Twin Supercharger?

[JNFIV]

hey have heard of a twin turbo obviously but is it possible to run a twin supercharger?

[BMW_Matt]

yes.
*Edit heres the link for a m5*
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=523079&highlight=twin+supercharged+m5
:drool::drool:

[A55A55IN]

http://www.esstuning.com/

[TxZHP04]

Depends on what you mean by "twin supercharger". Don't think you're referring to a "twin screw" supercharger which is merely a specific design of a single compressor. If you're talking about something like the link doofness provided, sure it's been done on V configuration motors a number of times by using a dedicated compressor for each cylinder bank. If you're talking about 2 compressors in series, I'm not aware of this ever being done. I can also think of a lot of reasons why this might not be an optimal design choice. There are so called "twin chargers" that run a turbo in series with a supercharger, VW actually has one in production.

[zeshon]

Superchargers add parasitic drag. In a V configuration, it isn't a bad practice, but in an I configuration, it really is a waste. You're better off with a larger blower, turbo, or twin charge.

[JNFIV]

k thanks for all the responses. i have a stage 2 AA supercharger in my car right now that has boosted me to like 330hp at the crank and about 315 at the wheels but i am looking for more power? was sorta a crazy question in the first place but any other ideas for more power? no budget limit all ideas are welcome

[TxZHP04]

Cams? Headers? Doubt you can increase boost much more without getting into more internals. Best bet is to contact AA and ask if there are any options. Honestly though, you're pretty close to the practical limit for a 325xi as it is.

[JNFIV]

yea thats what i was thinking but ics has a 328i turbo at 635hp so im trying to get up there lol.

[JNFIV]

Depends on what you mean by "twin supercharger". Don't think you're referring to a "twin screw" supercharger which is merely a specific design of a single compressor. If you're talking about something like the link doofness provided, sure it's been done on V configuration motors a number of times by using a dedicated compressor for each cylinder bank. If you're talking about 2 compressors in series, I'm not aware of this ever being done. I can also think of a lot of reasons why this might not be an optimal design choice. There are so called "twin chargers" that run a turbo in series with a supercharger, VW actually has one in production.

no ur right im not talking about the twin screw, i was just wondering about running two in a series. do u have anymore info on this "twin charger" thing from VW?

[TxZHP04]

no ur right im not talking about the twin screw, i was just wondering about running two in a series. do u have anymore info on this "twin charger" thing from VW?

Nothing that isn't available by searching the web.

If you're wanting to make really big numbers, your best bet would be to talk to ICS about a major custom turbo build. You're not going to get anywhere near 600 hp from an off the shelf kit with a few tweaks. For your goals, a twin charger would simply add unnecessary cost and complexity without a lot of benefit.

Better yet, if money is no object, trade the 325 for an M3 and send it to HPF.

[JNFIV]

lol that is always a possibility and hpf does some sick work. think ill give ics a call 2morrow and see wat they say

[nleksan]

You have an AA Stage 2 Supercharger kit now, so you already have a platform on which to further increase your engine's power. I have some ideas, as I'm always playing around with ways to get more power (but it's only in my head, as sadly, most of us can't afford to mod our cars the way we'd like, as fast as we'd like), but I can't say for sure that any of them are feasible/cost-effective/realistic/etc. I DO have experience with F/I BMW's, but the majority were E36 M3's, E34 M5's, E34 540i's, E39 M5's, and E39 540i's. I have put in over 24 hours of lap-time at Mid-Ohio in a fully-prepared Euro E36 M3 3.2L Coupe w/ 6-speed manual(the big mods: Lysholm Twin-Screw Supercharger 16psi, Forged and Lower Compression Pistons, Forged Rods/Crank, 3.5L Bore/Stroke, "Built" Block, Reinforced Valves/Valve-Springs, Custom-Ground Schrick Camshafts, Enormous Intercooler, Oil Cooler, 6-Point Roll Cage, Sparco Pole Position Seats, 8lb Flywheel w/ S3 Clutch, Momo Steering Wheel, Custom SSK, Fully Stripped Interior, Carbon Fiber Hood/Trunk/Front-Splitter/Rear-Diffuser/Sideskirts/Mirrors/Front-Fenders/Rear-Wing, BBS LM Wheels 18x9F 18x11R, Custom Flared Fenders, Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Tires 255F 295R, TCKline Race Coil-Overs, Solid Engine/Transmission Mounts, and MUCH more), and also in some less-prepared cars like a twin-supercharged 2001 540i M-Sport and a custom-turbo'd GT35R-based S38 in an E34 M5.

