DIY: Auto <---> 5 Speed Swap Lots of Pixs!!!
I’m not going to list every single tool and socket I used, but the tools you will need should be a decent socket set and have a variety of types and sizes.
First off I would like to thank edsmax for swinging by and checking out my progress and lending a hand, Blackspec for helping me via PM with my several questions, DankBMW for listing most of the parts and info and xmltok for providing the hookup to start the car without the automatic transmission
Overall the parts cost me ~ $2900 (But please keep in mind that, that included 2 - 5 speed transmissions, If I hadn’t bought the first transmission lot it would have only cost me ~ $2350. Most of the parts I bought brand new at www.circlebmw.com
I did this myself and with the help and tips from some members online that I kept exchanging emails and PM’s with. Overall my car was sitting for 3 months even though the install only took about 14 days (I had to wait between the weeks that it would rain all week and days I had off from work to actually work on the car. Anyways here is the pretty much complete parts list, some aren’t included because I went aftermarket for some things such as UUC SSK + DSSR, Clutch Stop, and Clutch Line.
5 speed Manual Transmission - $600
Driveshaft - $100
Flywheel - $550 came with my first transmission + Resurfacing - $60
New Clutch kit (Comes with Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, Clutch release bearing and new pilot bearing) - $324.70 (That’s with overnight shipping since I was impatient and couldn’t wait)
Because I went aftermarket on these parts I don’t have the OEM part #’s listed:
UUC SSK + DSSR - $345
UUC Clutch Stop - $20
UUC Clutch line - $29
UUC Transmission mounts - $55
Miscellaneous Brand new OEM BMW parts and fluids – approximately $816.30
Here are all my receipts:
Clutch Alignment Tool
Socket Extensions (about 30” of them)
Good Torque Wrench
Large Adjustable Wrench
Metric sockets ranging in sizes from 7mm to 22mm (Some deep sockets in particular 13mm socket for exhaust bolts)
E - sockets (The female star sockets for transmission bell housing to engine housing, you will need 3 different sizes)
Blow Torch w/ mapping gas (Not necessary but may come in handy for really rusted exhaust bolts like mine)
Get the car on ramps and or jack stands (I personally had the front on ramps and the rear on jack stands 2 - 3 ton craftsman jack stands) and put your ebrake on.
Disconnect the battery (I recommend that if you have power seats to either remove the front drivers seat or remove the seat bolts first. This way you have easy access to installing the clutch lines under the carpet and new clutch/brake pedals when the time comes. You will be able to lie down making it must easier and a little more comfortable)
Removing exhaust, I’ll be honest between this and removing the auto transmission, were the most aggravating maybe due to the fact doing this on a slanted dirt driveway with only 13 – 14 inches of clearance. Anyways start by supporting the exhaust with jack stands. I had one at the exhaust manifold, one at the center of the exhaust system and the last at the muffler.
Now start by removing the exhaust bolts, I started at the rear at the 2 hangers with 2 - 13mm bolts on each side I believe they were.
Working towards the center mounts of the exhaust system, remove these 8 – 13mm bolts.
Now starting at the bolts at the exhaust manifold there are 4 I believe they were 13mm as well. You will need a deep 13mm socket for these. As you can see these are rusted and seized beyond belief. It took me 2 days just to remove the exhaust system because I ended up buying a torch to get the bolts red-hot in order to remove some of them.
As you can see I used some penetrating oil, but that did little to nothing and I was only able to remove 2 of the bolts. These bolts along with the flywheel bolts, diff bolts and driveshaft to transmission output shaft bolts should always be replaced
To get the rest of the bolts off, I had to torch them since they were just crumbling and stripping. In fact these were suppose to be 13mm nuts but for one of the bolts the 13mm socket was too big and for the other the socket was too small because of all the rust deposits I was only able to fit a 12mm socket and 14mm socket on each respectively.
The remnants of the bolts and gaskets maybe this is why they both should be replaced.
Separated but yet still attached by rust. Got my brother to wiggle and pull the exhaust from the rear while I pried it free at the manifold
Heatsheilds removed and now easy access to the driveshaft bolts. To make it simple just remove the 3 bolts from the driveshaft to the flex disc (aka guibo) leaving the flex disc still attached to the transmission with give you something to hold onto while pulling the transmission out.
Hex nuts holding the center mount and bearing in place.
