needs half the oil. The oil can foul the MAF if overdone.

Just some feedback on the filter issue: I have the TX-2, and the kit came with the blue filter. After about 2500 miles I noticed some hesitation when stepping on the throttle (where did the beautiful responsiveness of my BMW-engine go???) and in idle the rpms would first drop from 700 to about 500 and then recover. Terrible at take off. You either stall the engine right away or at least lose time. I could barely keep up with some city busses and garbage trucks taking off from the stop light. Arrrggghh!!

I guess, the blue filter came with the oil "overdone" as Marvel said above. Bought some MAF sensor cleaner from PepBoys and it's good again. However, the intake pipe to the compressor is all oily on the inside. Is that going to be a problem for other parts in the engine? On top of that the flexible hose connection to the MAF sensor does not necessarily seal right if you use just the supplied hose clamp. The flex tube has that steel wire in it that prevents it from making a good seal. I had a leak there that allowed air to be sucked in there, bypassing the filter (tried to seal that now with ATV (?) silicone). Accordingly, the oily deposit I found in the intake tube right before the compressor was loaded with grit. I don't think that's all that good for your engine wear! Watch out for this on your TX-2s.

Mizar

07-17-2006, 07:28 PM

Mizar, the rattling noise could be the metal intake elbow riding against the suspension well. As for the humming noise - it sounds similar to my problem! I disconnected the front one way valve to the intake elbow and the noise dissapeared! Apparently, its to do with the vacuum bypass system.

Try disconnecting the one way valve and see if the noise dissapears....

Maxnathan,
I tried that (disconnecting and reconnecting), and indeed the humming noise is gone, at least for now. Has anyone had a similar issue or can anyone explain that? I'd love to understand how all these vacuum lines work, anyway...

faded67

07-17-2006, 07:46 PM

Maxnathan,
I tried that (disconnecting and reconnecting), and indeed the humming noise is gone, at least for now. Has anyone had a similar issue or can anyone explain that? I'd love to understand how all these vacuum lines work, anyway...

I have no humming noise at all. I still have not yet changed/checked the filter. I have about 7500 miles on the SC now. Still strong as ever.

MarvelPhx

07-17-2006, 07:51 PM

I went out and pulled my hoses off the MAF and I don't have a sealing issue there with the wire reinforced hose. Clean as a whistle even here in dust bowl AZ. What I would recommend is rotating the clamp until the wire of the hose is opposite the actual screw of the hose clamp. This will put the most secure clamping force on the wire part. You can also clip the wire back a bit from the end of the hose so you are only clamping the silicone.

Our MAFs are sensitive little bastards, and the oiling of the filter is not done by ESS, so it's hard to guess what effect it will have when they go out the door. The best thing is when you feel a difference like you did. Check it and clean as necessary. Thing is, its not a SC related issue at all, it has to do with any aftermarket intake/filter.

The noise you guys hear is likely coming from the connection between the vacuum rail and the 1" PCV connector right before the SC inlet. There is a one-way valve in that line. Under certain conditions, it can make noise. You can disconnect it, but it is there for a purpose to act as a fume reduction circuit on throttle lift. Keeps PCV vapors from surging back to the MAF. Make sure the one-way valve is pointing the right way, which is towards the intake manifold (it should have an arrow on it).

maxnathan

07-18-2006, 04:48 PM

Mizar, I sent my entire vacuum line back to ESS for testing and Hans found that the one-way valve ( front vacuum connection to 1" PCV connector) was faulty. Hans mentioned that in the UK, its not neccessary but it`s a neccesity for you guys.

