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-   -   xi front outer CV boot replacement help (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=556997)

revshed 03-17-2008 10:49 PM

xi front outer CV boot replacement help
 
I've searched and found little help with the front outer CV boot replacement on this forum. I'm hoping this thread will inspire the sharing of some new knowledge. I've looked through my Bently manual and they mention some very specific tools to accomplish the task, however I cannot find these tools anywhere on the web. Has anyone done this using the recommended tools (I would rather not beat things apart with a big hammer and screw driver). Thanks for any help you can provide.

revshed 03-24-2008 11:23 AM

Okay, since nobody here was of any use on this project I took some initiative and tore into this project this weekend. Originally I was just going to replace my front outer boot but after some more reading decided to do the inner boot at the same time since it is only a $10 kit from pelicanparts.com

I contacted bimmertools.com about the hub puller and inner cv pry tool listed in the Bentley manual, the prices came back at $900 and $200 respectively. So instead, I went to toolsource.com and purchased the KD Tools universal heavy duty hub puller ($150)

Following the instructions in the Bentley manual got me to the point where I was supposed to use the BMW tool to remove the hub, I used the KD Tools puller and it worked like a charm. I then proceeded to remove the control arm mounts and got to the point the manual recommended using the inner CV pry tool to pull the innner axle out of the front differential. Instead, I gave the axle a good tug and the boot slid off the inner axle stub and the inner joint seperated easily so that I could completely remove the axle from the car.

I'm still waiting for the outer CV boot kit to get here, should be tonight; then I'll put it back together.

All in all, given my existing general tools I only needed the following to do both CV boots on the right front of my '02 xi:

1. Inner boot kit - $10
2. Outer boot kit - $10
3. Axle nut - $6
4. 18mm wrench (for one of the control arm mounts) - $11
5. Heavy Duty hub puller - $150

Overall time to complete this by myself should be about 3 to 4 hours when I'm all done.

Hope this helps some of you guys in the future - a shop I sometimes go to said the xi's tear through CV boots, so I think the $150 tool was a good investment as I will probably have this car for some time.

ken@bimmertools 03-24-2008 10:37 PM

I'm glad you found an alternative.

FYI, we are a KD dealer as well, though we don't have a lot of their items listed. It is difficult to cross-reference the OE Service tools (what we quoted) and other brand's universal tools.

I'm very interested in checking this tool out, as it sounds like something we'd want to list. Can you provide the KD part number?

Thanks again for checking with us first - sorry we couldn't help at the time.

Ken

revshed 03-24-2008 11:01 PM

Toolsource lists the manufacturer part number for the KD hub puller as 2251. If that's not correct you can look at it on their site with the following link:

http://www.toolsource.com/heavyduty-...r-p-90358.html


If you guys start carrying this at bimmertools, you should post a follow-up in this thread as there are not a lot of threads on this site with details of CV boot replacement.

ken@bimmertools 03-25-2008 08:22 AM

We can get that part - I'll be adding it to our catalog. Our price will meet or beat the $150 mark.

Thanks so much for the information! There are a lot of specialty jobs that I'm personally unfamiliar with. Having access to all the required tools is only part of the job. I'm learning something new everyday.

Ken

revshed 04-01-2008 09:40 PM

Overall I would say this was a moderately difficult task that was made much easier by having the proper tools. As I mentioned in my post, I have a fairly common set of metrick wrenches and sockets, as well as an air wratchet, but the specialty tools you will need include:

-36mm 12pt socket for the axle nut
-18mm wrench for the front ball joint (I couldn't get a socket to fit)
-some small torx bits to get the headlight arm off the control arm if you have the xenon lights (you'll find the bolt has a place for the torx bit so you can keep it from spinning while you take the nut off with a wrench
-a metric alan head socket to take the brake pulse sensor out
-the KD tools universal puller to separate the hub from the axle
-a set of special pliers for crimping the CV boot clamps
-lots and lots of shop towels to wipe away a lot of grease
-Locktite

Once you have the tools you will need the parts (I used realoem.com to look up the part numbers and then ordered the parts from pelicanparts.com):
-Front inner CV boot kit
-Front outer CV boot kit
-Axle nut

The Bentley manual was helpful, but since I had never done this before I was left to figure a couple things out on my own that I don't think were well explained in the manual.

First thing you will want to do (after your car is jacked/supported and the wheel in question is removed) is take a hammer and punch (or screwdriver) and pound out where the axle nut is staked. Then use your 36mm socket and an air ratchet to loosen remove the nut.

