Euro-Spec CSL Trunk Install DIY
Keywords: CSL, Trunk, Euro-Spec, Install, DIY, fitment, align, adjust, replica, fiber, glass, fiberglass, carbon, pre-facelift, boot, lid
How's it going everyone. I'm not personally a big poster on this thread but I love to lurk around and read what everyone's been doing. I've had saved thousands of dollars on labor and install fees, due mostly to this site. So I decided it was time to give back to the fanatics.
This is my first attempt at a DIY and my first trunk install so hopefully the solutions I present will help some of you in the same position.
Mart and Paul at Euro-Spec.net really came through with a quality product. As we all know aftermarket parts aren't always going to fit 100% like OEM, with that in mind the guys at Euro-Spec are right around that 98% mark.
I recently installed my CSL Fiberglass trunk on my 2000 323i pre-facelift sedan. I was planning on just taking it to the shop and having them do the whole thing since they were painting my whole car anyway. I've always been an avid DIY'er so I decided to tackle this one myself. There were only a few fitment issues that I had come across, but nothing a trusty dremel couldn't fix!!
To answer any of the obvious questions first.
1) No I don't know if this will work the same for a coupe lid. (pretty sure though. just check your trunk with the pics in the DIY)
2) No I don't know if this will work for facelift coupes or sedans. (pretty sure though. just check your trunk with the pics in the DIY)
3) Yes I am in the military and Yes that is a real gas mask. (you'll see.)
Any other questions or comments please feel free to give feedback. If there is anything that I might have left out then please let me know. Again this is my first trunk install and DIY so don't rip me to shreads too quick.
I am available in the San Diego area for any one on one help, and in the LA area on a special case by case basis.
Car used: 2000 323i - Sienna Red
Estimated time to complete: 1-2 hours depending on skills
The following DIY is for informational and resource purposes only. I will NOT be held liable for any injuries to you or persons around you while following these instructions. I also will NOT be held liable for any f*** ups that occur as a result of following or mis-following these instructions. If you feel you are not capable of doing these modifications by yourself, please have your local body shop make these modifications for you. With that being said I hope that this will help those of you that want to save a little bit of money by doing this yourself instead of your body shop.
** CONDUCT THESE MODIFICATIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK **
*Euro-Spec Fiberglass CSL Trunk Sedan Install DIY
The CSL Trunk from Euro-Spec needs a few adjustments that can be done yourself, instead of having to pay a body shop to do it. The following is a DIY to get all of the little kinks and fitment issues out of the way before you bring it to the shop to get prep and paint. Most of the fitment issues for handles, lights, locks, and other parts are mostly due to the fact that Fiberglass is thicker than sheet metal.
1 Dremel (or other rotary cutting tool)
2 Drill bit or cutting bit
3 Cutting wheels (dremel)
4 Sanding wheels (dremel)
5 Straight grinding bit
6 Angle grinding bit
7 Sand paper (I used 60 grit)
8 Sanding Block (Lowes or Home Depot)
9 Respirator or face mask (FG is NOT good to breathe in)
10 Safety glasses or goggles
11 Flex shaft for Dremel (makes things a little easier)
12 Rag to wipe away FG dust
13 Vacuum to suck as much dust as possible while cutting
I'm in the military so I happen to have my Gas Mask around and used that. The face mask doesn't keep everything out.
This DIY's main focus is adjusting your CSL trunk, so I will not go into detail with pictures on how to de-trim your trunk. Here are a few quick steps.
1 Remove trunk tool box
2 Remove trunk liner
3 Unplug trunk light connectors
4 Unplug trunk latch connector
5 Unplug trunk handle connector
6 Unplug trunk lock connector
7 Remove trunk lid lights
8 Remove trunk handle
9 Remove trunk latch
10 Remove trunk lock
11 Remove rubber grommet for wires and feed wire bundle through hole (careful not to snag connectors)
12 Remove BOTTOM Torx bolts
13 Loosen TOP torx bolts
14 Slid trunk lid up and off of mounts.
Install is the reverse.
*** PLEASE READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH INSTALL ***
** PLEASE ADHERE TO ALL SAFTEY OR CAUTION STEPS IN RED TEXT **
I recommend that you conduct steps 1 - 7 off the car to minimize fiberglass dust on car and in trunk.