Also had the French Blue filter and boy was it filthy after 500 miles!! It was easy enough to clean though and as Todd said just keep cleaning your MAF with the no residue flux cleaner if engine responsiveness is lacking. Also, has oil in the S/C intake elbow as well as in the tubing before the throttle body and idle control valve - could be because i didn`t use the one way valve system ........:tsk:

Cheers

Max

Mizar

07-18-2006, 08:57 PM

Todd,

thanks for your suggestions! Much appreciated! A few more questions/comments:

I went out and pulled my hoses off the MAF and I don't have a sealing issue there with the wire reinforced hose. Clean as a whistle even here in dust bowl AZ. What I would recommend is rotating the clamp until the wire of the hose is opposite the actual screw of the hose clamp. This will put the most secure clamping force on the wire part. You can also clip the wire back a bit from the end of the hose so you are only clamping the silicone.
Yes, that's about what I did. I think I have that sealing issue under control now.

Our MAFs are sensitive little bastards, and the oiling of the filter is not done by ESS, so it's hard to guess what effect it will have when they go out the door. The best thing is when you feel a difference like you did. Check it and clean as necessary. Thing is, its not a SC related issue at all, it has to do with any aftermarket intake/filter.
Do you think the oil in the intake elbow is a problem for the engine or any other part of the system? It was a noticeable and visible oil film, but there were no beads of oil. I guess I could wash the filter now and re-oil more sparingly. Or is it OK to just keep driving like this? Any recommendation?

Also, I still believe that I have to remove the bumper in order to get to the air filter. Is there another filter available somewhere with a smaller diameter (the filter could be longer to provide the same surface area), such that I can pull it up and out with the flex hose? Are there any specific requirements for the filter, or can I just get one that I think will fit through the opening past the head light?

The noise you guys hear is likely coming from the connection between the vacuum rail and the 1" PCV connector right before the SC inlet. There is a one-way valve in that line. Under certain conditions, it can make noise. You can disconnect it, but it is there for a purpose to act as a fume reduction circuit on throttle lift. Keeps PCV vapors from surging back to the MAF. Make sure the one-way valve is pointing the right way, which is towards the intake manifold (it should have an arrow on it).
Interestingly, the noise came clearly from a zone in the vicinity of the filter, but probably not from the filter itself, as I could not feel any vibration of the filter. Maybe it came from the return pipe from the intercooler? In any case, removing and reconnecting the above-mentioned vacuum line several times fixed the grumbling noise. I am driving with all lines properly installed - no noise. What a mystery...

Mizar

07-18-2006, 09:00 PM

faded67

07-18-2006, 09:06 PM

MarvelPhx

07-18-2006, 09:46 PM

Do you think the oil in the intake elbow is a problem for the engine or any other part of the system? It was a noticeable and visible oil film, but there were no beads of oil. I guess I could wash the filter now and re-oil more sparingly. Or is it OK to just keep driving like this? Any recommendation?

Also, I still believe that I have to remove the bumper in order to get to the air filter. Is there another filter available somewhere with a smaller diameter (the filter could be longer to provide the same surface area), such that I can pull it up and out with the flex hose? Are there any specific requirements for the filter, or can I just get one that I think will fit through the opening past the head light?

It is normal to have oil residue in the elbow right before the SC inlet. The PCV tube (the 1" hose you pulled from under the manifold on install) pulls crankcase vapors out of the engine. Normally these are sucked into the intake manifold and burned as part of typical combustion operation. Since it needs to see vacuum, it is moved to before the SC.

You can actually access the filter by popping off the wheel and removing the front half portion of the fender liner. That is how I checked my filter. I do not know if changing the supplied filter is recommended or what results it may have.

faded67

07-18-2006, 10:04 PM

It is normal to have oil residue in the elbow right before the SC inlet. The PCV tube (the 1" hose you pulled from under the manifold on install) pulls crankcase vapors out of the engine. Normally these are sucked into the intake manifold and burned as part of typical combustion operation. Since it needs to see vacuum, it is moved to before the SC.

You can actually access the filter by popping off the wheel and removing the front half portion of the fender liner. That is how I checked my filter. I do not know if changing the supplied filter is recommended or what results it may have.

Understood on the filter type. What about cleaning? Do I need to purchase a specific cleaner/oil or can I use any one?