Next follow all the instructions in the Bently to remove various parts from the control arm and remove your brake caliper (suspending from the suspension springs with zip ties keeps it out of the way nicely. I didn't think I would need to remove the aluminum heat sheild, but I ended up needing to in order to get to the rear control arm bushing mount. (There are two small screws, one in the wheel well and one further back under the car; I really had to pull to get the heat shield out)

After that, you can remove the control arm bushing and the front ball joint from the frame of the car and the it should just hang from the hub.

Finally, use the hub puller to press the axle back through the hub (I used a long metal bar wedged through the puller resting on the floor, to keep the puller from spinning while I pressed the axle out).

Once you have seperated the axle from the hub (pulled out the back) rather than following the process of pulling the axle stub out of the transmission with another $200 tool, I simply grabbed the axle and gave it a couple good tugs. The inner CV boot pulled off the transaxle stub and I was able to remove the outer axle from the car. Since this method separates the inner CV joint, you should definately replace both boots at the same time. Make sure you take the adapter out of the inner boot (adapts the triangular transaxle to the round boot) as you will need to reuse it.

Now you will need to place the center axle in a vice and remove the boot clamps from both joints. Slide the outer boot (big end of the boot) back and hit the large part of the stub with a hammer to separate it off of the center axle. Then you can remove both boots off of this axles; and you will need to wipe out all the grease. The boot kits I bought said not to use brake cleaner but rather wash the parts with soap and water. Once both joints and all axle parts are clean, take the new circlip and slide it down into the groove in the outer axle stub joint. You can then slide the boots back on and pack the grease into the joints but don't tighten the clamps. Next you put the outer CV joint back together and hammer the outer axle stub back onto the center until the clip snaps into place inside the joint. Next tighten down the large clamp on the outer boot, and manipulate the joint in every direction; then tighten the small clamp.

Noe you can slide the axle back into the (cleaned) transaxle and get the outer axle stub started into the hub. Slide the adapter and boot onto the transaxle and tighten clamp. Squeeze the inner boot to burp the air out and then tighten the small clamp. Now comes the part I had the most difficulty with; I took a foot long 4"x4" board and used a small 3 pound sledge hammer to pound the hub back onto the outer axle stub far enough to get then nut threaded about half way on (it took a lot of pounding and some pretty hard shots). Finally I thightened the nut as much as I could with an air ratchet, and reassembled the rest of the car. I put the wheel back on and lowered the car so that the wheel was supporting the weight of the car; then I used a 1/2 torque wrench and the 36mm socket set to 185ft/lbs (as high as it would go) and then I tightened the nut as much as I possibly could. The torque wrench indicated 185ft/lbs and I still got almost another full turn of the nut after that point. Finally, stake the new nut and put the wheel center cap in.

I wouldn't think you would need to get an alignment done after this, but I had done some rear suspension work at the same time so I took my car in for a four wheel alignment when I was done.

All in all, when I was done it was probably a four hour job and I spent about $25 in total parts. I spent about $200 in tools, but I believe these will be a good investment and overall the total cost including tools was still cheaper than an indi shop would charge you to do a single boot.

bradley01 04-02-2008 08:50 AM

revshed,
This is an awesome write-up! Thanks for the info! I am curious as to the method of tightening the clamps on the CV boots. Is it just like a regular hose clamp? I know some boot rings take a special ring-tightening tool. Is that the case with these? I don't have the parts yet, otherwise I would be able to tell. Thanks!

revshed 04-02-2008 09:08 AM

For the clamps that will come with the kit you will need a special set of crimping pliers. I got mine from bavauto.com, but I've also e-mailed ken@bimmertools.com about a couple other tools and he has been great to work with; he can probably get these for you as well and will probably beat bavauto's price.

I've heard of other people replacing the factory clamps with regular hose clamps, but it seems like you get a better squeeze with the factory ones, and I'm not one to swap out to cheaper parts on a BMW. I guess it would be up to your preference.

bradley01 04-08-2008 08:41 AM

Well, I attempted this repair this weekend. I ran into a road block when trying to remove the axle from the hub. No matter how much pressure I put on it with the hub puller, the axle would not push out of the hub. I called my indy and they said that it was a one-in-a-million chance that the axle would be stuck. They said every car they have ever worked on (that has <60k miles on it) they are usually able to just tap the axle out with an air hammer no problem. Just my luck. Well, now I have the car put back together and i'm taking it to my indy to have them fix it. So much for saving that $300!

Wreckless 04-08-2008 10:36 AM

Sure does seem like a lot of work! I know that one of my CV boots is pinched but not torn... yet. I was thinking about doing it myself but, I think I might just suck it up and let an indy shop take care of it for me.

wdeerfield 04-08-2008 12:01 PM

dont wait too long to replace a slightly torn boot or else you will be rebuilding or replacing the whole half axle like i had to.. once it clicks.. it has quit.

