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-   -   best line to rca converter? (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=682182)

wasp9166 06-11-2009 11:49 AM

best line to rca converter?
 
for hooking up basslink, is the sven2 the best option?

danielkspencer 06-11-2009 12:36 PM

I tested several amps hooked directly up to the rear channel lines pre factory amp and didn't find one yet that needed one. The "balanced differential signal" seems to work fine with almost any amp. I know most people will tell you otherwise but try it out for yourself before you waste money. I'm using a Pioneer now, but I even tried it with a cheep ass bazooka and didn't need one. I just spliced in and hooked up to the RCA inputs. I tried it on the amp's speaker level input as well but it wasn't strong enough.

Have you already bought the basslink????

For the money you can do way better with a hell of a lot more bass. If you don't mind it taking up a little more room.

wasp9166 06-11-2009 02:19 PM

no i havent, but i wanted a self amped, i do my own installs, my girl has a bazooka in her car with a rock/fos amp i installed, its ok but............i dont really wana go amp and box, i think its too much for this car and im not looking for obnoxious thump, just enuff so i can lower the bass output to the smaller speakers

danielkspencer 06-11-2009 04:42 PM

I had the bazooka BTA10200 self amped 200 watt in my 330. It worked great. Nothing like what I have now but for what you want sounds perfect. Didn't need a converter by the way. I used the speaker level input on it, but either works fine.

wasp9166 06-11-2009 06:22 PM

yeah, i see the freq response of the basslink is much better 20-120hz

bta is 35-250hz


have you heard both?

you dont think the rca would be cleaner?

danielkspencer 06-12-2009 02:58 PM

I think the Bazooka has more db though. Check it out. I've heard the basslink isn't enough. We've started selling systems like mine for 475 shipped. It's the same install as the basslink would be and it rocks. Awesome frequency response. It's a competition sub and amp all ready to be hooked up. Amp mounted to box and pre wired. Just need pos/neg/remote and speaker. It's perfectly sound matched to the 330i already. 135 db at the front seat. Blends perfectly with the factory system. My friend is a pro sound guy. Not a jerk at a store, I mean a pro installer and designer. He used meters and crap to test my cars response etc. before he ever designed the system. Best I've heard for the money.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=681581

And you Don't need to wast money on a LOC.

The amp we use is a Pioneer Premiere and it uses the Balanced Differential Inputs so it's just like RCA. It's not using Speaker level. You splice into the factory system pre-factory amp to get the signal. That how about everybody does it with the h/k system. You have to do it pre-amp or you get a corrupted signal from the amps crossovers. It's easy dude. I can walk you through it. We even send RCA's with ends to plice into the factory system with.

For the difference in money it's a crap load more sound. Literally 4 X louder than the $700 BSW sub that is so popular in these cars.

wasp9166 06-12-2009 03:00 PM

i saw that thread this morn, why put the amp on back of box and in ski pass as opposed to a port ?

im not looking to spend over 2 bills to be honest

98mustangguy 06-12-2009 03:16 PM

system design, car acoustic, reflective sound waves off rear wall off trunk effectively using trunk to further amplify sound transmission. works very well, that said my audi has kicker solo baric l7's in a ported box with the speakers facing into trunk and ports coming out back side into cabin, sounds very nice too.

98mustangguy 06-12-2009 03:30 PM

btw the basslink sounds ok. its not a huge bandpass boomer, but it does add some low end kick. you dont need large speakers/large amps unless you expect alot. like i just put 2 jl audio 6w0 6" subs in a box no bigger than a shoe box with a 240 watt autotek amp in the wifes honda and she couldnt be happier with it and it cost all of about $315 for material and all. same for the bass link, will it give you some low end kick yes, will it blow your ear drums no, will it be heard a mile away no, is it a decent budget upgrade yes. that said it doesnt have enough output for my tastes, but i like each drum hit to feel like someone just crushed my chest in with the heel of their boot. I likes sealed boxes hate ported and bandpass as sloppy distorted boomy bass drives me nuts. i have heard bazookas and way back when i had a rockford fosgate bass tube and must say that they do have a decent amount of sound output. my advice to you would be to save up say another 50-100 and put in a decent 8-10" sub and 250-350 watt amp. for only a few dollars more you will be happier.

wasp9166 06-12-2009 04:06 PM

oh ive had a r/f 15" sub in a honda b4.....................just seems like it would be too much in this car.........

danielkspencer 06-12-2009 05:36 PM

I agree with Mustang on that. We put 2 elemental design 6's in a smallish box and it's unreal for the size/power ratio. Also, agree with the reason to put the sub facing back. And never never put one sideways. Don't agree with the sealed boxes knock though. Just personal preference I like sealed and sealed isn't always sloppy by any means. Depends on if it's built right, the sub type, power, etc. Sealed takes more power and if you go sealed it should be done with a sub that is meant to be in a sealed box. I think the 200w bazooka is a good choice if you don't want to spend the extra on one of our setups. You need the extra db to get into the cabin in cars like ours. But honestly, even though the tube was ok in mine. It wasn't worth the money for the little bit of difference it made. I would spend a little more and get something bigger. I think the basslink isn't as loud as the 200w 10" bazooka so you may be wasting your money on that. We took the Bazooka out of my car and built a box for it with perfect specs for the sub (tested the exact sub on the computer, not relying on factory specs) and made it 7db louder using the same 200w amp. Now that says something for a custom made enclosure that is matched to the specific sub. Food for thought.