Mizar

07-18-2006, 10:11 PM

Glad you worked out the noise issue Mizar. I too have the same question regarding the filter size. I am afraid that I will have to remove my front bumper to get to it as well. I still don't know what kind of filter it originally was as I was told it could have been two different ones. I was rummaging through the garage today and think I have found the original box it came in (not 100% sure). It's labeled as "JR Air Filter" on a yellow box and seems to be made in France. Does that sound right? I would be happy to simply find a K&N substitute. Is that doable, or does the filter need to be specific?

Thanks
Well, I guess, we are on our own if we go ahead and replace the filter. I have not done any research yet. Let me know if you find anything. I'll do the same. However, if one can get to the filter via the fender liner, that might be an option, too. Yes, mine also came in a yellow box from France, that's all I remember. And that box, too, must still be somewhere in the garage... I'll have to find it for some maintenance instructions.

Anyway, whatever the little gripes about the filter - now that the studid grumble is gone (boy, that was audible from about half a block away, actually), I can't wait to shut down the computer, hop in my quick little wagon, and zooooom back home! :)

MarvelPhx

07-18-2006, 10:22 PM

Understood on the filter type. What about cleaning? Do I need to purchase a specific cleaner/oil or can I use any one?

Not sure, but I would think a K&N recharge kit would work on oiled filters.

As for complete replacements, contact ESS. I am sure they can refer to a local replacement model.

maxnathan

07-19-2006, 12:07 PM

Mizar I was more puzzled about the oil before the throttle body and idle control valve (Todd had advised me earlier that the oil in the intake elbow is a normal thing). Also didn`t have a chance to clean the filter and reuse it as my TX system has gone to a good home now:cry:
Notice how the Infintas kits use a smaller filter sitting in the engine bay - much easier access.

Cheers

Max

faded67

07-19-2006, 06:12 PM

Mizar, Todd said just keep cleaning your MAF with the no residue flux cleaner if engine responsiveness is lacking.
Max

Max was there a vendor here that carried the MAF cleaner? Do you know what its called?

maxnathan

07-20-2006, 06:02 AM

Tom has that covered, mate.......:clap:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=383460&highlight=MAF+cleaner

Good Luck

Max

faded67

07-20-2006, 08:23 AM

Asbjorn got a hold of me and said that the K&N filter cleaner would be ok to use. Again, just to make sure you do not over do it with both the cleaner, oild, and to make certain you give it adequate "drying" time. He also told me that a comparable K&N filter is ok to use.

I plan on getting one instead of cleaning and oiling. I'll just need to get to my original filter to get the sizing of the opening.

Thanks again to Asbjorn for returning my messages quickly.

jdm3

07-20-2006, 08:45 AM

>Notice how the Infintas kits use a smaller filter sitting in the engine bay - much easier access.

Yes, but also warmer air, lower filter area and more noise. I would rather spend 5 minutes taking out a properly sized filter from the bumper area than 2 minutes taking out a RC car filter from the engine bay.

maxnathan

07-20-2006, 05:13 PM

jdm3 - I take your points but i know plenty of beemers here (in the UK) running the infintas systems without any issues relating to extra noise or heat. Infinitas is more popular than ESS here - i guess i wanted to be different:thumbsup:

Cheers

Max

stylinexpat

07-20-2006, 11:59 PM

Those filters definitely get dirty fast and need to be replaced, I'm due to get mine replaced soon.

faded67

07-21-2006, 08:47 AM

Those filters definitely get dirty fast and need to be replaced, I'm due to get mine replaced soon.

How many miles do you have on yours stylinexpat?

stylinexpat

07-21-2006, 12:25 PM

How many miles do you have on yours stylinexpat?

Not that many but the thing gets dirty just by sitting around for a couple of months.

stylinexpat

10-24-2006, 02:20 PM

Not sure, but I would think a K&N recharge kit would work on oiled filters.

As for complete replacements, contact ESS. I am sure they can refer to a local replacement model.

