Maximum PSI Stage 2 Turbo Build | SMGII | BW 3.5" Race | Zima Motorsports
Post #1 & #2: INSTALL PROCESS
Post #3: DYNO GRAPHS & VIDEOS
Post #4: POST-INSTALL VIDEOS
Post #5: REVIEW & TESTIMONIAL
To my knowledge, this is one of the very few documented Max PSI turbo builds. I know there are quite a few kits out there, but no one has publicly posted anything about their results, testimonials, or reviews (good or bad); which seems odd to me. However, this is the first supercharged to turbo build documented on the forums!!! :parrot: :dance:
As you all know, SMG guys have been plagued with issues when surpassing 500lbs torque or so; i.e. car shutting off when decelerating, hesitation in between shifts at wide open throttle, and rough idle. All of which are unacceptable. These were the key factors that had me wait MONTHS before I pulled the trigger. The moment I heard the great news that Nick G from Technique Tuning had solved the puzzling issue, I called up Mike at Max PSI and officially made the purchase! :thumbsup2: -With a few tweaks of course. I opted for the PT6466 Turbo over the 6266, a 3.5" electronically controlled dump valve, and a 3.5" intake.
I will start off by saying that Mike's customer service has been nothing but Grade A! He responded to all of my annoying e-mails (70 total back and forth) prior to me even purchasing a kit from him. Also, even after the purchase he was always a phone call away to offer tips on how to install a part or to verify if a device is running properly; even when he was 'off the clock.' That says something because let's face it, most issues ironically occur after business hours, which sets you back a day (basically) because you have to wait until the next morning to get an answer. :hattip:
Before I went turbo, I had an Active Autowerke Stage 2+ Renegade kit utilizing the Rotrex C38-91 blower (I'll be posting this for sale soon); I was making good power, ~520rwhp. I had a special set of pulleys made by AA so that I can run more boost, but I never got around to install them. Right when I was about to, a forum member (FrankensteinM3) was tackling nearly the same build with the same size pulleys. He was hitting 20-21psi and making nearly ~600rwhp!!! BUT, like I said earlier, at the time there was no SMG fix so he was plagued with all the issues mentioned above. This is where the debate came; do I want to build my motor and over-rev the blower to hit 600rwhp or do I want to keep my block stock and turbo it so my power potential/upgradability is endless? I went turbo because, let's face it, they are the future and DAT TORQUE FIGURE DOE?!?!? :drool:
Maximum PSI Stage 2 Parts:
Stock DME Technique Tuning Turbo Software
Maximum PSI Twin Scroll Tubular Exhaust Manifold (Ceramic Coated)
Precision 6466 Twin Scroll Turbo
Maximum PSI Aluminum Intake Manifold
Tial MVR Wastegate
Synapse Diverter Valve
Front Mount Intercooler & Hardware
MAF Sensor & Harness
Air Temp Sensor
Injectors & Connectors
Fuel Rail Hardware
Walbro 485 Fuel Pump Assembly
3.5" Intake Pipe
Green Filters USA Filter
2.5" Stainless Steel Hot Side Charge Piping
3" Stainless Steel Cold Side Charge Piping
All Silicone Couplers & Clamps Required
Check Valve For Evap System
Turbo Oil Feed & Drain Assembly
Oil Pan Drill Bit, Tap, & Template
Full 3" Stainless Steel Downpipe w/ Catless Exhaust
3.5" Electronic Dump Valve
Stainless Steel Wastegate Tube w/ Mounting Hardware
Turbo Mounting Hardware & Gasket
Header Mounting Hardware & Gaskets
Valve Cover Breather Hose & Clamps
Motor Mount, Mount Arm, & Hardware
Intake Manifold Brace and Hardware
Oil Pan Vent Plug Hardware
IVC Hose, Clamps, & Fittings
Washer Bottle Pump Tank, & Assembly w/ Hardware
SMG Relocation Kit & Hardware (if necessary)
Brake Duct Block & Hardware
Vacuum Hose & Fittings
ECU Shipping Bag
Bumper Weather Stripping
THE KIT HAS ARRIVED!!!:
-The packaging was precisely tapered off into squares separating all of the 'little' parts. Each part was labeled so you knew exactly what you were looking at and each wire was labeled to limit any confusion as to where each goes; i.e. brown goes to black, or blue goes to white. I thought I was going to receive a typical box of parts and would have to separate each piece before tackling the install. The install instructions came pre-loaded onto a flash drive and some of the parts had their own sheet of directions taped to them. I will say that the directions do need some revisions/updating, but overall they were clear.
