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-   -   Koalty HID Vs DDM Apexcone (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=642147)

n2Bimmer 01-21-2009 05:01 PM

Koalty HID Vs DDM Apexcone
 
Hey guys, whats the difference, Apexcone is a few bucks cheaper, this will be going on my 86 635CSI.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=632367
http://www.ddmtuning.com/ap55wwesa.html

soh5241 01-21-2009 10:28 PM

i have the DDM Apexcone HID's and they are bright, i light up everything when i drive at night..

issacsierra06 01-21-2009 10:29 PM

they are the same!!! i believe they go threw the same providers

bcs325ci 01-22-2009 02:03 AM

Koalty sells the ddm apexcone HID's however they are the slim ballasts which are more convieniant IMO

Chris-TK 01-22-2009 02:07 AM

They're the same. Khoa and DDM work together on many of their products. :)

Chris-TK 01-22-2009 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcs325ci (Post 9274676)
Koalty sells the ddm apexcone HID's however they are the slim ballasts which are more convieniant IMO

slim ballasts SUCK btw, they have some of the highest return rates. :rofl:

sillieidiot 01-22-2009 03:03 AM

they are exactly the same. khoalty just resells ddm's stuff

iftwb 01-22-2009 08:02 AM

I kind of wish I didn't buy slim ballasts. The chunky ones are neater, more simpler. With slims, you gotta tape two separate ballast and ignition to certain areas for them to hold up.

KHOALTY, Inc. 01-22-2009 10:30 AM

The slim ballast has a less than 1% failure rate. We sell more than 10,000 kits a month so if you see a warranty box full of ballast that failed, you will know why. With the full size ballast people don't usually buy bc of the size. Both are great kits, its just what type of money do you want to pay. I have the slim kit in another car that is not BMW, and it hasn't failed on me for 5 years, unfortunately I can't say the same on the full size ballast which failed on me once for my fog lights but now it is stable for the past 3 years.

Since it comes with warranty, you are set. Electronics are prone to fail no matter what, they can't last forever. If it fails, just warranty it out for a new one.

sillieidiot 01-22-2009 02:52 PM

the older full size ballast was the good one. the newer looking one is not fully digital as well. digital ones suck. they are unstable during initial startup and down even put out the claimed output power. i've had problem with both the new big ballast and the slims.

bring back the old hella gen 3 replica ballasts

Slick-Vic 05-11-2013 12:10 AM

I purchased a set of ddm slims 55w a while back they work fine, however installing this I lost my high beams? When I pull the lever back my high beams flash but when I push the lever forward for high beams to be constant I get nothing. My high beams are oem H7's am I missing a wiring harness or something? I never really cared about this in the past but will not pass inspection now that they have caught on. Any advice would be great thanks guys

sillieidiot 05-11-2013 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slick-Vic (Post 15414714)
I purchased a set of ddm slims 55w a while back they work fine, however installing this I lost my high beams? When I pull the lever back my high beams flash but when I push the lever forward for high beams to be constant I get nothing. My high beams are oem H7's am I missing a wiring harness or something? I never really cared about this in the past but will not pass inspection now that they have caught on. Any advice would be great thanks guys

i'm assuming you reprogrammed your car? just find someone that knows how to use NCS and have them code your car to enable the highs again. otherwise, you just have to do the bixenon retrofit, but instead of using that to activate the solenoid, you use it to activate the inner highs. either way will work.

Slick-Vic 05-11-2013 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sillieidiot (Post 15415756)
i'm assuming you reprogrammed your car? just find someone that knows how to use NCS and have them code your car to enable the highs again. otherwise, you just have to do the bixenon retrofit, but instead of using that to activate the solenoid, you use it to activate the inner highs. either way will work.


Thanks Sillie for responding. I never reprogrammed my car, I am second owner so it is possible something has been done before me. High beams are never on as I've seen some that are on acting as day time lights.

I'll research what u said about the NCS, or bixenon retrofit. Is this to technical for the average joe? Or should I say is they a special tool u will need to activate the high beams?

Slick-Vic 05-11-2013 07:31 PM

Pluged in the wire adaptor that went into the oem ballast into the ddm slim

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...ast-35W-or-55W

Do I need a splitter or something or a reprogramming

sillieidiot 05-12-2013 07:06 AM

for NCS, you need the software and cable. then need to learn it. i would just look for a fanatic in your area that already knows how to do it. the bixenon retro, the average joe can do. it just takes awhile.

but it sounds like you had OEM bixenons in the first place from your last post?

Slick-Vic 05-13-2013 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sillieidiot (Post 15416698)
for NCS, you need the software and cable. then need to learn it. i would just look for a fanatic in your area that already knows how to do it. the bixenon retro, the average joe can do. it just takes awhile.

but it sounds like you had OEM bixenons in the first place from your last post?

Yes, original oem bixenons that's why I don't understand what I'm missing or doing wrong. Seems like no one else has this issue. Should the ddm slims be a plug and play with no high beam conversion needed?

sillieidiot 05-13-2013 08:39 PM

well the problem is that, with OEM bixenons, the power for the highs go through the OEM ballast and then activates the shutter. because you bypassed that, there's no connection anymore. you can go ahead and rewire it to work if you want. the aftermarket are just plug n play for the lows only.

Slick-Vic 05-13-2013 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sillieidiot (Post 15420947)
well the problem is that, with OEM bixenons, the power for the highs go through the OEM ballast and then activates the shutter. because you bypassed that, there's no connection anymore. you can go ahead and rewire it to work if you want. the aftermarket are just plug n play for the lows only.

Do you have any write ups for rewiring the highs? Or is there any wiring kits for this offered? What would you recommend for the quickest easy fix? Thanks for your input!

Slick-Vic 06-06-2013 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slick-Vic (Post 15421088)
Do you have any write ups for rewiring the highs? Or is there any wiring kits for this offered? What would you recommend for the quickest easy fix? Thanks for your input!

Anyone have anything to show me how I could retire my high beams? Write up or video.


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