However, as UNBELIEVABLY fast as some of these cars were, and even though I've got seat time in them (in some of them, a lot of seat time), I didn't actually do the builds on any; some came to the company I worked for already built, and some the technicians built up themselves, and while I watched and eventually got to drive, my hands-on experiences were very limited. It was mostly "you want to do this and this, but not this; and this part does this for this reason"; that kind of thing. But I learned some good stuff, and I'll give you some help.


So, in your car, we've got:
330bhp
290ft/lbs-tq
2.5L Inline-6 (M54B25)
Supercharger (Centrifugal)
Intercooler
Active Autowerke DME Software
K&N "Cold Air" Intake
SuperSprint Exhaust
"Mild" Suspension Work
"Moderate" Tires
"Stock" Brakes

Looking at the list like that, it would seem that your car is "unbalanced" in terms of Go-Power/Stopping-Power/Turning-Power. Ideally, you should, before anything else, be upgrading to a coil-over-based suspension set-up, a "big-brake kit" by the manufacturer of your choice (6-Piston Front with 4-Piston Rear would suit), more chassis bracing via sway-bars and TMS Subframe reinforcement kit, and larger/wider wheels with thinner/wider/stickier rubber (19x8.5F 19x10R DPE R16 with Michelin PS2's, for example).

So let's say, we balance out your car. In addition to the previous list, we add the following (I'm also including what you already have listed in your sig that's useful):
DPE GT7 Wheels 19x8F and 19x10R
Michelin PS2 Tires 225/35R19 Front and 265/30R19 Rear
StopTech BBK 380mm 2-Piece Vented and Drilled Rotor 6-Piston Caliper Front, 355mm 2-Piece Vented and Drilled Rotor 4-Piston Caliper Rear
KW Variant 3 Coil-Overs w/ Adjustable Damping and Rebound Compression
Rogue Engineering Rear Shock Mounts
TMS Front Camber Plates
TMS Chromoly Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar
Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar
Hotchkis H-Sport Front and Rear Sway Bars
TMS Subframe Reinforcement Kit
Carbon Fiber (Painted) Vented-Hood/CSL-Trunk/Roof/GTR-Sides/Front-Splitters/Rear-Diffuser
Lightweight Racing Seats (under 18lbs; Sparco, Recaro, etc)
Lightweight 8LB Aluminum Flywheel
Stage 3 Kevlar Clutch
UUC Evo3 Short Shift Kit w/ DSSR

As you can see, it takes a LOT of parts to really "balance out" a supercharger, even at 330hp. With you wanting to crank it up higher, you NEED a stronger suspension, stiffer chassis, much better brakes, and to lose some weight. Otherwise, you're not taking advantage of what the blower has to offer, and you may be upgrading to more power unnecessarily. With the above modifications, 330hp will feel like 430hp would on your current set-up.

So, now we've got your ride handling like it's on rails, sticking to the pavement with much aplomb, braking hard enough to throw you through the windshield, and skinnier due to a light diet (maybe 150lbs lighter?). This is when you want to begin adding more power, as the car is now a platform that has been perfected with the idea of supercharged fun in mind. There are some easy, relative-inexpensive parts you seem to be missing, though, that could make a noticeable difference power-wise with your current set-up, and you won't even have to raise the boost!
- Headers (I am surprised you don't have any, as they are the perfect complementary mod to a supercharger. That, and they'll delete your 'cats, meaning a HUGE loss in flow-restriction. Should add another +15-20hp onto your current set-up, if you can achieve optimal backpressure)
- Cams (Camshafts tuned to your supercharger set-up can provide an enormous benefit in flow, both in and out of the cylinder. Better flow means better power, as we all know. Schrick is the most popular manufacturer for our cars, and makes some fantastic FI cams that can bring your blower to life. Expect up to +20-25hp with them installed, so long as you have adequate air-intake and a free flowing exhaust.)
- Bore/Stroke (There is a kit out there that will let you bore/stroke your engine to increase the displacement by as much as 349cc's. That would give you a 2.8 or 2.9 liter engine, which is a much better base to work with than a 2.5L; more displacement, bigger explosion, more force pushing the piston, more force getting transmitted to the wheels. As this kit should actually be a straight-up "stroker" kit, there wouldn't be as much weight added to the moving parts in the engine. You would get a lot more usable torque, without sacrificing your engine's ability to climb up the rev-range. Current set-up, a 2.5L to 2.9L stroker-kit would probably give you an extra +45hp and +50ft/lbs-tq, although my numbers may be off)