-As described above in my opening statements, I opted for the PT6466 turbo over the 6266, a 3.5" electronically controlled dump valve, and an upgraded intake to 3.5". You will see more of these later as the install progresses.
SUPERCHARGER KIT NEEDS TO COME OFF:
MANIFOLD, HEADERS, SUPERCHARGER, INTERCOOLERS, & FUEL RAIL REMOVED:
-This is the 'easy' part of the build since taking parts off is always much easier than putting them on. This can be done within an hour or so if you are mechanically inclined.
When we pulled the old spark plugs out, we noticed that they were blackened due to running rich. Because of that we were advised to replace the valve cover gasket since we were in there already. The inside of the motor looked super healthy and sludge-free, though. I guess I can thank oil changes at 5k intervals. Woot Woot!
The Max PSI Stage 2 kit utilizes the OEM fuel system, which I do not have since I have the 'upgraded' AA stage 2 fuel system utilizing -6AN lines and fittings. Rather than opening up a can of headaches, Mike said it was okay for me to keep the fuel lines intact. This will be a benefit later on for when he releases the E85 tune. I also opted to 'upgrade' to the Radium Engineering Fuel Rail and re-route the fuel lines to the back of the fuel rail in order to make room for the fuel pressure gauge on the front of the fuel rail. This is truly a beautiful piece! Also, took the time to install the 60# fuel injectors; they popped right in!
This kit comes with a Walbro 485 fuel pump that sits in the tank. We had to remove the Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump and drop this one in. Since my fuel pump housing is already wired with relays (thanks to AA fuel system), this took no time at all.
We also took the liberty of installing the thick intercooler since it is literally the easiest thing to install. I noticed that I will need to locate a new kevlar bumper support since my old one had to be cut in order to fit the AA intercooler.
Also, we test fitted the Max PSI manifold and realized it sits a lot 'deeper' than the AA manifold, which causes an issue with the fuel pressure regulator location since it is bolted right under the throttle bodies. We decided to reroute the FPR into the 'drug bin' since it's an open location that is easy to get to.
INSTALLED THE INTERCOOLER:
REMOVED THE AA FUEL RAIL AND INSTALLED THE RADIUM ENGINEERING FUEL RAIL:
RELOCATED FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR INTO DRUG BIN:
DROPPED IN THE WALBRO FUEL PUMP:
Today we took the liberty of installing the new engine mount with associated bracket, exhaust manifold, turbo housing, PT466 Turbo, downpipe, Tial Wastegate, and associated boost lines. We also took the time to test-fit the section one piping since it will need cutting in order to fit the Bimmerworld single 3.5" race exhaust I have. The section 1 from Max PSI splits into 2 as if it were bolting up to an OEM-like system, but the BW 3.5" Race exhaust is a single pipe all the way to the muffler. With this kit, you will have to tap into the oil pan for the oil feed lines to the turbo. I forgot to snap pictures of this, so check back later for updates.
NOTE: I had the Vibratechnic motor mounts installed prior to this, and you CAN keep the driver's side one in place if you don't want to revert back to stock. This won't cause any fitment issues for any of the associated turbo parts.
The turbo and turbo housing were an absolute NIGHTMARE to install because of the super tight location the turbo sits in; I wish we could run top mounted turbos, but without all the fabricating. Mike supplies this custom fabricated wrench (you'll thank him later) to help with installing the turbo, but there is one allen wrench type fitting facing the motor at the top of the turbo housing that is an absolute nightmare to get to. This is where you start to look like all these girls on Instagram taking selfies in the mirror with their backs arched in awkward positions and their hands in locations that don't make sense.
