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-   -   Please help! Eml+asc light=broken car!!!! (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=708686)

DrkSide_RbL 09-26-2009 06:13 PM

Please help! Eml+asc light=broken car!!!!
 
hello everyone...I have a 99' 328i 5 spd sedan that I was driving to work last week (not driving hard or anything) and all of a sudden it just started sputtering and had no throttle response. I looked at the RPM coz i thought it stalled out but the engine was still running and the RPM was steady. No response from the gas pedal tho. I pulled over and shut off the car for a couple minutes. Turned it back on and was able to sputter w/ the throttle jerking up and down into a parking lot. The EML & ASC(traction control) light turned on during this whole craziness.

After 10 minutes i restarted the car again and the lights were gone and I was able to drive the car for a few minutes then the same thing happened all over again. Eventually I had to get the car towed and obviously was late to work. :banghead::ben:

Prior to this my check engine light had already been on with only one code P0101 - Mass or Volume air flow circuit range/ performance problem. I've tried several things to fix it but it continues to remain on. I don't know if the check engine light was related to this new problem.

What I replaced prior to this problem happening:
-brand new MAF sensor, ripped air intake boot, updated cam and exhaust position sensors, spark plugs.

These replacements helped reduce a bunch of codes down to only 1 code from the check engine light. Even after replacing these parts I would still feel like the car was misfiring or not running on full horses. It would come and go. I especially felt it on the freeway when i step on the pedal.

I've done some research on possible causes of this problem but i couldn't really narrow it down because there were too many possible causes.

OBDII Codes that came up after this problem:
P0601 - Internal Control Module memory check sum error
P1542 - Pedal position sensor electrical

Questions that can help me troubleshoot:
- Does the regular 3 series have 3 TPS (throttle position sensors) like the M3s?
- What does EML and ASC stand for exactly?
- Where is the pedal position sensor located on a 328i?

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated! My car is now just sitting till I get this problem fixed. :tsk:

justin0o 09-26-2009 08:52 PM

EML- engine electronics- there is a fault in the engine's electronic control system. The engine can be driven with reduced engine output and rpms.

Is asc related to your abs? Im not sure

maybe a sensor went bad

goodluck

DrkSide_RbL 10-01-2009 12:22 AM

no advice anyone?? no one knows anything?

Define ///M3 10-01-2009 12:29 AM

bump, i understand the frustration man. ill pray the e46god for you. amen

mack89 10-01-2009 01:00 AM

EML+DSC(ASC) light comes on when the throttle body get stuck. Cheapest way to fix it is 'Throttle body cleaner'. 3M has pretty good throttle body cleaner, get one..
And as far as I know, normal 3' model doesn't have Throttle Position Sensor. I assume e46 3's TB work mechanically, not electronically..Cuz there's no sensor to control that thing!!

runz12s 10-07-2009 05:05 PM

i have the same problem, hopefully that 3m stuff works

DrkSide_RbL 10-10-2009 01:23 PM

thanks for the info mack89..im glad one person out of thousands on this forum can actually offer some help and advice...I actually spent the time to clean out the throttle body and while i was in there i also cleaned out the idle control valve. I used crc throttle body cleaner i got from the local auto shop. I was able to verify that the throttle was indeed sticking by manually opening and closing the throttle with my hand from the engine bay. I cleaned out all the gunk as best as i could but once everything was back in place there was one incident that the problem happened again..i quickly stepped on the gas and it went back to normal. I assume the throttle is still sticking!!! where can i get that 3M stuff? i couldn't find it at kragen.

firefirefire90 10-10-2009 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrkSide_RbL (Post 10742440)
thanks for the info mack89..im glad one person out of thousands on this forum can actually offer some help and advice...I actually spent the time to clean out the throttle body and while i was in there i also cleaned out the idle control valve. I used crc throttle body cleaner i got from the local auto shop. I was able to verify that the throttle was indeed sticking by manually opening and closing the throttle with my hand from the engine bay. I cleaned out all the gunk as best as i could but once everything was back in place there was one incident that the problem happened again..i quickly stepped on the gas and it went back to normal. I assume the throttle is still sticking!!! where can i get that 3M stuff? i couldn't find it at kragen.

you could always have a kink or a fray in the cable. Just something to think about

DrkSide_RbL 10-10-2009 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firefirefire90 (Post 10742455)
you could always have a kink or a fray in the cable. Just something to think about

thanks for the added advice...i checked the cable while i was in there and it seemed kinda loose so i adjusted it to tighten it up...i did find that the throttle was indeed sticking tho so I assume that was what the problem was. When it happened again after cleaning it out code P1580 came up which is "throttle valve mechanically stuck" specifically for bmw's.

mack89 10-10-2009 10:38 PM

Indeed as I thought..CRC would work fine, but it still happens? damn..If you can open and close it manually, then clear all the points that both valves & TB contact each other..If it's mechanically stuck, what you gotta do it JUST CLEAR as much as u can..Use everything u can to clear out those bastards lol. Last option is new throttle body... I hope you won't go that far..:facepalm:

sooper 10-11-2009 08:49 AM

I have been having the same problem with my 323 since i installed the AA SC. I still have the problem after i changed the MAF and DISA valve. Most likely problem (from my search and inquiries here in this forum) vacuum leak, throttle body, cam position sensor, pedal position sensor, ignition coil and cables, battery, MAF, DISA valve or sending unit. Let me know how it works out for you since im having the same dilemma too. Good luck to us