Those are your real options there, and while there are more, they mostly all involve adding boost and/or ways to allow the engine to accept more boost. I tried to give you alternatives; things to do that will give you power that adding more boost will only ADD to. A 2.9L stroked-M54B25 with an AA Stage-3 Supercharger Kit @ 13psi, I'm assuming, (Intercooled and with alcohol/meth injection) with Schrick Cams, Headers, SuperSprint "Straight Pipes", UUC Stage3 Clutch and 8lb Flywheel, StopTech BBK, FULLY-Adjustable Coil-Over-based suspension, 19" DPE wheels that are WIDE in the rear (needed to put down all the power), and topped off with carbon fiber bodywork and Recaro Racing Seats. You would have a fantastically unique 325, in ways that are all incredibly positive and awesome.

Now, the above is just all suggestions and ideas, some based on experience I have racing F/I BMWs, some based on all the time I spend here reading the boards, and some based purely on my hopes and aspirations (pun intended!) for my own car. You might like the ideas, you might now. Just remember: the fastest, most fun cars are the BEST BALANCED ones.

[E46Arash]

You have an AA Stage 2 Supercharger kit now, so you already have a platform on which to further increase your engine's power. I have some ideas, as I'm always playing around with ways to get more power (but it's only in my head, as sadly, most of us can't afford to mod our cars the way we'd like, as fast as we'd like), but I can't say for sure that any of them are feasible/cost-effective/realistic/etc. I DO have experience with F/I BMW's, but the majority were E36 M3's, E34 M5's, E34 540i's, E39 M5's, and E39 540i's. I have put in over 24 hours of lap-time at Mid-Ohio in a fully-prepared Euro E36 M3 3.2L Coupe w/ 6-speed manual(the big mods: Lysholm Twin-Screw Supercharger 16psi, Forged and Lower Compression Pistons, Forged Rods/Crank, 3.5L Bore/Stroke, "Built" Block, Reinforced Valves/Valve-Springs, Custom-Ground Schrick Camshafts, Enormous Intercooler, Oil Cooler, 6-Point Roll Cage, Sparco Pole Position Seats, 8lb Flywheel w/ S3 Clutch, Momo Steering Wheel, Custom SSK, Fully Stripped Interior, Carbon Fiber Hood/Trunk/Front-Splitter/Rear-Diffuser/Sideskirts/Mirrors/Front-Fenders/Rear-Wing, BBS LM Wheels 18x9F 18x11R, Custom Flared Fenders, Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Tires 255F 295R, TCKline Race Coil-Overs, Solid Engine/Transmission Mounts, and MUCH more), and also in some less-prepared cars like a twin-supercharged 2001 540i M-Sport and a custom-turbo'd GT35R-based S38 in an E34 M5.

However, as UNBELIEVABLY fast as some of these cars were, and even though I've got seat time in them (in some of them, a lot of seat time), I didn't actually do the builds on any; some came to the company I worked for already built, and some the technicians built up themselves, and while I watched and eventually got to drive, my hands-on experiences were very limited. It was mostly "you want to do this and this, but not this; and this part does this for this reason"; that kind of thing. But I learned some good stuff, and I'll give you some help.


So, in your car, we've got:
330bhp
290ft/lbs-tq
2.5L Inline-6 (M54B25)
Supercharger (Centrifugal)
Intercooler
Active Autowerke DME Software
K&N "Cold Air" Intake
SuperSprint Exhaust
"Mild" Suspension Work
"Moderate" Tires
"Stock" Brakes

Looking at the list like that, it would seem that your car is "unbalanced" in terms of Go-Power/Stopping-Power/Turning-Power. Ideally, you should, before anything else, be upgrading to a coil-over-based suspension set-up, a "big-brake kit" by the manufacturer of your choice (6-Piston Front with 4-Piston Rear would suit), more chassis bracing via sway-bars and TMS Subframe reinforcement kit, and larger/wider wheels with thinner/wider/stickier rubber (19x8.5F 19x10R DPE R16 with Michelin PS2's, for example).

