Edge protector replacement DIY
OK, so my stepfather and I replaced my worn edge protectors on both front doors last autumn, but I've just been too lazy to post up the DIY unitl now. Apologies for how the car looks, I got the messy jobs out of the way before re-conollising the leather interior!
Stay with it, lots of pics in two parts!
1. Remove the kick plate
2. Using trim tools makes this easier (bought of eBay really cheaply)
3. There are three pop-in plastic rivets to pry off.
4. With the kick plate removed...
5. Roughly line up the new edge protector with the piece in situ that is to be replaced as an initial guide to placement.
6. Now simply peel away the old edge protector - there is a male and female end located under the now-removed kick plate - seperate these and pull off door.
7. The new edge protector part number for a sedan (it's the same for both front doors)
8. Take the new edge protector out of the box and find the small rubber thread - this is important - remove it or else the protector wont sit properly on the door (and yes, we found this out the long way!:banghead:)
9. This thread runs the entire length of the edge protector...
10. And is of no use other than to maintain the edge protector's shape (it has a metal core than can bend as you'll see later)...
11. This is what the finished fitment of the edge protector looks like if you don't remove the inner thread! (Check out the dirty mark about half an inch above the felt!) :banghead:
12. This is the part of the new edge prtector that connects to the edge of the door frame...
13. ...And this is what the now-exposed door frame looks like you are fixing it to...
14. Using a rubber mallet start applying the edge protector to the door. Start at the base of the door where the kick plate was and keep the felt finish upwards and inwards
15. It's important to keep a good level of tension on the new part whilst you are applying it to the door edge so you've got enough to reach the other end!
16. Applying the new protector to the corners of the door frames are the trickiest bits - ensure tension is maintained and push the protector right into the corner to ensure maximum tightness in these areas.
17. Once the first top corner has been applied, maintain the taughtness and run along the top of the edge...
18. The watchword as you go around is keep it tight (without popping previously done corners out again!)
19. Coming around the last corner - you'll soon find out if you're tight enough all round!
20. This is what you should have left at the end - just enough length for the male end to marry to the female.
21. Once the protector has been joined up, go around again and check the felt trim edging of the new piece is flush to the rest of the door trim -it should be over and not under the other trim and as dirt has normally been trapped under the old edge protector, it's easy to see if the felt is in the right place (see the dirty line just above the finger in this pic).
22. The trim tools come in handy for this last job.
Now simply re-fix the door kick plate (it just snaps back in) and you're done!
23. This was what the rubber looked like on my old edge protectors...
24. ...And what the inside of the old edge protector had deteriorated into because of water ingress via the rotten rubber. It's this metal that allows the edge protector to grip the door edge.
At the start of this piece, I said that my stepfather and I did this - well in actual fact I just stood there and took loads of pictures like a bossy photographer, so just a big thanks to my stepdad David who is the real reason this DIY is up here!
Total time for job - about 15 minutes per door once we (David!) sussed it out.
Hope this is useful - it a fairly easy DIY:thumbsup:
one of my seals is leaking water through into the interior during heavy rainstorms
would a new one definitely seal it back up?
well.. there is a cable involved in this DIY and somehow you didn't mention anything about the cable...
Seat Ibiza, nice! :D
good info. ud be surprised how many people have holes in their rubbers all around
good write up. wish these damn things werent so expensive though!
If that beautiful woman in the last post is your wife, (and she darn well better be!)
then helping you with the car is the least thing your father in law has done for you!
Heck,forget working on that silly car! lol
Anyway, where was I, I have a 99 323 but just yesterday I bought the edge protector for the rivers side of my 01 530 and it was $82 reduced ti $51
with BMWCCA discount, at Autobahn motors in Fort worth tx. Interestingly the price I paid is what shows up in Realoem.com ( it about $5 less for a 46 than a 39)
Thanks, perfect timing, I thought I was going to need to glue it, and that can be messy,although it's the seals on the doors that often need glue I guess.
Deffo no glue needed - the metal core of the protector is more than enough to grip the chasis frame. Let us know how you get on!:hi:
Okay, quick question to bring this thread back to life:
I just received my edge protector from Tischer today and noticed that I have a physical wire with a female end plug at one end. Does anyone know what the hell might be plugging into an edge protector?! I'm confused as hell right about now
good way to spend time with your step dad, bonding experience.
For Coupe Owners:
I noticed a few unique things when installing my driver's side edge protector yesterday:
1. The edge protector does not come split in half like in this DIY. It is one continuous piece which can make the install more of a pain to ensure everything lines up and the seal is perfect.
2. There is no long, thin rubber cord that needs to be taken out before installation. That's a plus!
3. Your kick plate has an annoyingly vast amount of attachment points: 8 on each side. DO NOT USE PLIERS TO TAKE THEM OUT, THEY WILL BREAK OFF AND FALL INTO THEIR HOLES. Use a clip extraction tool.
4. You must take your A-pillar off (Take off the HPS strip to reveal three T20 bolts, real easy to take off) to gain access to a two wire plug that connects to your side airbag system. I unhooked my battery for this step and waited one minute just in case. Unhook the wire and your old edge protector will come off. Make sure to hook up your new edge protector to the airbag during installation.
The felt portion of the edge protector has separated away on both of my new (to me) 2003 330 Ci door frames... is it possible to secure it in place without taking off the entire door frame trim seal ?
just did this today, my edge protector was several inches longer than the one that i took out, and i ended up using a razor blade to cut off the excess and make a perfect fit, also need a tin snipper or wire cutter to cut through the thin metal reinforcement. I hope this solves my leaking problem on rainy days!
NicB. if water is standing in your passenger floor board then its not your door seal. you might wont to check your windshild cowl. I had the same issue with mine. it seems the water runs down behind the cowl and into your filter housing then drains through the AC. vent on to the blower motor then on to the carpit.
^^thanks, I replaced that a couple years ago too. No more leaks for me after the door trim was redone.
I know this is an old thread, but more relevant now as the cars get older and the rubber and plastics degrade. My driver side needs replaced.
Thanks for taking the time to post the DIY
Start at the bottom of the door with the male and female connectors put together, I don't believe the coupe is seamed like this). Hand press the seal onto the frame. Do 4-6 inches on one side of the bottom seam, then do 4-6 inches on the other side of the seam, then tap gently with a rubber mallet only after it's seated, alternating from one side and then the other,until you get to the top of the door. It will look as though you have too much material, but be patient and re-work until the final drooping section is worked into the top of the door frame. This extra material allows for contraction of the materials and allows the metal band in the seal to act like an outward compression spring, maintaining outward pressure against the door frame to keep the seal from drooping once the rubber starts to degrade down the road.
The extra stringy thing is there so that once you have it installed, when you pull the string out bit by bit, it pulls the felt over the trim pieces so you don't have to go back and pry it over one section at a time.
Wish the photos were still available.
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