I did not find anything on the ESS website for filter replacements or parts support. One would figure that they would list that product on their website along with a part number or alternative part number for people who need to replace their filters. Having sold many kits, do these people not need to buy new filters or does everyone need to send an e-mail to Asbjorn and wait for a reply to get filter information after?:hmm:

faded67

10-24-2006, 02:42 PM

I did not find anything on the ESS website for filter replacements or parts support. One would figure that they would list that product on their website along with a part number or alternative part number for people who need to replace their filters. Having sold many kits, do these people not need to buy new filters or does everyone need to send an e-mail to Asbjorn and wait for a reply to get filter information after?:hmm:

Hey Stylin,

I talked to AJ a while back regarding this. He told me that a comparable K&N can be used as well as a K&N recharge kit to jusy clean your existing filter.

stylinexpat

10-25-2006, 12:30 AM

Hey Stylin,

I talked to AJ a while back regarding this. He told me that a comparable K&N can be used as well as a K&N recharge kit to jusy clean your existing filter.

I remember him saying this as well to me but they can at least either offer the new replacement filter on their website or offer a part # for a similiar K&N filter that will work to replce it. I guess the simple things people neglect to do or look after. The filter is something that needs replacing every once in a while.

faded67

10-25-2006, 02:39 AM

I remember him saying this as well to me but they can at least either offer the new replacement filter on their website or offer a part # for a similiar K&N filter that will work to replce it. I guess the simple things people neglect to do or look after. The filter is something that needs replacing every once in a while.

I agree. That would be much easier.

stylinexpat

10-25-2006, 02:30 PM

I agree. That would be much easier.

If the website was more organized then we all would not feel like we owe someone something or are asking someone for a favor just to get some information on a part or part number. Either the part or part information should be up on their website for the customer who needs to order a replacement part for a Supercharger kit. I guess its better to pick out a few people in a forum of a few hundred people to respond to:hmm:

Asbjorn@ESS

10-25-2006, 03:03 PM

If the website was more organized then we all would not feel like we owe someone something or are asking someone for a favor just to get some information on a part or part number. Either the part or part information should be up on their website for the customer who needs to order a replacement part for a Supercharger kit. I guess its better to pick out a few people in a forum of a few hundred people to respond to:hmm:

There is no standardized filter we use in all kits, it depends on what model car/engine size/production year/availability when we purchase filters in quantity etc. This is the reason we do not post any fits all info since there are just to many combinations (another great thing with the TS btw as it uses a stock filter and airbox). The general rule is to clean the filter you have/find a new filter of the same dimensions or order one for your specific kit from ESS every 20-25000 miles.

Mizar

10-25-2006, 06:48 PM

There is no standardized filter we use in all kits, it depends on what model car/engine size/production year/availability when we purchase filters in quantity etc. This is the reason we do not post any fits all info since there are just to many combinations (another great thing with the TS btw as it uses a stock filter and airbox). The general rule is to clean the filter you have/find a new filter of the same dimensions or order one for your specific kit from ESS every 20-25000 miles.

Asbjorn,

would the stock air box of a 2001 325it work for the TX-2? I know that there probably is not enough space to put it, but I am still wondering if that stock box with the stock filter would deliver enough air at no extra pressure drop. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Mizar

stylinexpat

10-25-2006, 10:56 PM

There is no standardized filter we use in all kits, it depends on what model car/engine size/production year/availability when we purchase filters in quantity etc. This is the reason we do not post any fits all info since there are just to many combinations (another great thing with the TS btw as it uses a stock filter and airbox). The general rule is to clean the filter you have/find a new filter of the same dimensions or order one for your specific kit from ESS every 20-25000 miles.

I needed a new one pretty badly and tried to order one from you 4-5 days ago but after 4-5 days of telling you what I needed urgently in a PM sent to you I get this reply:hmm:

Asbjorn@ESS

10-26-2006, 07:26 PM

I needed a new one pretty badly and tried to order one from you 4-5 days ago but after 4-5 days of telling you what I needed urgently in a PM sent to you I get this reply:hmm:

I have not received a PM from you on this issue, and neither has sales@ess. I also checked all incoming ESS emails from your email account and no emails on this issue.