Wreckless 04-08-2008 12:38 PM

so short of getting under the car what are the signs to look for when the cv boot actually rips? grease leaking on the floor? weird noise? I've got a warranty that will be up in a few thousand miles and they don't want to replace the boots now because they are not "failed" one is just pinched.....

bradley01 04-08-2008 01:01 PM

check the inside of the wheel. Once the boot rips, grease will sling all over the inside of the wheel. Its lovely!

revshed 04-08-2008 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wreckless (Post 7705157)
so short of getting under the car what are the signs to look for when the cv boot actually rips? grease leaking on the floor? weird noise? I've got a warranty that will be up in a few thousand miles and they don't want to replace the boots now because they are not "failed" one is just pinched.....

If you hear noise, it's too late; you've damaged your joints. You need to visually inspect the boot; if you catch it early enough you will just see some grease between the ribs on the boot, if you wait a little longer you will indeed see grease splattered inside the wheel and inside the wheel well (as well as on your strut, and possibly on your frame if it's the inner boot).

revshed 04-08-2008 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradley01 (Post 7703920)
Well, I attempted this repair this weekend. I ran into a road block when trying to remove the axle from the hub. No matter how much pressure I put on it with the hub puller, the axle would not push out of the hub. I called my indy and they said that it was a one-in-a-million chance that the axle would be stuck. They said every car they have ever worked on (that has <60k miles on it) they are usually able to just tap the axle out with an air hammer no problem. Just my luck. Well, now I have the car put back together and i'm taking it to my indy to have them fix it. So much for saving that $300!

This may be an innapropriate question (but I don't know your level of mechanical aptitude so forgive me); did you put a little bit of grease on the puller where it was contacting the axle? If you don't do this you will get so much friction between the puller and the axle that you will be unable to turn the center bolt on the puller.

bradley01 04-09-2008 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by revshed (Post 7705429)
This may be an innapropriate question (but I don't know your level of mechanical aptitude so forgive me); did you put a little bit of grease on the puller where it was contacting the axle? If you don't do this you will get so much friction between the puller and the axle that you will be unable to turn the center bolt on the puller.

Yea man...no problems with that. The puller was all oiled up. Spun easily. At least until it was torqued all the way down!

brujack 06-03-2008 03:09 PM

I have done both sides on my XIT. You do not need to remove the control arm or any ball joints. You just remove the hub from the strut. There is enough room to get the axle out from there. The first one I did, I removed the rear of the control arm. The other one, I did not.

The biggest pain in the ass is getting the outer axle back into the hub. This is a major pain in the ass. I fought with both sides for a while to get it enough in to start the nut.

Bruce

rckt64 08-12-2008 08:09 PM

My Experiance changing shafts.
 
I was having a terrible vibration from the front end of my car during acceleration. I checked the shafts and they both could be shook and rattled when moved by hand. So I bought the axle kit from Groton through ebay. Great deal. Lifetime warranty So I searched the forums for a how to change the front axles. There are a few different write ups on this. But there was more detail needed since I never done this to a BMW before. I would like to share my experience with you so that maybe it will be easier for the next guy. To start off I want to say it took me 2 days to figure out the first side (passenger). It took me 1 hour to do the second side. Big difference. I am writing this after the fact so the sizes of sockets are not exact.
Tools needed were:
1)Big Hammer and medium hammer
2)Metric alan wrench set (small to medium).
3)Metric socket set 10-19mm
4)Big flat tip screw driver
5) 36mm 12 point socket for axle nut.
6) ĹĒ Impact wrench and air compressor
Special Tools Needed.
1)2 foot ĺ or 1 inch steel bar for pounding.
2)2 foot 2x4 for pounding
3)small hydraulic jack for lifting the control arm back up.
4)small bucket 12 to 15 inches high with lid to let the control arm / hub sit on.
5) Knee Pads.