Now that the FPR is out of the way, we took the liberty of installing the manifold (with new MAF), intercooler piping, 3.5" intake with filter, SMG tank, deleted the OEM windshield washer fluid tank and used the universal tank that comes with this kit in the 'drug bin', Synapse Engineering Diverter Valve, and associated vacuum lines.
These parts were extremely easy to install since they are literally "bolt on." For this particular kit, the intake goes through the motor mount (super tight fit) and sits right behind the brake duct (if you're running an OEM bumper). Because of that, you will have to take out your OEM windshield washer tank and use the universal one that comes with the kit; it will be installed in the 'drug bin'. On the HPF kits, the intake goes up the side of the manifold/motor and sits where the secondary air pump is located, which allows you to keep your OEM windshield washer tank. At first, I opted for the HPF route since Mike is more than capable of custom fabricating any pieces you want, but he talked me out of it. It just didn't make sense to run a 2.5" intake right next to the motor (super hot), which basically means the turbo is sucking from a straw. With the intake at the bottom by the air duct, you are free to use 3.5" piping and a bigger intake filter right where there is an extreme amount of airflow. I still kind of want to go the HPF intake route, but I'll explain that in a bit.
Since this kit is using an OEM DME tune, the blowoff valve sits on the driver's side intercooler piping. On other kits using AEM Infinity or Pro-EFI the blowoff valve sits on the manifold, but I was told that isn't possible due to the OEM DME being used. Something about the blowoff valve being after the MAF and the DME not liking that. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Back to the intercooler piping install I mentioned above. The driver's side piping goes straight up to the manifold, simple. The passenger's side piping goes straight to the bottom of the turbo, simple. However, this pipe sits EXTREMELY low. So low that you have to cut a piece out of the tray that sits under the motor. This is not for the stanced-out guys or the guys tucking wheels. This is why I mentioned the HPF intake location. If the intake goes straight up off the turbo into the engine bay, you could run this intercooler pipe through the motor mount allowing you to lower the car without any worries; you also won't have to cut the undertray. I am still considering this route, but at this point I want to get the car up and running first.
If you are going from a supercharger kit to a turbo kit, you will need to source some OEM 6-rib pulleys and tensioners. For a lot of supercharged guys, you were required to change everything to an 8-rib setup. You will for sure need an OEM water pump pulley, crank pulley, and alternator pulley. Since you're in there, you might as well get new tensioners too. The alternator was the hardest to source. Every dealer in the country, even Germany, is on backorder for this part. I got lucky and found a local guy to source this part for me.
MANIFOLD IS ON WITH THE MAF AND SMG TANK:
INTERCOOLER PIPING IS ON WITH SYNAPSE BOV:
INTAKE IS ON WITH THAT 'SUPER LOW' INTERCOOLER PIPE I MENTIONED:
See how the intercooler piping goes 'under' everything? Probably the only thing I don't like about this kit, which I might have to change.
The last pieces of the kit are going on today; the Max PSI section 1, dump valve (with wiring), Turbosmart eBoost gauge (with wiring and vacuum hoses), and the 'key' which locks the sport button into the off position; will explain this below.
As I stated the other day, the Max PSI kit assumes you are using an OEM-like exhaust system. I am running the Bimmerworld 3.5" single race exhaust. Because of this, the part that splits into 2 right after the dump valve/secondary 02 has to be cut and a single 3" or 3.5" pipe needs to be welded into place.
The Turbosmart eBoost gauge gets hooked up to the vacuum lines by the ECU where the brake booster is. The wiring that comes with it comes with a sheet that tells you exactly where each color gets wired to. The hardest part was finding a location for this device haha. I already have 4 gauges taking up the middle AC vents, so I want this one to be somewhere hidden like in the footwell somewhere. We made a custom bracket so that it faces up towards the driver (me) for easy glances or setting changes. I decided to put the vacuum solenoid that comes with the eBoost gauge into the 'drug bin' bolted to a custom bracket right next to the FPR. I will have them make me a carbon fiber cap for that area so you can't see any hoses or wiring.