98mustangguy 06-12-2009 10:45 PM

i agree and yes ported sounding sloppy is a generic generalization of the average store built box tht 99.5% of people would end up getting. Think about it even people who go to the local audio shop for the most part get a sub, in whatever supplier generic box they use. Some places do their work but 80% of shops have the 16 yrs old "pro" installer take generic box a slap generic sub b in it and tell ya its the perfect combo. Once again just giving a generic generalization of what 90+% of people can expect to get sound wise from the box type they pick. Yes i have custom tuned slot ported kickers custom tuned for my audi and they sound great. but as a generalization i prefer sealed boxes, and no tuning in the world can make a bandpass sound good as far as im concerned. Other thing that i forgot to mention and once again none of this applies to professionally tuned set-ups, but rather your off the shelf generic set-up that your typical "auto sound" shop will sell you is the possibility of port noise. Way back when i was a teen i remember a friend pickingup a custom built (lol) box (bs from a bs shop) and when it hit his damn ports sounded like someone kept farting in the trunk. I would still suggest going a bit bigger than the infinity or bazooka, as its prob better to have a bit more than you wanted than no wheres near enough. Sorry im picky, most my cars have run custom tuned sq set-ups, ive acquired an ear for them so now 90% of systems sound like ass to me. Try out one of Dan's sub set-ups, he's trying to hook you guys up and get something going. Dan maybe you and your bud should try to set up a group buy. Im sure a few of the guys here would pick one up.

danielkspencer 06-14-2009 12:25 AM

Thanks for the pitch dude. Yeah, I think for the money you can't beat it. So, is the Bazooka louder than the Basslink or not??? I know if the Basslink isn't louder then you probably will feel you wasted your money with the small amount of difference. I originally bought my Bazooka for my E class and honestly you couldn't even tell it was there. Those cars transfer no sound from the trunk. I put it in my Jeep and it rocked. Then I set up a custom SPL type box with 2 8s and it rocked until I put it in the trunk. So, even though a 3 isn't as soundproof as an e class, you better get something that is pretty good to be happy with it or you'll just be wasting your money. These cars aren't like putting subs in hatchbacks. lol

BTW what is the best LOC for these cars???? I think that was the original ? And I hear it so much I'm getting curious.

If you're interested in one of our systems drop me a PM, dude. They are solid and well worth the money. High quality hand made comp sub is bullet proof, too. I need to post a pic of one out of the box to show off the massive motor/magnet. The sub alone retails for 275.00 The Amp is like 154.00 and we're selling the box, amp, and sub for 475.00 and that includes shipping. Ready to hookup and pound

Attaus 06-14-2009 12:39 AM

I'm kind of in the same situation, where I don't want something too loud, but I want good bass. My motto is, if it's too loud you can turn it down, but if it's too quiet you can't turn it up. You don't want to spend $500 and be disappointed with it.

Personally I want Alpine because I trust them and they build quality products at a decent price. I need to change my sig, but I'm currently looking at a 12" Type R/MRP 500. I want everything up front to be stock, so I'm planning on wiring a bass knob to the front. R's are known for being tight and accurate, yet can be pushed and shake the windows. I can turn it down for daily use and crank it up when I'm listening to rap with friends on a Friday/Saturday night.

When it's the same price, I would rather have the ability to do both then limit myself to only clean bass.

danielkspencer 06-14-2009 10:47 AM

Here is some of the info on the Sub/Box/Amp setups we are selling Quoted from the Designer in another post. Just to give you an idea of the thought we put into custom making it for these BMWs.

"the woofer is rated at 600rms and 3kWatts for 3sec (Sine Wave) it boasts an Fs of 32Hz once broken in and a Sensitivity of 89.7dB 1w/1m and a low Q to accommodate a slow roll-off for better low end extension and a super low Mms for tight punchy capabilities in the 45-50Hz range."