So let's say, we balance out your car. In addition to the previous list, we add the following (I'm also including what you already have listed in your sig that's useful):
DPE GT7 Wheels 19x8F and 19x10R
Michelin PS2 Tires 225/35R19 Front and 265/30R19 Rear
StopTech BBK 380mm 2-Piece Vented and Drilled Rotor 6-Piston Caliper Front, 355mm 2-Piece Vented and Drilled Rotor 4-Piston Caliper Rear
KW Variant 3 Coil-Overs w/ Adjustable Damping and Rebound Compression
Rogue Engineering Rear Shock Mounts
TMS Front Camber Plates
TMS Chromoly Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar
Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar
Hotchkis H-Sport Front and Rear Sway Bars
TMS Subframe Reinforcement Kit
Carbon Fiber (Painted) Vented-Hood/CSL-Trunk/Roof/GTR-Sides/Front-Splitters/Rear-Diffuser
Lightweight Racing Seats (under 18lbs; Sparco, Recaro, etc)
Lightweight 8LB Aluminum Flywheel
Stage 3 Kevlar Clutch
UUC Evo3 Short Shift Kit w/ DSSR

As you can see, it takes a LOT of parts to really "balance out" a supercharger, even at 330hp. With you wanting to crank it up higher, you NEED a stronger suspension, stiffer chassis, much better brakes, and to lose some weight. Otherwise, you're not taking advantage of what the blower has to offer, and you may be upgrading to more power unnecessarily. With the above modifications, 330hp will feel like 430hp would on your current set-up.

So, now we've got your ride handling like it's on rails, sticking to the pavement with much aplomb, braking hard enough to throw you through the windshield, and skinnier due to a light diet (maybe 150lbs lighter?). This is when you want to begin adding more power, as the car is now a platform that has been perfected with the idea of supercharged fun in mind. There are some easy, relative-inexpensive parts you seem to be missing, though, that could make a noticeable difference power-wise with your current set-up, and you won't even have to raise the boost!
- Headers (I am surprised you don't have any, as they are the perfect complementary mod to a supercharger. That, and they'll delete your 'cats, meaning a HUGE loss in flow-restriction. Should add another +15-20hp onto your current set-up, if you can achieve optimal backpressure)
- Cams (Camshafts tuned to your supercharger set-up can provide an enormous benefit in flow, both in and out of the cylinder. Better flow means better power, as we all know. Schrick is the most popular manufacturer for our cars, and makes some fantastic FI cams that can bring your blower to life. Expect up to +20-25hp with them installed, so long as you have adequate air-intake and a free flowing exhaust.)
- Bore/Stroke (There is a kit out there that will let you bore/stroke your engine to increase the displacement by as much as 349cc's. That would give you a 2.8 or 2.9 liter engine, which is a much better base to work with than a 2.5L; more displacement, bigger explosion, more force pushing the piston, more force getting transmitted to the wheels. As this kit should actually be a straight-up "stroker" kit, there wouldn't be as much weight added to the moving parts in the engine. You would get a lot more usable torque, without sacrificing your engine's ability to climb up the rev-range. Current set-up, a 2.5L to 2.9L stroker-kit would probably give you an extra +45hp and +50ft/lbs-tq, although my numbers may be off)

Those are your real options there, and while there are more, they mostly all involve adding boost and/or ways to allow the engine to accept more boost. I tried to give you alternatives; things to do that will give you power that adding more boost will only ADD to. A 2.9L stroked-M54B25 with an AA Stage-3 Supercharger Kit @ 13psi, I'm assuming, (Intercooled and with alcohol/meth injection) with Schrick Cams, Headers, SuperSprint "Straight Pipes", UUC Stage3 Clutch and 8lb Flywheel, StopTech BBK, FULLY-Adjustable Coil-Over-based suspension, 19" DPE wheels that are WIDE in the rear (needed to put down all the power), and topped off with carbon fiber bodywork and Recaro Racing Seats. You would have a fantastically unique 325, in ways that are all incredibly positive and awesome.