The 'key', as I mentioned above, is to lock the Sport button into off mode. When you turn the key, it unlocks the sport button so that you may press it when you're running MS109; at which point you're in full-blown race/kill mode. This turns up all the settings and whatnot, which wouldn't go very well if you were running pump fuel. The key/lock is to prevent someone from getting in and freely pressing the sport button; i.e. valet or careless friends.
The exhaust was super easy to install since it just bolts right up via v-band clamps. The welding took the longest for reasons I explained above. We wired the dump valve to a switch that sits in the little square coin holder right under the armrest. I originally wanted to put it somewhere in the ashtray area, but the wiring behind the switch makes it too deep, which doesn't work since the ashtray piece is super slim. No big deal. I like the stealth idea anyways.
The only thing left to do is to put in the ECU in order to prime the fuel system to ~72.5psi with vacuum hose disconnected, reset the adaptations, and any stored error codes. If everything checks out then it's time to start putting everything back on like the undertrays, glovebox, center console, driver's side footwell, front bumper, and etc. I will have an update for you guys tomorrow most likely.
BEAUTIFULLY CRAFTED MAX PSI SECTION 1:
TURBOSMART EBOOST SOLENOID:
TURBOSMART EBOOST GAUGE:
TURBOSMART EBOOST GAUGE AND RACE FUEL KEY:
Today we put the final touches on the car. We fixed that low intercooler pipe problem I mentioned the other day as per Mike's instructions. Now it sits more flush with the undertray and gives us about an inch or two more clearance; I'll see when the car gets lowered from the lift. The metal undertray still needs to be cut just a little bit in order to fit the rubber elbow on this pipe; a lot better than it was before though.
When putting the metal undetray on, we noticed that it touches the Tial wastegate so we had to cut a small square out of said undertray and called it a day.
When putting the front bumper back on (CSL Replica) the air duct is too deep, so it needed to be shaved/cut down due to the intercooler piping being in the way. Also, the middle part needs to be shaved/cut in order to fit the extremely thick intercooler. These modifications are expected with any other kit as well, again, no big deal.
Also, We hooked up the oil catch can while capping off the nipple for the oil feed lines on the intake pipe. I like the idea of a catch can better than oil sitting in a pipe in a location where I have to lift the car to drain the oil. And also, the other day I mentioned we were going to make a bracket to hold up the intake so that it doesn't vibrate when driving. This gives us a little more clearance to raise the intercooler pipe as well.
INTERCOOLER PIPE SITTING LEVEL:
TIAL WASTEGATE UNDERTRAY CUTOUT:
CSL BUMPER AIR DUCT INTAKE HOLE:
OIL CATCH CAN:
INTAKE BRACKET WITH NIPPLE CAP:
The car is officially put together and finished!!! I have a couple videos of the car idling and revving with the valve open and closed that I will be posting up later tonight. I plan on doing dynos sometime next week or after Easter depending on my schedule.
Since this kit is more than capable of hitting 10's, I figured it would be a good idea to have a roll cage fabricated now rather than later. The cage is a 'one-off' cage using Chromoly welded to the chassis and rear struts. Can you say no flex?
The cage should be finished by this weekend, but won't be painted for a couple weeks since I'll be doing some pre-scheduled track events.
Tear down is complete:
Starting to bend and weld the tubing to the frame:http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/o...pse2199087.jpg
June 18, 2014:
The plates for the rear towers have been made! Look at how clean they look!
June 20, 2014:
The roll cage was finally coming together quickly. It has been installed and is now fully functional!!! It still needs to be painted and the carpeting in the trunk needs to be put in, but that will be done after paint. Also, I am doing a custom carbon fiber rear seat delete :)
June 21, 2014:
The UUC Dual Flywheel and clutch have been put in! HUGE upgrade over the HPF (South Bend) Stage 2 imho. Since the dual flywheels are aluminum (lightweight) and ~8lbs lighter than the OEM flywheel you will hear a slight humming sound when cruising, but too me it isn't too bad. When you're building a street/race car you have to expect that. In my defense, I have 40lbs of sound deadening removed form the car and I didn't have my rear seat delete installed so it was bare metal in the car when I was testing it out; the volume of the sound should diminish when everything goes back in.