Removing center mount bolts..
Removing Driveshaft to flex disc bolts, I believe they were 18mm bolts.
The differential bolts are star shaped and the sockets I had were labeled E-10, E-15, E-20 etc.. to like E-45 or E-50 don’t know the correct term but I picked up a set at AutoZone a couple years ago and they work flawlessly and are a perfect fit.
given your experiance with this, how hard would it be, how much would it cost, and how long would it take to swap out my 5 speed on the 328Ci with a newer 6 speed tranny?
On the center of driveshaft there is a piece called the clamping sleeve. You must loosen this in order to drop the driveshaft. I think it’s a 46mm but since I didn’t have a wrench of that size I use a large adjustable wrench and loosened it. Once it’s loosened you can just loosen it or retighten it back by hand. Do not remove it and just slowly lower the driveshaft making sure the halves to do separate. (Just a quick note on the the driveshaft to differential. Although you removed the diff bolts, the driveshaft is ever so slightly pressed onto the differential but it is easily removable.
I did the same thing as with the exhaust, used a couple jack stands so the driveshaft wouldn’t fall on me, not that it weighs much anyways.
Cross member bolts I believe were 2 – 10mm for the rubber mounts and 4 – 13mm for the brace portion.
I supported the transmission with a regular floor jack. Wish I had a transmission jack but I had to make due with what I had. (Just a note: the engine will tilt when lower the transmission. What I did here considering I didn’t have the special tool engine supports. I used another floor jack under the oil pan of the engine. I made sure to use a piece of ľ” wood sandwiched in between in order to not damage the oil pan.
Removing Transmission (Caution this slush box weighs in at ~ 170 lbs)
Disconnecting the gear selector cable.
Working at the top of the engine, removing the micro filter housing to be able to see the transmission bolts at the top of the bell housing.
You can see 1 bolt here in this picture.
I removed the engine support brace to tilt the engine and transmission in order to access the bolts on top of the bell housing.
Disconnecting the Autos wiring harnesses.
Removing Oil Cooler Lines.
Disconnecting the lines, they will drain a little oil, not much though. You push in on the locking clip and turn I believe it was to disconnect the lines.
Auto tranny's oil cooler
Starter, no need to remove, once the bolts are removed at the top of the bell housing the transmission will come free without the starter attached.
Removing... some are a tight fit and a few of them you will need like 30" in socket extensions in order to reach them i.e.: the starter bolts.
Be very careful. Make sure you are using the correct socket size. You do not want to strip these for your day will be done if that happens. You can measure the sockets up with the new bolts you bought from the dealer.
Removing gear selector..
Disconnect connector plugs, trim panel etc..
Pull up on the shift knob to remove, and to honest it's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be.
There are 3 torx bolts holding the assembly in place. You also have to loosen the parking lock cable I believe it is.
Now back under the car looking at the front of the transmission you will see this little rubber plug called an access plug. Remove this and you can slightly see the torque converter. There are 3 bolts bolting the flywheel to the torque converter. In order to visually see them you have to turn the crankshaft in order to get them visibly in the access hole. Once you see them use your socket, I believe it was a 17mm or 19mm.
This is how to manually rotate the crank (Thanks to Ed aka edsmax for helping me figure this out) I used one of my O2 sensor sockets, which is 22mm, and it fit perfectly.
The 3 torque converter bolts...
Slightly lowering and pushing back transmission...
And dropped, a whopping 170 lbs of crap!
Just a note when you drop it, use something to hold the torque converter in place so that it won't get damaged by falling off the transmission. The torque converter might spill a little oil but nothing serious.
Looking over your parts you ordered....
New Bell housing bolts
The old ones...
New exhaust gasket seals (Should always be replaced)
New exhaust suspension system since it's different for a manual transmission
New manual transmission cross member brace
New clutch pedal, parts, and assembly
More miscellaneous parts clutch lines, brake fluid hose, bolts etc..
Butyl Tape (It like sticks the driveshaft's center mount to the frame of the car. For some reason my car didn't have it when I removed the old driveshaft)
New flywheel bolts and miscellaneous parts. The flywheel bolts for a manual are longer compared to the autos.
Miscellaneous shifter linkage parts etc..
New radiator mounting plate, and new shift knob.
Used flex disc (I got lucky and it came with the 2nd transmission I bought and was in pretty good condition so this saved me from buying a new one.)