Now, the above is just all suggestions and ideas, some based on experience I have racing F/I BMWs, some based on all the time I spend here reading the boards, and some based purely on my hopes and aspirations (pun intended!) for my own car. You might like the ideas, you might now. Just remember: the fastest, most fun cars are the BEST BALANCED ones.

wut he said... lol

[freerider]

We need Mert to design a 2000hp twin supercharged system :rofl:

[Deah7]

You have an AA Stage 2 Supercharger kit now, so you already have a platform on which to further increase your engine's power. I have some ideas, as I'm always playing around with ways to get more power (but it's only in my head, as sadly, most of us can't afford to mod our cars the way we'd like, as fast as we'd like), but I can't say for sure that any of them are feasible/cost-effective/realistic/etc. I DO have experience with F/I BMW's, but the majority were E36 M3's, E34 M5's, E34 540i's, E39 M5's, and E39 540i's. I have put in over 24 hours of lap-time at Mid-Ohio in a fully-prepared Euro E36 M3 3.2L Coupe w/ 6-speed manual(the big mods: Lysholm Twin-Screw Supercharger 16psi, Forged and Lower Compression Pistons, Forged Rods/Crank, 3.5L Bore/Stroke, "Built" Block, Reinforced Valves/Valve-Springs, Custom-Ground Schrick Camshafts, Enormous Intercooler, Oil Cooler, 6-Point Roll Cage, Sparco Pole Position Seats, 8lb Flywheel w/ S3 Clutch, Momo Steering Wheel, Custom SSK, Fully Stripped Interior, Carbon Fiber Hood/Trunk/Front-Splitter/Rear-Diffuser/Sideskirts/Mirrors/Front-Fenders/Rear-Wing, BBS LM Wheels 18x9F 18x11R, Custom Flared Fenders, Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Tires 255F 295R, TCKline Race Coil-Overs, Solid Engine/Transmission Mounts, and MUCH more), and also in some less-prepared cars like a twin-supercharged 2001 540i M-Sport and a custom-turbo'd GT35R-based S38 in an E34 M5.

However, as UNBELIEVABLY fast as some of these cars were, and even though I've got seat time in them (in some of them, a lot of seat time), I didn't actually do the builds on any; some came to the company I worked for already built, and some the technicians built up themselves, and while I watched and eventually got to drive, my hands-on experiences were very limited. It was mostly "you want to do this and this, but not this; and this part does this for this reason"; that kind of thing. But I learned some good stuff, and I'll give you some help.


So, in your car, we've got:
330bhp
290ft/lbs-tq
2.5L Inline-6 (M54B25)
Supercharger (Centrifugal)
Intercooler
Active Autowerke DME Software
K&N "Cold Air" Intake
SuperSprint Exhaust
"Mild" Suspension Work
"Moderate" Tires
"Stock" Brakes

Looking at the list like that, it would seem that your car is "unbalanced" in terms of Go-Power/Stopping-Power/Turning-Power. Ideally, you should, before anything else, be upgrading to a coil-over-based suspension set-up, a "big-brake kit" by the manufacturer of your choice (6-Piston Front with 4-Piston Rear would suit), more chassis bracing via sway-bars and TMS Subframe reinforcement kit, and larger/wider wheels with thinner/wider/stickier rubber (19x8.5F 19x10R DPE R16 with Michelin PS2's, for example).

So let's say, we balance out your car. In addition to the previous list, we add the following (I'm also including what you already have listed in your sig that's useful):
DPE GT7 Wheels 19x8F and 19x10R
Michelin PS2 Tires 225/35R19 Front and 265/30R19 Rear
StopTech BBK 380mm 2-Piece Vented and Drilled Rotor 6-Piston Caliper Front, 355mm 2-Piece Vented and Drilled Rotor 4-Piston Caliper Rear
KW Variant 3 Coil-Overs w/ Adjustable Damping and Rebound Compression
Rogue Engineering Rear Shock Mounts
TMS Front Camber Plates
TMS Chromoly Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar
Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar
Hotchkis H-Sport Front and Rear Sway Bars
TMS Subframe Reinforcement Kit
Carbon Fiber (Painted) Vented-Hood/CSL-Trunk/Roof/GTR-Sides/Front-Splitters/Rear-Diffuser
Lightweight Racing Seats (under 18lbs; Sparco, Recaro, etc)
Lightweight 8LB Aluminum Flywheel
Stage 3 Kevlar Clutch
UUC Evo3 Short Shift Kit w/ DSSR