NOTE (UPDATE): I got rid of this clutch due to the fact that it was improperly assmebled by UUC. Rob would not issue me a refund, he simply told me that I was "losing traction and didn't know it." My symptoms were as follows: When shifting up to the next gear the car would rev-up a couple hundred RPM before dropping and finally catching the gear. This obviously is a waste of time and kills any boost you would alreadyd built. When shifting down the car would hover at whatever RPM I am trying to shift out of (almost like it's thinking) and then finally catch after a couple seconds. This is unacceptable! I really wanted to keep this clutch because it did feel awesome besides the hesitation between shifts. Thanks to Mike at Max PSI, I got my money back and went with the South Bend Stage 3 Daily clutch and couldn't be happier!
June 23, 2014:
For some reason (even when I was supercharged) I always wanted to run a differential brace to help prevent the bolts from backing out (this is a known issue with these cars), so I had one made like the SAAD Racing differential brace minus the big ass logo. Does this do anything? I don't know, but it's nice to have a piece of mind; only time will tell.
May 3, 2014:
I finally got a chance to get to the dyno to do some pulls and make sure everything is running properly. I drove the car all weekend and put on about 300 miles or so, plus dyno pulls, and then drove it some more and she behaved WONDERFULLY!! I am super happy with this kit, but I'll save that for the testimonial part of this thread.
The car makes GREAT power, and that torque figure is just orgasmic! Unfortunately, I could only do 93 octane pump gas pulls, but I promise I will have MS109 pulls within the coming weeks AND updated pump gas pulls due to the minor issue I experienced described below...
If you look at the boost graph, you'll see that the line peaks really early in the RPM range (~4,500RPM) and then the eBoost gauge catches it and lowers the pressure. This should not be happening like it is. Basically, the eBoost gauge catches the overboost and lowers the pressure to a 'safe' psi.
I spoke to Mike on the phone and he said it's most likely because the exhaust I am running (BW 3.5") is so free flowing that I need to set the SP1 setting on the gauge to a lower number; Remember, all of their dynos and eBoost settings were using catalytic converts AND an OEM exhaust, which I clearly do not have either. The SP1 (bG1) is the target boost you are reaching for; in this case on pump gas it is 9psi. The higher the number, the higher the boost and vice versa. Also, I need to change the GP1 setting, which is the sensitivity for how quickly the wastegate reacts to changes in boost pressure. In this case, I need to lower/raise it until I reach the desired boost pressure of 9psi.
I know this sounds confusing, but it really isn't. Here are a couple videos from TurboSmart explaining and showing you what I am talking about***********:
Once I sort this issue out, I will be hitting and maintaining a 9psi boost level throughout the RPM band, which will allow me to hit over 500rwhp and even more torque on pump gas! :)
BISH IS STRAPPED DOWN:
Here is the dyno graph of the 4 pulls I made. The dyno used was a dynojet:
-Pulls 2 and 4 were with the dump valve OPEN. Notice the HUGE power increase. Once I get the eBoost settings right, the numbers will go up across the board.
June 6, 2014
If you read my paragraph above and the dyno chart, you will see that I was having overboosting issues. Well, after some consulting with Mike and some trial error I finally got the TurboSmart eBoost 2 gauge to hold boost at ~9psi throughout the RPM band. Now the car never stops pulling and feels a lot better!
NOTE: These settings assume you are running a 'free-flow' exhaust system. In this case: no cats and 3.5" unrestricted exhaust piping all the way to the mufflers.
eBoost 2 Pump Gas Settings:
eBoost 2 MS109 Settings:
November 18, 2014:
Without further ado, here are the dyno graphs:
NOTE: The stock-market-like spikes are due to spark blowout. I've been advised to lower the spark plug gap to .022 to prevent this. Should be a simple fix. Considering we made great power with this small issue, I am guesstimating 15-20rwhp and 10-15lbs torque more with a clean spark. Stay tuned for updates.