Fiber glass can be VERY irritating on the skin. Please wear proper clothing and safety equipment when working with fiber glass or carbon fiber i.e. long sleeve shirt, gloves, goggles, face mask, etc . . .
**REMEMBER** make sure you have a way of opening your trunk either manually with key, access to latch rod or by electric trunk handle. Valet key does NOT work on trunk!! There is a step where you disconnect your battery so make sure you don't lock your keys in the trunk if you don't have fold down seats!! I don't have a remote release switch to my trunk so to be safe I just left my right trunk lid light off during this whole process so I had access to the lock and latch rod.
1. Trunk Light Fitment: My trunk lights were not lining up straight with the edges of the trunk so I had to sand the sides down a little bit. The original trunk line were where the yellow lines are. I used the Sanding Block and the 60 grit paper. It's trial and error. Sand, Fit, Sand, Fit, etc . . .
I don't have pictures of before but as you can see the lights now line up really well with the lines of the trunk
2. Trunk Light Fitment 2. I also had to cut part of the trunk away to fit the left trunk light. I used the dremel cutting wheel. The yellow area is where the FG use to be. My trunk lights are Ebay lights so I'm not sure if you need to do this for the stock.
3. Trunk Lock. The FG is too thick where the trunk lock is installed at. I used a flat sanding wheel to thin out the FG where the lock installs at. I also had to enlarge the Lock opening on the outside using the straight grinding bit. I used the angle bit to make the rubber grommet fit better (more detail in step 9). I installed the sandpaper wheel upside down so the sand was facing the Dremel. I then put the wheel in the hole and used it to sand down the back side of the fiber glass all the way around the opening. I went through approx 10-15 sanding wheels. They are really crappy paper circles and "burn-out" quick. You might want to stack up 2 together to make them a little stiffer.
If the mounting holes on the lock don't line up, then you have to cut away apart of this notch so that it will turn all the way.
4. Trunk Latch Rod. One thing I noticed was there was a FG wall where the plastic latch rod was supposed to pass through. Not a problem, a little bit of attention with the drill bit and straight grinder fixed that right up
5. Trunk Latch Mount. Two of the holes where the latch mounts up to, were off. The one on the left was fine. The right was just a little off so I just enlarged it. The bottom one was a little high so I had to drill a new hole.
6. Trunk Handle Mount The square holes in yellow had to be enlarged a little bit to accept the square plastic screw "anchors." The hole in Red had to be enlarged using the straight grinding bit or drill bit. This is where a circle tab fit. I think it was to help in aligning the handle. For the square holes I used my cutting wheel bit (not the wheel but only the bit) wrapped in some sandpaper to fit inside the hole. It probably would have been best to use a small flat file, but I didn't have one, so this worked fine.
I haven't picked up my trunk roundel or my License Plate mounts but I'm pretty sure they might have to be enlarged also.
7. Rubber Trunk Bump Stops The rubber Bump Stops that are on the left and right sides of the trunk latch are just big rubber screws. On the CSL trunk the right hole for the bump stop was not large enough in the little "keyhole" slot. I just used the straight grinder bit to enlarge it.
8. Installing and aligning trunk: There are 8 bolts used when aligning the trunk. 4 torx on the lid and 4 hex on the trunk frame. Put torx bolts in the top mount holes but don't thread them down all the way. Lift trunk and slide onto trunk mounts. Thread bottom torx bolts through mount holes and into trunk, and tighten down about 85%. Run the existing wire bundle from the trunk, in between the weather stripping and the back window to ensure that you don't damage the wires when opening and closing.
BEFORE CLOSING ENSURE YOU HAVE A WAY TO OPEN TRUNK AGAIN. DO NOT LOCK KEYS IN TRUNK!!
Notice how I removed the left trunk shock. I removed it because the trunk is a lot lighter than the stock and with both shocks on it opens very fast. You have to use a LOT more force in closing with both shocks on. With one shock you have to use a little bit more force than the stock trunk when closing but not enough to notice. If your trunk sits high on one side also try removing one shock as this might help remedy that problem. To remove them use a flat tip screwdriver to pry up the clips on the tops and bottoms of the shocks and pull off.
Aligning the trunk can be done by the torx bolts on the lid and by the hex bolts on the frame.