If you want a new filter urgently, you can call us during business hours and we will get you one ASAP.

But why would you need a new one? You have less than 2000 miles on the one you have?

Asbjorn@ESS

10-26-2006, 07:27 PM

Asbjorn,

would the stock air box of a 2001 325it work for the TX-2? I know that there probably is not enough space to put it, but I am still wondering if that stock box with the stock filter would deliver enough air at no extra pressure drop. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Mizar

No, the TX2 SC sits where the OEM airbox is located. On the TS we engineered in enough room for the factory airbox.

stylinexpat

10-27-2006, 12:28 AM

I have not received a PM from you on this issue, and neither has sales@ess. I also checked all incoming ESS emails from your email account and no emails on this issue.

If you want a new filter urgently, you can call us during business hours and we will get you one ASAP.

But why would you need a new one? You have less than 2000 miles on the one you have?

This one has been sitting while I was gone and seems to be very dirty, I would rather just put a new one on. Better safe then sorry, rather replace filter then Mass Air Flow Meter. I don't know why you did not receive them, I had sent 2 e-mails to you..:hmm:

Asbjorn@ESS

10-27-2006, 12:41 PM

This one has been sitting while I was gone and seems to be very dirty, I would rather just put a new one on. Better safe then sorry, rather replace filter then Mass Air Flow Meter. I don't know why you did not receive them, I had sent 2 e-mails to you..:hmm:

Filters do not get very dirty by sitting in your car without beeing used. The MAF is much less happy with a newly oiled filter than your old one which is dryer.

You could have been blocked by spam filters, but there is no PM from you either.

My recommendation is to not touch your filter at this point.

Mizar

10-27-2006, 07:27 PM

No, the TX2 SC sits where the OEM airbox is located. On the TS we engineered in enough room for the factory airbox.

I understand that. I did the install of my TX-2 myself, so I know that there is no room. My question is if the stock air box would satisfy the technical requirements of the TX-2 (in terms of, e.g., air flow or pressure drop or filtration efficiency etc.). Or, in other words: IF you had enough space in the engine bay, would you have left the stock air box in there with the TX-2?

Asbjorn@ESS

10-28-2006, 04:29 PM

I understand that. I did the install of my TX-2 myself, so I know that there is no room. My question is if the stock air box would satisfy the technical requirements of the TX-2 (in terms of, e.g., air flow or pressure drop or filtration efficiency etc.). Or, in other words: IF you had enough space in the engine bay, would you have left the stock air box in there with the TX-2?

Yes, absolutely. The oem box is by far the best compromise between filtration capacity, hydrolock prevention, cold air induction, MAF longevity (no oil mist passing through from a paper filter) and last but not least noise reduction + it's easy to change and get ahold of new filters.

We designed our new TS kit with room for the factory airbox for all of those reasons, and we even make 361rwhp SAE in TS2+ 8.5PSI with stock airbox on a M54B30!

stylinexpat

10-29-2006, 12:07 PM

Yes, absolutely. The oem box is by far the best compromise between filtration capacity, hydrolock prevention, cold air induction, MAF longevity (no oil mist passing through from a paper filter) and last but not least noise reduction + it's easy to change and get ahold of new filters.

We designed our new TS kit with room for the factory airbox for all of those reasons, and we even make 361rwhp SAE in TS2+ 8.5PSI with stock airbox on a M54B30!

Asbjorn, I'm quite happy with my car after tuning now thanks. I would have been happier though had you not forgotten to raise the idle 900 RPMS as promised to help reduce the chatter sound from the flywheel. How much more Torque would this new system produce over mine in the lower RPM'S and through out the RPM band? It seems like I have to work my car to accelerate. I drove my sisters Lexus IS350 and that car seems to take off without having to be worked as the Torque is high in the low RPMS.