DrkSide_RbL 10-11-2009 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sooper (Post 10745302)
I have been having the same problem with my 323 since i installed the AA SC. I still have the problem after i changed the MAF and DISA valve. Most likely problem (from my search and inquiries here in this forum) vacuum leak, throttle body, cam position sensor, pedal position sensor, ignition coil and cables, battery, MAF, DISA valve or sending unit. Let me know how it works out for you since im having the same dilemma too. Good luck to us

One thing i didn't mention is that this car used to have a SC!!! but it was taken out 25k miles ago and it didn't have this problem until now. What is the DISA valve or sending unit? from what i researched only the M3's have pedal position sensors? The dealer told me there is only one throttle sensor located in the housing of the throttle body which means you would have to buy the whole throttle body at $600 if that were the problem :facepalm:

I've changed the MAF, ripped air boot (air leak), cam & exhaust position sensors, new optima battery, spark plugs, and i noticed one of the ignition coils was changed at some point from previous owner.

But like i said i only started having this problem after i had changed all these parts 5k miles after and these throttle codes are new. I'm pretty sure its the throttle sticking b/c when i cleaned it out the first time the codes went away. I am going to try a second time cleaning it today!

sooper 10-14-2009 08:31 AM

Quote:

One thing i didn't mention is that this car used to have a SC!!! but it was taken out 25k miles ago and it didn't have this problem until now. What is the DISA valve or sending unit? from what i researched only the M3's have pedal position sensors? The dealer told me there is only one throttle sensor located in the housing of the throttle body which means you would have to buy the whole throttle body at $600 if that were the problem

I've changed the MAF, ripped air boot (air leak), cam & exhaust position sensors, new optima battery, spark plugs, and i noticed one of the ignition coils was changed at some point from previous owner.

But like i said i only started having this problem after i had changed all these parts 5k miles after and these throttle codes are new. I'm pretty sure its the throttle sticking b/c when i cleaned it out the first time the codes went away. I am going to try a second time cleaning it today
Its the black box on the intale manifold. also called adjuster unit PN 11611440049 on my car.

gwburke 10-14-2009 10:12 AM

Check your Adjuster Unit (DISA valve)...there's only two T-40 bolts holding it in and you don't have to remove anything else. You'll know right away if that is your culprit.

DrkSide_RbL 10-16-2009 01:50 AM

how do you check the DISA valve and test to see if it's working properly???

gwburke 10-19-2009 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrkSide_RbL (Post 10769445)
how do you check the DISA valve and test to see if it's working properly???

Unplug wire harness, remove the two T-40 bolts, carefully pull Adjuster unit out of intake manifold (you may have to twist it slightly). Thoroughly clean unit with throttle body cleaner, make sure flap has no cracks and that the pin that holds it in is there and secure. Open and close the flap with your finger several times, making sure it has pretty good resistance and goes back to the closed position each time. Once unit is cleaned/checked for defects, re-install. (I recommend a new o-ring and bolts, but to each his own) Obviously replace unit if anything is broken.

I would also recommend that you completely remove your throttle housing assembly and thoroughly clean the backside of it. It's a pain-in-the-arse, but I was shocked at how much build-up mine had on the backside of it when I removed it to do my CCV replacement.

DrkSide_RbL 10-19-2009 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gwburke (Post 10781917)
I would also recommend that you completely remove your throttle housing assembly and thoroughly clean the backside of it. It's a pain-in-the-arse, but I was shocked at how much build-up mine had on the backside of it when I removed it to do my CCV replacement.

See one thing i didn't do was remove the whole throttle housing assembly because yes!...it is a pain in the ass. know of any links for tutorials w/ pics on how to remove this part? i did try to spray throttle cleaner behind the flaps as much as i can and try to clean off the insides and behind the flaps by wiping it with a rag soaked with the throttle cleaner. who knows...there's probably a bunch of build up behind there like you mentioned.

gwburke 10-20-2009 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrkSide_RbL (Post 10785028)
See one thing i didn't do was remove the whole throttle housing assembly because yes!...it is a pain in the ass. know of any links for tutorials w/ pics on how to remove this part? i did try to spray throttle cleaner behind the flaps as much as i can and try to clean off the insides and behind the flaps by wiping it with a rag soaked with the throttle cleaner. who knows...there's probably a bunch of build up behind there like you mentioned.

Find a DIY for the CCV replacement, on the way to doing that job you have to remove the Throttle Housing Assembly. It's only 4 bolts and it comes out pretty easy...it's the getting to it that will be time-consuming.

chimpster7 10-21-2009 02:24 AM

Had same problem... removed throttle body and cleaned it out really good with brake parts cleaner and a brush, worked fine after that BUT there was a period of several weeks that I didn't drive the car... When I finally drove it again, had the same problem. This time I didn't remove it, I just made room to get to it... I realized that I hadn't lubed it up so that it could open and close with more ease. Oh, also I realized the key has to be in the on position (2nd turn I think) in order for the throttle body to move... once I got it to move I sprayed the two sides where it moves from with WD40, maybe not the best way to do it but it worked and the problem hasn't returned.

Jrob1 04-23-2010 11:01 AM

Did you ever find a solution to this? I just ran into the same problem yesterday while I had my car loaded up with all my stuff and in the process of moving. I pulled into an Autozone around the corner and had it scanned and it threw some codes related to the TPS. Tried starting it up again and it was a REALLY rough idle and any pressure on the pedal gave some terrible sounds out of the exhaust. Ended up having to get it towed 90 miles to the nearest BMW dealer and am still waiting for them to call me to tell me what's going on. Hoping they can get it fixed soon! I'm halfway between where I moved from and my new home without a car or anything! Not fun!


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