OK, Break loose the lugs on the front wheels.
Jack up the car and set it on Good sturdy jack stands.
Take wheels off. Do 1 side at a time.
Take the brake caliper of using the 13 or14mm bolts (2 of them), not the allen head bolts. The whole caliper with the brakes and the brake sensor if you got one should come off together. Keep them together it makes it very easy to put back on. Use the bucket to sit it on until you decide to hang it with a piece of wire from the spring.
Use the impact wrench and the 13 or 14mm socket to take the bolt from the middle of the strut that holds that 12 inch connecter to the front support. If you do not have a impact that bolt is hard to get off Ė you will need a wrench and allen wrench to do it.
Now is a good time to use that big screwdriver and the smaller hammer to bend the axle nut back to normal so you can get it off with the big 12 point socket. I used a breaker bar and a 4 foot pipe to get it loose. Watch you donít knock the car off of the jack stands.
Take the bolt(15 or 16mm) out of the back bottom of the strut(this holds it to the control arm) using the impact wrench. It is on there tight. Pull it all the way out. At this time the hub and lower control might fall down a little. You will need that bucket again to catch the whole thing as it drops. You might have to bounce that big hammer on it a couple of times. Be sure not to damage anything. The hub will flop toward you when it comes off. Use that bucket. Pull the hub toward you.
Now you can get that steel bar and place it in the hub on the end of the axle where you took the nut off. Use the big hammer and knock the axle back through the hub. Be sure not to hit the bearing in the hub. The axle should pop through after about 10 hits.
Push the axle toward the motor to close it up. It should move enough so you can pull the hub end up out of the hub completely. This is where I got stuck, trying to figure out how to get the axle out of the differential without knocking the clip off the axle and into the diff. I discovered if you crawl under the car and take the plastic cover off you can get that pipe up in there and place it on the back of the fat part of that axle where the bearings are and hit it with the hammer. It will come right out and the clip will still be on it. Take that clip off without bending it open. You will need it for the new shaft. The clip that comes with the new one is too big. I could not get the new shaft in with those clips. So I put the old clips on new shafts. They are smaller!!!!!!!

Input: Now when you handle the new shafts keep them pushed together while inserting them in the car. They will come apart if you jerk them outward and you donít want that. Now place the axle in the hole and slide it into the teeth of the differential gear. Be sure not to catch the boot on anything and tear it. You know you are in the gear when the wheels want to turn as you turn the shaft. To get it the rest of the way in you will need that 2x4 I mentioned earlier. Put the end of the board against the boot where it is clamped onto the shaft. Make sure you got no extra boot under the board. The board should be directly against the thick of that back section of the bearings holder. I donít know what it is called, it could be called joint guide or something. Push it tight and then give it a couple of taps with the hammer. You might have to hit it pretty good. But,,,,,try not to tear that boot!!!!!!!
Once you got that in you home free. Just lift the hub side of the shaft up and into the hub. Push the hub into the shaft. you might need to tap it in also. Now use that little jack to jack up the control arm while you shake the bottom of the strut into the hub. It might take a couple of tryís to get it in right. There is a guide pin on the back of the strut that goes down into the hub. Make sure it is down in there all the way. Put the bolt back in with the brake hose holder.

I wonít go through the rest it is just a reversal of taking it apart.
I hope this helps anyone who has to change front shafts on an XI.

By the way the shake is all gone and she rides like new again.
Thanks
Rckt64

liuczh 07-16-2009 07:48 PM

replace front CV inner/outer boots for 325xi
 
I just replaced the front cv inner and outer boot on both driver and passenger side for my 2001 325xi.
I read a lot of posts before I started so I want to share my experience as well.

Tools needed:

-36mm 12pt socket for the axle nut
-18mm wrench and 16mm wrench for control arm
-some small torx bits to get the headlight arm off the control arm if you have the xenon lights (you'll find the bolt has a place for the torx bit so you can keep it from spinning while you take the nut off with a wrench

-KD Tools (KD 3955) CV Boot Clamp Tool (I got it from NAPA)
-Flange FWD axle puller (rent from Autozone OEM# 27037 for free)
-OEM slide Hammer flange (rent from Autozone OEM#27032 for free, the box shows rear axle puller)

-Breaker bar and socket wrench
-lots and lots of shop towels to wipe away a lot of grease
-Locktite

Once you have the tools you will need the parts (I used realoem.com to look up the part numbers and then ordered the parts from pelicanparts.com):
-Front inner CV boot kit
-Front outer CV boot kit
-Axle nut
-The Bentley manual

1. The puller:
I saw people use KD Tools 2251 Heavy-Duty Universal Wheel Hub Puller or 3 jaw gear puller, or just hammer.
The Universal Wheel Hub Puller is a little expensive so I rented "Front Hub Puller with Spare Locknut" from Autozone.
You can see the picture here:
OEM Front Wheel Drive Hub Puller
http://www.oem-tools.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1765
But the diameter is a little bit small for my car, so I rent "OTC (OTC7792) Flange Type Axle Puller Attachment"
http://www.oem-tools.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1760
The rear axle puller does not come with a bolt, so I use the bolt from FWD axle puller with the rear axle puller and
make it a perfect axle puller. Normally, I use 3 lug nuts to fix the puller on the hub and tight the bolt in the middle
to push the axle out. But my axle on the passenger side is too tight, when I tight the screw, the puller and the hub keep
spinning. So what I do is: I fix the bolt on the puller with nut. And then screw the lug nut on the hub. I tight the 3 lug nuts
with Breaker bar while use socket wrench to fix the bolt in the middle. When the lug nuts are all screwed in, I removed the
puller from the hub and screw the middle bolt in 0.5 inch and fix it, then tight the 3 lugs again. In this way, I successfully
removed my axle from the hub.

