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-   -   Thoughts on this E46 330xi? (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=697668)

psucelticXI 08-11-2009 05:08 PM

Thoughts on this E46 330xi?
 
I just saw an '01 330xi with 70k miles on Craigslist, the private seller was originally asking $10900, but is now asking $11,400. It has the premium/sports/cold weather packages.

When the price was originally $10900, the previous buyer had asked that the following maintenance be performed:
-New BMW front badge (The plastic coat from the front badge was ripped)
-New brakes and rotors on all four wheels
-New engine sensor and temperature sensor

The deal fell through with the previous buyer since they couldn't get approved for a loan from their bank. I could pay in full if needed, but since I wouldn't want to take that amount out in cash, I'd probably go with a certified check or money order.

Details from the email conversation so far:
--He's not an enthusiast
--He has "most, if not all inspection / service records"
--Last oil service was 2000 miles ago

--No work done on the cooling system
--Had work done on the shocks/coil
--Hasn't had any issues with window regulators yet

--Tires need replacement
--Battery replaced "as the old one ran dead just 2 days ago"

When asked if he brought it in for inspection II, here is what he said:
"I don't remember bringing it in for Inspection II, so probably not yet. But I had the full brakes and rotor done once at Inspection I (at no cost) and again last winter ($1800)."


Thoughts?

MachRc 08-11-2009 05:10 PM

too expensive. Id pass. Gratz on the first post..

psucelticXI 08-11-2009 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MachRc (Post 10447245)
too expensive. Id pass. Gratz on the first post..

Thanks.

What price do you think would be fair?

samandy121 08-12-2009 10:45 AM

He is asking too much. Try to negotiate up to $9000.

psucelticXI 08-12-2009 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samandy121 (Post 10450979)
He is asking too much. Try to negotiate up to $9000.

Would the previously "torn badge", lack of inspection II and other needed maintenance items deter anyone from this deal?

Is $9000 the consensus for what you guys think this car is worth in a private party sale?

habbyguy 08-12-2009 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psucelticXI (Post 10447234)
I could pay in full if needed, but since I wouldn't want to take that amount out in cash, I'd probably go with a certified check or money order.

I'd recommend meeting him at a branch of your bank when you "do the deal" - that way you can go in and get the certified check / money order, etc... and the buyer has NO qualms about the validity. This is also a HUGE selling (errr, buying...) point with a motivated seller (no games, no drama, buyer has the cash in hand). It'll also give you the opportunity to get the sales receipt and/or title stamped by a notary (different states have different requirements, but it's nice to have a "one-stop shop" to get it all done).

I'm not tracking the pricing close enough to claim any particular expertise, but the price sounds at least in the ballpark, providing the car is in really nice shape (no dings other than the inevitable stone chips on the front bumper, etc.). It really comes down to what's important to you, and what it's worth. I would try to either verify that the Inspection II work really WAS done (even if the seller doesn't recognize the term "Inspection II") - OR - I'd use it as a negotiation tool (do some research on what a dealer charges to do the I2, and use that as a "baseline discount", and then buy the stuff needed and DIY!). :idea:

Good luck - hope it works out for you!

psucelticXI 08-13-2009 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by habbyguy (Post 10452706)
I'd recommend meeting him at a branch of your bank when you "do the deal" - that way you can go in and get the certified check / money order, etc... and the buyer has NO qualms about the validity. This is also a HUGE selling (errr, buying...) point with a motivated seller (no games, no drama, buyer has the cash in hand). It'll also give you the opportunity to get the sales receipt and/or title stamped by a notary (different states have different requirements, but it's nice to have a "one-stop shop" to get it all done).

I'm not tracking the pricing close enough to claim any particular expertise, but the price sounds at least in the ballpark, providing the car is in really nice shape (no dings other than the inevitable stone chips on the front bumper, etc.). It really comes down to what's important to you, and what it's worth. I would try to either verify that the Inspection II work really WAS done (even if the seller doesn't recognize the term "Inspection II") - OR - I'd use it as a negotiation tool (do some research on what a dealer charges to do the I2, and use that as a "baseline discount", and then buy the stuff needed and DIY!). :idea:

Good luck - hope it works out for you!

I don't think they have any branches of my bank up in Boston, but this was a good post... Thanks.

Any other follow up questions I should ask this guy?

Kubica 08-13-2009 11:00 AM

The dead battery may be a sign of things to come. I never trust used cars that just got a new battery.

Remember to check front CV boots and rear springs should have been replaced by now.

If you buy it replace the fuel and air filters, plugs, oil (unless you know what kind it has). Expect window regulators to fail eventually, not a big deal. Coolant system is a bigger deal.

If it idles and drives nice, has new brakes, needs tires and probably control arms and bushings, around 10K seems like a fair price.

ZHPEE 08-13-2009 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kubica (Post 10456580)
The dead battery may be a sign of things to come. I never trust used cars that just got a new battery.

Remember to check front CV boots and rear springs should have been replaced by now.

If you buy it replace the fuel and air filters, plugs, oil (unless you know what kind it has). Expect window regulators to fail eventually, not a big deal. Coolant system is a bigger deal.

If it idles and drives nice, has new brakes, needs tires and probably control arms and bushings, around 10K seems like a fair price.


I wouldn't worry about the battey. If that's the first battery that's no big deal. Or even the second. That's a 2001 car...... 8 almost 9 years year old. A typical battery only lasts on average, 4-6 years. BMW recommends changing the battery every 5-6 years. I myself go by the 4-5 year rule. I've had batteries die within 1 year before just from bad cells and it being a bad battery. It happens.

If you're concerned ask him how many batteries its had...... not sure if you'll get an honest answer but atleast you'll get an answer. I wouldn't let a dead battery worry you though.

I'd recommend getting the car looked over by an indy mechanic anyway........having a mechanic look it once over is fairly inexpensive compared to what you're spending. I wouldn't take it to the stealer for a look over......they overcharge for everything. Indy's are just as experienced if not more, and they charge less to boot. Just make sure they specialize in BMW.....I'm not talking about a Ford Indy here......hehe.


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