Aligning the trunk is just trial and error. The bottom hex bolts allow you to move the trunk up and down vertically, tilt it back and forth and slide forward and back. The torx bolts allow only forward, backward, left and right alignment. It took me about 6 fitments to get everything right. Just close, check alignment, open, loosen bolts and adjust, tighten again, close, check alignment . . . . Once you have everything done we'll be running the wire bundle back into the trunk and hooking everything back up.
9. Trunk Light Connectors and grommet. The next thing I had to do was enlarge the hole where the wires enter the trunk. I also had to remove the trunk light connectors to fit through the hole. The last thing I had to do was angle the cut of the FG so that the rubber grommet will fit snug.
DISCONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE FROM
BATTERY BEFORE CONTINUING
Unclip white tabs on trunk light connector
Remove white cover of connector
Use a small screwdriver to push pins out
(Careful not to break them)
REMEMBER WHICH PINS GO WHERE FOR
THE LEFT AND RIGHT LIGHTS. I would suggest
marking them with tape
After your done removing the connectors tape all of the loose connectors to the wire bundle so nothing gets snagged. Feed the bundle through the hole and position connectors where they go. Don't forget to re-assemble the trunk light connectors.
As for the rubber grommet that the wires pass through, you have to enlarge the hole and thin out the FG so the grommet will fit snug.
*CAUTION: CAREFUL NOT TO GRIND THE WIRES WHEN DOING THIS*
You can enlarge the hole and thin it out without the wires run through already. I found it easier to run the wires and grind around them, so I didn't have to feed the wires through every time I would test fit it. The inset is a crosscut drawing of the hole. Notice what shape grinder I used and how the grommet fits better in the hole with the angle cut.
This is what the Rubber Grommet looks like
After completing this reconnect all of the connectors and battery. Check the operation of the trunk and all lights. Open and close trunk a few more times to make sure nothing comes loose. Slam the trunk down a few times just for that extra measure.
If all alignments are good and you are satisfied then send it off to prep and paint at your local body shop, unless you're doing that yourself too. LOL
ALL FEEDBACK IS WELCOME!! ENJOY!!
Awesome DIY. I didn't know about the hex bolts. My Vorsteiner trunk sits a bit lifted and looks like I can try to adjust them better with your DIY. Thanks!
Damn, didn't think Euro-spec's CSL trunk would need that much modification.
Great writeup none the less! :thumbup:
it's really not that much. nothing more than your body shop would do to make it fit. And again everybody's car might be different. I have some e-bay lights so some steps might be omitted if yours already fit. The fitment issues were small little details that happen with a lot of aftermarket parts. I just tried to help those out that wanted to tackle this themselves. thanks for the comment.
Great write-up! :thumbsup: Thanks for taking the time to post it. :thanks:
nice write up
very useful DIY, thanks for taking your time to write this out!
one of my pics didn't load. Here it is. These are the tools I used. It's supposed to be right after the list of tools. maybe one of the mods can put it were it belongs.
wow.... great DIY
Awesome write up :)
I received my euro spec CSL FG trunk last week too. Mine is for a coupe. So, I'll be doing the same kind of write up for it too. I'll be using all OEM lights so we'll see the differences between the coupe/sedan and oem/ebay lights. I'll be doing it this weekend as i work all week (probally do it friday)
So how was iraq? ill be heading there soon myself:banghead:
Well depends on where you go in Iraq. If you are a Marine then you'll probably be in the west side of Iraq which is where all the bad **** happens. But it's been getting better and better every deployment. If you are in any other service you'll probably be in the East side, where it's nice and green.
News update! I'll be getting my car back on Friday so I'll be able to take pics of it this weekend. So far it looks great!! I'll post pics as soon as I get them!
props on the very detailed DIY
looks like a lot of work
That was a good write up.
hey bro hows the M3 mirror? hope to hear from you soon, take care.
Hey Martin. My shop painted the mirrors and I'll be installing them on Wednesday. Yeah I know it's been a while but the shop had my car for about 6 weeks now doing a full paint job. I am excited to see how everything fits. As soon as everything is done my buddy will take some professional pics around the SD area. Can't wait!!!
awesome bro! cant wait to see your soon.
Question about your trunk lights. Does the red part of the light work? does it turn on when you turn on your headlights or step on the brakes?
If it doesn't work, how can we make it work because mine doesn't work. I only have 2 wires from the connector.
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