2. the boot clamp of GKN Loebro
The inner boot clamp of GKN Loebro axle boot kit is too thick and too hard to bend. Even I bought the clamp tool, I
can not tight the clamp. Even I tightened them, The gease was still leaking. So I ended up replace the big clamps with the
one I bought from NAPA to solved the problem.

The outer boot clamp of GKN Loebro axle boot kit is too soft. I broke one clamp into 2 with my clamp tool when I tight the clamp.

The steps:

1. jack up the car and remove the wheels.

2. take a hammer and punch (or screwdriver) and pound out where the axle nut is staked.
Then use your 36mm socket and Breaker bar to loose the axle nut. When I loose the nut, I need another one to step on the brake
to prevent the axle from spinning.

3. remove brake caliper and bracket. Hang caliper from strut spring using a stiff wire (a bent hanger will do).
Remove brake rotor. Remove the dust shield under the car, remove the aluminum heat sheild under the passenger side,
(I really had to pull to get the heat shield out)

4.Remove the ABS Pulse Generator Sensor, headlight arm off the control arm on the passenger side.

5. remove stabilizer Hex nut from stut

6. loose 2 18mm HEX bolts of control arm with 18mm wrench

7. remove 2 16mm Hex bolt of control arm bushing from the frame. Now the control arm just hang on the hub with ball joint connected.
the stut, the hub and the axle are loose.

8. use my own axle puller to push the axle toward the transmission and out of the hub.

9. Once you have seperated the axle from the hub, in stead of pulling the axle stub out of the transmission, I simply grabbed the axle and
gave it a couple good tugs. The inner CV boot pulled off the transaxle stub and I was able to remove the outer axle from the car.
Since this method separates the inner CV joint, you should definately replace both boots at the same time.
Make sure you take the adapter out of the inner boot (adapts the triangular transaxle to the round boot) as you will need to
reuse it.

10. Remove the boot clamps from both joints. Slide the outer boot (big end of the boot) back and hit the large part of the stub
with a hammer to separate it off of the center axle. Then you can remove both boots off of this axles; and you will need to wipe out all the grease.
Remove the old circlip with screw driver.
Once both joints and all axle parts (balls and bowl) are clean,

11. You can then slide the boots back on and pack the grease into the joints but don't tighten the clamps.
take the new circlip amke it as small as the axle
and slide it down into the groove in the outer axle stub joint. If the circlip is too big, you can not slide it in to the Axle shaft stub.
(I broke 3 circlips when I hammer the outer axle stub back onto the center, and the car generate noise if the circlip is not working.)
Next you put the outer CV joint back together and hammer the outer axle stub back onto the center until
the clip snaps into place inside the joint. Next tighten down the large clamp on the outer boot,
and manipulate the joint in every direction; then tighten the small clamp.

12. Noe you can slide the axle back into the (cleaned) transaxle and get the outer axle stub started into the hub.
Slide the adapter and boot onto the transaxle and tighten clamp. Squeeze the inner boot to burp the air out and then tighten
the small clamp.

13. put the 36mm 12pt socket and an old 5'' 1/2 socket extension on the hub and used a small 5 pound sledge hammer to pound
the extension to make hub back onto the outer axle stub far enough to get then nut threaded about half way on
(it took a lot of pounding and some pretty hard shots and I damaged the extension).

14. Finally I tightened the nut with 2 lug nut on the hub and use a long screw driver or pry bar to stop hub from spinning.

15. reinstall the control arm, stabilizer, ABS Pulse Generator Sensor, brake rotor and caliper. Then tight the 36mm axle nut as much as I can
with another one step on the brake. and stake the nut.

16. put on the wheel.

That's all. I spent a lot of time to deal with the circlip and clamp on the inner boot. Other than that, everything goses
quite smooth. Because of the circlip, I had to order extra boots and bough some generic cv boot clips from local NAPA store.

Rickna 09-21-2009 05:32 AM

This will make it easier.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zWGHdZvBbI


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