As you can see, it takes a LOT of parts to really "balance out" a supercharger, even at 330hp. With you wanting to crank it up higher, you NEED a stronger suspension, stiffer chassis, much better brakes, and to lose some weight. Otherwise, you're not taking advantage of what the blower has to offer, and you may be upgrading to more power unnecessarily. With the above modifications, 330hp will feel like 430hp would on your current set-up.

So, now we've got your ride handling like it's on rails, sticking to the pavement with much aplomb, braking hard enough to throw you through the windshield, and skinnier due to a light diet (maybe 150lbs lighter?). This is when you want to begin adding more power, as the car is now a platform that has been perfected with the idea of supercharged fun in mind. There are some easy, relative-inexpensive parts you seem to be missing, though, that could make a noticeable difference power-wise with your current set-up, and you won't even have to raise the boost!
- Headers (I am surprised you don't have any, as they are the perfect complementary mod to a supercharger. That, and they'll delete your 'cats, meaning a HUGE loss in flow-restriction. Should add another +15-20hp onto your current set-up, if you can achieve optimal backpressure)
- Cams (Camshafts tuned to your supercharger set-up can provide an enormous benefit in flow, both in and out of the cylinder. Better flow means better power, as we all know. Schrick is the most popular manufacturer for our cars, and makes some fantastic FI cams that can bring your blower to life. Expect up to +20-25hp with them installed, so long as you have adequate air-intake and a free flowing exhaust.)
- Bore/Stroke (There is a kit out there that will let you bore/stroke your engine to increase the displacement by as much as 349cc's. That would give you a 2.8 or 2.9 liter engine, which is a much better base to work with than a 2.5L; more displacement, bigger explosion, more force pushing the piston, more force getting transmitted to the wheels. As this kit should actually be a straight-up "stroker" kit, there wouldn't be as much weight added to the moving parts in the engine. You would get a lot more usable torque, without sacrificing your engine's ability to climb up the rev-range. Current set-up, a 2.5L to 2.9L stroker-kit would probably give you an extra +45hp and +50ft/lbs-tq, although my numbers may be off)

Those are your real options there, and while there are more, they mostly all involve adding boost and/or ways to allow the engine to accept more boost. I tried to give you alternatives; things to do that will give you power that adding more boost will only ADD to. A 2.9L stroked-M54B25 with an AA Stage-3 Supercharger Kit @ 13psi, I'm assuming, (Intercooled and with alcohol/meth injection) with Schrick Cams, Headers, SuperSprint "Straight Pipes", UUC Stage3 Clutch and 8lb Flywheel, StopTech BBK, FULLY-Adjustable Coil-Over-based suspension, 19" DPE wheels that are WIDE in the rear (needed to put down all the power), and topped off with carbon fiber bodywork and Recaro Racing Seats. You would have a fantastically unique 325, in ways that are all incredibly positive and awesome.

Now, the above is just all suggestions and ideas, some based on experience I have racing F/I BMWs, some based on all the time I spend here reading the boards, and some based purely on my hopes and aspirations (pun intended!) for my own car. You might like the ideas, you might now. Just remember: the fastest, most fun cars are the BEST BALANCED ones.

One of the best responses I have ever read:clap::thumbsup:

[TxZHP04]

One of the best responses I have ever read:clap::thumbsup:

Certainly one of the longest if nothing else....

[Penn]

Sure, cut the bonnet and slap 2 or 3 of them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XJcjHnzWDk

[E46Arash]

Sure, cut the bonnet and slap 2 or 3 of them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XJcjHnzWDk

"This is Xzibit from pimp my ride. So we heard you like superchargers, so we put a supercharger on your supercharger... so you can be supercharged while your supercharged!" :P

[ctsvkilla]

We need Mert to design a 2000hp twin supercharged system :rofl:

yea sure, if you want to get ripped off

[UrineMachine]

It is possible but no there is no point.