Installing new clutch and brake pedals. This is the part I spoke of in the beginning of removing the seat before you disconnected the battery granted you have power seats that is. It makes it so much easier by being able to lie down while installing the new pedal system.
You can see in this picture where the hose from the brake fluid reservoir comes through the firewall and where the new clutch master cylinder mounts.
Removing more trim panels to pull back the carpet.
Where my UUC clutch stop will go
Where the brake fluid hose comes from and master cylinder will mount
Bolts for master cylinder
Attached brake fluid hose to master cylinder, also attached clutch switch module and wires.
Getting ready to run hose through the firewall. There is also a grommet that I didn’t get a picture of that fits snugly in the hole to prevent moisture from entering the cabin.
Wait here it is….
See look at all that extra hose they give you. I think they gave me like 7 feet but you only use like 1 foot.
Mounting of the clutch master cylinder
Removing clips from the brake pedal system since you need to install the new smaller brake pedal.
Old brake pedal
Before I get to involved with the pedals, back to the clutch lines. There are small-perforated cut outs that you just have to punch out under the car and carpet.
Push back the carpet…
Steel clutch line in place and connected to master cylinder. There are rubber grommets here as well to prevent moisture from entering the cabin.
My slave cylinder is all set, used a repair kit I bought from the dealer and added my new UUC SS clutch line.
Now to the brake fluid reservoir, this little nipple just needs to be cut off and attach the hose you ran through the firewall earlier.
The entire extra hose what a waste.
Bleeding the system...
And the final pedal assembly, sorry no actual pictures of installing the new pedal but it is basically the reverse of removal of the old brake pedal for both the new brake pedal and clutch pedal.
Ok so let move onto something more exciting yeah right. Anyways it's time to drain the coolant and remove the radiator so you can install the new mounting plate and drain plug.
Remove the cover that leads to the stock air box (If you still have the stock air box). 4 plastic expanding rivets fasten it.
Next you can remove the fan shroud. First disconnect the electrical connectors.
Plastic Rivets and torx screws need to come out
Drain your coolant
Engine drain bolt I believe it is 13mm well for my 323i that is (I know it’s been reported a 14mm on other models though)
New crush washer and old drain bolt
A socket pivot joint is good to have for this occasion
Remove this covering, not sure if it was necessary to remove but I removed it anyways.
Disconnect your coolant level sensor plugs
And Hoses…. Inspect and replace as necessary
Where the auto’s oil cooler was removed, a little coolant will come spilling out.
Removed fan and fan clutch bolts using allen socket I believe it was 5mm since you don’t need either anymore.
Disconnecting more hoses…
Big gaping hole…
Now that the coolant is drained and radiator is removed, now it’s time to reinstall the new mounting plate and drain plug piece. If you don’t do this, the radiator will just start pissing coolant everywhere (ask me how I know)
Expansion tank removed. Removal is pretty straight forward, and it is pressed on pretty good.
New and old mounting plates, can you see the difference…
New mounting plate installed.
Now lets reinstall the new radiator, installation is the reverse of removal.
Now before you go ahead and fill the expansion tank and radiator with coolant/distilled water mixture, you must replace the drain plug like I mentioned earlier. It’s actually fairly simple. Just use a 22mm wrench and you can turn the plug (It won’t go far, maybe not even half a turn if that, but it has little plastic notches that lock it into place.
The new part, notice it’s shorter and comes with a new drain plug screw
Comparing old and new, notice the new one is shorter for the new mounting plate and the old one is longer. Well if you were to keep the old one in, the radiator would just piss out coolant.
Refilling with coolant and distilled water. Make sure you have the heater set on high and full blast when performing this.
Now that the radiator is finished lets move onto the installation of the flywheel, clutch and transmission.
I didn’t at first remove the old autos flywheel etc.. and I’m sorry I forgot what size the bolts were but I want to say either 17 or 19mm. They are on there pretty tight and if you try to loosen them without holding the crankshaft stationary it will just keep on moving. So it’s a good idea to have a buddy around to help out with this part.
Stupid starter I really really hate this thing with a passion….
Comparison of the new to old flywheel bolts. Newer ones are longer and shorter ones are for the auto transmission.
New pilot bearing, I made a mistake of ordering this separately because I didn’t know that it came with a new clutch kit that I purchased anyways so I got an extra now for another time.