Conditions: 71 Degrees Fahrenheit. 19% Humidity. 735 feet above sea level.
Video of the car on the dyno spitting flames:
I am EXTREMELY happy with this to say the least!
My official review:
Let me start off by saying that Mike's customer service is the best I've dealt with the automotive industry. He's responded to every e-mail prior to my purchasing of the kit. We exchanged 75-100 e-mails from November 2013 until January 2014 when I finally pulled the trigger due to the fact that the SMG issues have been resolved (as discussed in post #1). I know I was probably being super annoying asking a million and one questions, but pulling the trigger of $12k on a kit that had issues with SMG for so long, you'd have to expect that; Mike showed no signs of being annoyed, though.
The kit came packaged EXTREMELY well as you can see from post #1 pictures. Each part came individually packaged and labeled. Every part was meticulously placed and wrapped with bubble wrap as to prevent damage. Very impressed to say the least.
I will say that the instructions for installing this kit need work. There's a few steps that, after talking with Mike, have changed, but the instructions do not take that into account. This becomes extremely frustrating because you know you're installing the parts correctly, but the instructions say otherwise. Also, the eBoost settings (for Stage 2+) are slightly different for every car, so don't take the numbers given in the Excel spreadsheet as the 'end-all' figures. You will have to tweak them while driving or when on the dyno so you hit your desired boost; the exhaust system you're running plays a big role in these figures. The more free flowing your exhaust (especially if running a dump valve), the more of a difference there will be with the numbers you will need to input.
NOTE: These instructions assume you're going from a NA setup to this particular turbo setup. If you're going from a supercharger kit to this kit like I did, you will need to make some changes prior to tackling the install of this turbo kit. As you know, the supercharger kits change the pulley setup and re-route a few reservoirs and lines. This makes the directions a little more confusing, but nothing crazy if you know where everything is.
Fitment was on point! The hardest part is fitting the turbo/turbo housing to the manifold under the car. You need to have long skinny fingers and patience to get the top bolt facing the motor. Mike includes a custom wrench to help with this. Without this wrench I don't see how it is physically possible to tighten that bolt without have the motor removed from the car.
One thing that didn't fit, was the intercooler piping going to the turbo. As you can see from the pictures, it sits a little too low so you have to cut the metal tray under the car to accommodate it and the wastegate. Not a big deal. I'm sure I can get it to fit better, but for now it's fine.
Quality of kit:
The welds on the downpipe, section 1, manifold, intake pipe, and exhaust manifold are top notch. You can see above where I posted pictures of the closeups.
Bottomline, for $12k this is definitely a great value. Why anyone would go the supercharger route at this point is beyond me :p
Big Big thumbs up to YOU, Maximum PSI, & Nick G. !!!
I'm looking forward to a great Dyno session.
What Diameter pipe are you using for your charge pipe?
well I think I may be going max PSI as well. I just would like to use the HPF intake mani instead for the clearner set up.
I am considering the same thing, but note you will have to close off the BOV location on the HPF manifold and you'll have to fabricate a bung for the MAF sensor since it's located in the pipe welded to the manifold on the MAX PSI manifold. Also, there's a nipple on the bottom of the Max PSI manifold for vacuum; I don't know if the HPF manifold has the same thing, if not, it will have to be re-routed somewhere.
Enjoy in good health.
Maxpsi, keep up the good work.
Very well done and documented. Welcome to the turbo M3 club
Look up Driven Innovations.
Yet they still hold up on 700hp builds, so I'm not sure what your point is. I want a smoother look in the engine bay and I'm only going for just under 5 so I think I'll be ok. You mention the quality of the casting as if it was actually bad when its not.
My point was that there's nothing wrong with the Max PSI manifold, it just looks different.
For those contemplating swapping out the intake manifold, my suggestion is DON'T. The kit was tuned for the hardware that is currently released. Changing such an important part as the intake manifold could have adverse affects on the tuning and power output.
If you want more possible problems though, then go right ahead :pimpin:
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