"The interior of a BMW e46 has a slight dip around 34Hz before returning to the gain side as the freq both decreases and increases, since there is no such thing as perfect box volume and the only real thing affected by altering the amount of net volume in the enclosure is usable bandwidth and power handling of the sub, I used enough volume to allow a trough in sound reproduction between 40Hz and 55Hz (a benefit of low Qts drivers in some situations) where the cabin resonance was most sympathetic and tuned the box to have gain at the cars main loss freq of 34Hz. Meaning this: Less EQ is needed to achieve an output close to flat response and with the efficiency of the woofer being that high higher sound pressure is also not to hard to achieve. "

The woofers are hand made in TN for competitions. The specs on them are unreal for such a bulletproof speaker.

Still curious. Anyone know if the Basslink is actually louder than the 200w 10" Bazooka or not? (I'm too lazy to look it up myself)
How much are the Basslinks now anyway? I know the BSW sub that is mounted on the bottom of the rear deck lid is way overpriced unless you just want to have the trunk space and don't mind spending 700.00 on something that sounds like 300.00. It's is a pretty nice install, though, if you value space.

98mustangguy 06-14-2009 12:34 PM

i cant imagine the basslink being louder, after all its comparing a bandpass to a sealed of which bandpass are 2 times as loud while sealed are 2 times as clean, but require 2x the power or cone space. Dont forget a general rule of thumb is basically like a 3-4db increase is theoretically accepted as being about the same as doubling your wattage. the bass link has a bigger sub but approx the same wattage. It may be close but i would have to think the bazooka would be louder. Couple that with the fact bazooka has been making tubes for 20+ years they got some serious knowledge going on with the tuning of them. That said i would be dissappointed having either of them in my ride, and believe you will be better off going with a bigger sub/amp combo. you can get more bang for the buck, and not have to feeling later on you should of gotten something bigger. That said best loc, well if everything else is stock and your using a bass tube or basslink well go with the $20 schoscheor whatever. If you are upgrading everything and want the best sound, i have to give a plug for audio control, they make super solid proccessors. That said not all amps require a loc, look at amp specs and see if it can take roughly a 8 volt balanced signal. Most high quality amps can handle it, as back when only sound stream and a few others accepted balanced line, but evolution coupled with the mass push on line drivers and such has shown most amp companies to raise the bar, so now a days most(not all) amps will be able to handle the signal. BTW, since i gave a plug for audio control, any product they make can accept just about any signal you could dream of throwing at it.

danielkspencer 06-14-2009 04:50 PM

Yeah, so if the Basslink isn't louder than the Bazooka don't waste your money. Even though it has more response it's not going to be loud enough to really hear it in the trunk.

Get you a high quality single ten in a good box that's matched perfectly to your car. God, but where could you find something like that at a great introductory price ??????? lol Sorry had
to do a little more shameless self promotion.

Unless trunk space is an issue it's by far the b est bang for the buck. We use a 1.43 cubic foot box.

radarcontact 06-15-2009 11:22 PM

What is the best LOC to hook up a basslink, a high quality unit from a respectable mid-fi company? How about the one that is built-in the unit from the factory?

(I don't understand this obsession with aftermarket LOCs...are people under the impression that they are better, or just don't understand what they do?)

scottys209 06-16-2009 05:04 AM

There are differences in LOC's, no necessarily differences you will notice at the level of equipment you are running. I believe daniel has good luck with the pioneer premier amp he's running without an LOC, and not running an LOC is ideal, the least amount of components between the source and the driver the better. Even if you don't buy daniel's whole setup, I would get with him to find out what amp he is using as a sure-fire way to go for not needing an LOC. I'm honestly not sure why everyone is so determined why you would need it, you can tap into the outputs before the factory amp, I'm pretty sure with most decent aftermarket amps, and it has been shown to work. I would however tap into the low level inputs before the amp, that are for the rear channel speakers, just because you will be pulling from the pre-amp voltage a bit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by radarcontact (Post 10142098)
What is the best LOC to hook up a basslink, a high quality unit from a respectable mid-fi company? How about the one that is built-in the unit from the factory?

(I don't understand this obsession with aftermarket LOCs...are people under the impression that they are better, or just don't understand what they do?)


BmwAudio32 06-16-2009 08:21 AM

The built in "LOC" of the Basslink II works perfectly. I felt my Basslink, when paired with my factory H/K system, actually "seemed" to have near the same output as my massive ported box and 12 inch sub i've got back there now with my entire aftermarket setup. I actaully would have kept it after going up to aftermarket amp and speakers, however I started trying to run it off the RCA outputs of my Audiocontrol LC6i, and it seems the Basslink's RCA inputs are very sensitive and can only accept 4v input max. Since I wanted to set the loc to be giving off more like 7 to 8 v to the component speakers amp, I could never get it to balance right. The speaker level input, however, on the Basslink can take up to 15 volts or something like, and as such worked perfectly when connected that way. I'd highly recommend it for factory setups.


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