Pressed in… what I did was took a washer and ground it down to the right size of the pilot bearing. Then took a long bolt with a hex nut at the end and lightly tapped/pressed it into place.
Resurfaced flywheel installed. Cost me $60 to get this resurfaced at a shop that only deals with clutches and flywheels.
New Clutch Disc and clutch alignment tool (Which I hate, it’s literally a piece of crap and didn’t work all that great to be honest.
New Pressure plate…
Installing…. There are 6 allen socket bolts I believe were 6mm and you should tighten exactly like you were tightening your lug nuts. Same goes for the flywheel bolts.
Installing new clutch release bearing that came with the new clutch kit.
Old and new
New one installed
And now for my favorite part, reinstalling the new transmission. At least it’s 100 lbs lighter. I got my brother to help me lift and suspend the transmission in the air while we supported it with jack stand and aligned it properly. This can be a tedious job especially with the lack of clearance you may have. The most difficult part though is making sure that the starters teeth stay aligned with the flywheel. At times when trying to push the transmission on, it would slightly move the starter. Just have patience and you’ll eventually get it.
Rebolt up the transmission housing to engine housing and start installing the new cross member brace to support the transmission. I had purchased 2 pairs of UUC transmission mounts a while back (Both the red and black) I decided to stick with the black since I believe the red are for racing/track use.
Moving on, lets start by reinstalling the driveshaft. Start by installing it to the flex disc first (There’s a reason for this). Leave the transmission in neutral if it’s not already. The reason is because the driveshaft will not align correctly with the differential bolts. This way if you put the transmission in neutral, you will be able to rotate the driveshaft and align the bolt pattern. Once again I supported the driveshaft with my extra pairs of jack stands.
Adding the Butyl Tape, which my car did not have before.
Bolt pattern aligned with differential
Now that the drive train assembly is complete, we can work on some smaller things like wiring up the reverse lights and clutch switch. For the reverse lights all I did was remove the plug from the transmission once it was installed. I soldered 2 wires to the 2-pin plug and used heat shrink tubing over them.
I reinstalled the sensor back on the transmission and ran the wires to the glove box were there was a reverse light terminal above the fuse panel. I simply used the OEM connectors I had from my previous retrofits to install them just like OEM. Just a note the blue/yellow wire is the trigger wire for the reverse lights.
Ran the wires like the autos harness was.
To the fuse panel…
Ok that was simple enough now for the clutch switch and clutch switch module.
The module is attached to the clutch master cylinder and the clutch switch is mounted on the pedal assembly’s frame if you want to call it that. Anyways basically you just connect the wires of the same color to each other since the module has to connect to the clutch switch. The only drawback is that BMW only gives you male connectors for some odd reason and there were no female connectors, so I had to improvise with whatever left over BMW connectors I had. And it turned out I had just enough of the appropriate pins and connectors.
Both clutch switch module and clutch switch:
Pin 1 – Goes to Ground
Pin 2 – Goes to the DME connection at A60004 pin 23
Pin 3 – Goes to Fuse position #9 (5 amp fuse) Brake pedal
So all I did was wired up the switch and module and tapped for ground and the brake pedal wire at the brake pedal switch located right behind the brake pedal. The pin that goes to the DME I ran through the firewall and into the DME connector to the appropriate pin out.
To the DME…
Clutch switch module…
This is the final step. Reinstalling the exhaust and UUC SSK or OEM shifter linkage.
Exhaust is reverse of removal as shown but with a slightly different mounting system due to the new manual transmission.
Reinstalling the heatsheilds…
New exhaust gaskets…
Installing new hangers that go along with the new transmission..
The old one…. It was all bent
Putting it together…
Now moving onto the UUC SSK + DSSR. I had forgot to order the shifting arm for some reason and this put me back about a week to wait for the part.
Anyways installing the bush bearing for the shifting arm. This is an idea of how it rests.
The vacant spot in your car…
Bush bearing installed, it will just snap into place fairly easily.
Installing UUC’s trans shifter into the shifting arm…
Loctite the small allen key bolts..
Shifting arm installed…
This locking pin is kind of tricky to get to snap in correctly.
Installing the SSK…
This can get quite frustrating, bolting up the DSSR or stock selector rod but just be patient. Make sure to grease the pins and secure the clips. And put the washers on if they apply to you (I guess some models physically can’t fit the washers).
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