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-   -   Suspect Heater Valve, but no DTC's?? (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=548495)

stick5 02-19-2008 12:23 PM

Suspect Heater Valve, but no DTC's??
seems like many of us are having HVAC problems which are difficult to troubleshoot. like some of you, my problem is that my heat works for 10-20min, then it blows cold until i crank up the temp another 10-15 degrees. this cycle continues until i hit MAX temp (91F). sometimes air stays hot, sometimes gets cool again. as i start to lower temp again, the fan speed also backs off...so far, so good...until i back down to approx 65F...then fan speed goes back up and system blows cool air. after reading numerous posts, i'm thinking the problem is the heater control valve. but my peake reader shows no faults other than 92 (small evap leak) which i'm guessing is probably my gas cap (unrelated to this problem).

anyone know if a bad heater valve would result in a fault code? i would think so, but i'm not getting one.

stick5 02-19-2008 09:54 PM

this is the best e46 board, hands down...and nobody out there knows anything about fault codes on bad heater valves??

Ivegotissues666 02-20-2008 06:08 PM

No it will not trigger a fault code for a faulty heater valve.


stick5 02-20-2008 08:29 PM


Originally Posted by Ivegotissues666 (Post 7442865)
No it will not trigger a fault code for a faulty heater valve.


thanks, jared. that surprises me - would have expected a fault. based on my problem description, do you agree that the heater valve is bad?

eweis 10-21-2009 09:45 PM

This is an old thread but it turned up on my search for "heater control valve".
I found this post intriguing because I am also throwing code 92 EVAP capillary leak, .5mm detected. Aside from the code, I'm noticing a regular tapping sound which occurs every 8-12 seconds or so. I have narrowed down the sound as coming from my heater control valve (attached to left front strut housing just below/beside the MAF sensor and intake boot).

It hasn't started getting cold yet around here so I have not had a chance to test the heating ability of the system --a symptom noted in other posts.

So, my question is: is my heater control valve bad or is it more likely that related hoses are cracked/leaking? or is it indicative of other problems?

As a side note, possibly related, my coolant reservoir bleeder screw has broken resulting in some fluid leaking. I've just ordered all the parts for a cooling system overhaul. Anyone think this will stop the heater valve from tapping?

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