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-   -   Summer wheels back on + new brakes = vibration and bump steer (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=756358)

Toxic0n 04-13-2010 10:52 AM

Summer wheels back on + new brakes = vibration and bump steer
 
I've put my 18" Hamanns with Nexen tires back on over the weekend. I've also replaced my front brakes with cross drilled rotors and Axxix Ultimate Ceramic pads from r1concepts. I've bedded the brakes correctly. Also, since my tires are directional, I could not rotate them so I just put swapped the fronts and the rears.
The OEM sway bar end links appeared to be leaking - I think they may be incorrect length since my car is lowered. I've installed new Meyle HD FCABs last summer and got an alignment done at that time as well. The car appeared to pull to the left slightly when braking so I assumed it was the brakes.
Right now, when braking over uneven surfaces, there is a slight vibration in the steering wheel (not the pedal) and the wheel will jerk to the right a bit over bumps. It might jerk to the left as well, but I have not driven it that much so I am not too sure.
Any ideas? Should I swap the wheels back? My tie rod ends are still the stock ones, could they, coupled with sway bar end links be causing this?

rowdy lee 04-13-2010 11:54 AM

ummm...
 
you know, the rear tires will have a very different wear pattern than the fronts due to the camber at the rear (even if you have had some dialed out).
Putting the rears to the front may be the problem until a couple thousand have been put on. Air pressures ok?
The wheels/tires were set-up on a Hunter Road-Force system? They need to be fairly perfect, first, you know... With a HRF the tire internals as well as balance/out-of-round or coned tires or bad rims can be diagnosed as well as impossible-to-balance problem tires discovered.

Tie rod ends would allow wheels to move slightly independantly of each other and steer it some... links are mainly in use when cornering to transmit force to the sway bar; not hard to grab ahold and try to move them... BUT, Leaking? Leaking what? OEM bushings, yes. Links no leak.
Have you thought about the steering guibo? Could be a problem... though probly not the main one. Good the front bushings were done... were the arm ball-joints replaced as well?

Did you "work" the pistons some when the brakes were done to ensure good movement/good return?

As far as dropped and link length... idk. I have a PSS system with oem links.

Toxic0n 04-13-2010 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rowdy lee (Post 11602141)
you know, the rear tires will have a very different wear pattern than the fronts due to the camber at the rear (even if you have had some dialed out).
Putting the rears to the front may be the problem until a couple thousand have been put on. Air pressures ok?

Air pressures are OK. You are right, I forgot about the wear patterns. I will swap them back this weekend to see if that helps.
Quote:

The wheels/tires were set-up on a Hunter Road-Force system? They need to be fairly perfect, first, you know... With a HRF the tire internals as well as balance/out-of-round or coned tires or bad rims can be diagnosed as well as impossible-to-balance problem tires discovered.
I actually bought the wheels+tires combo second hand. They were already balanced and I never had any issues with them.
Quote:

Tie rod ends would allow wheels to move slightly independantly of each other and steer it some... links are mainly in use when cornering to transmit force to the sway bar; not hard to grab ahold and try to move them... BUT, Leaking? Leaking what? OEM bushings, yes. Links no leak.
The balljoints in the sway bar end links were leaking...
Quote:

Have you thought about the steering guibo? Could be a problem... though probly not the main one. Good the front bushings were done... were the arm ball-joints replaced as well?
The whole control arm + ball joints were replaced with the Meyle HD ones.
The steering wheel coupler is a good idea. I just read that huge thread and the symptoms are pretty close to what I am experiencing. I ordered the coupler since my car has 190k KM so it probably needs to be done anyway. I also ordered the tie rods so I don't have to pay for shipping twice.

Quote:

Did you "work" the pistons some when the brakes were done to ensure good movement/good return?
Yup, they were smooth as butter.

rowdy lee 04-13-2010 04:48 PM

ok
 
You're on your wayyy...:thumbsup:

botaman 04-13-2010 09:38 PM

It's probably a combination of things in your suspension, but I believe the slotted rotor is your issue.

Slotted rotors are so grabby, that any imperfection in the suspension will amplify.

Toxic0n 04-27-2010 01:35 PM

So I swapped me front/rear wheels and the tramlining is gone - I guess the wear from the camber was the issue. However, the braking vibration is still there. Is it possible for brand new rotors to be warped? Did I screw something up when installing them?

TrippinBimmer 04-27-2010 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toxic0n (Post 11664841)
So I swapped me front/rear wheels and the tramlining is gone - I guess the wear from the camber was the issue. However, the braking vibration is still there. Is it possible for brand new rotors to be warped? Did I screw something up when installing them?

Yes, R1 Concept Quality Control is Garbage...Your not the only one who been having this crazy problem...When did u purchase them? There was a Bad Batch made and sold beginning of the Year...

-TrippinBimmer

Toxic0n 04-28-2010 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrippinBimmer (Post 11664963)
Yes, R1 Concept Quality Control is Garbage...Your not the only one who been having this crazy problem...When did u purchase them? There was a Bad Batch made and sold beginning of the Year...

-TrippinBimmer

I bought them on March 10th this year...

330Lover_ 04-28-2010 03:07 PM

I also think vibration on brake = wrapped rotors. It happened on mine too but my oem rotors were at 90k miles which were very thin already. I changed with the ATE PremiumOne Slotted rotors(from tirerack) and the vibration is gone.
I would re-install the brake pads and have good beding. if the pproblem not solved...you need new rotors. gl

Toxic0n 04-28-2010 03:33 PM

I emailed R1 Concepts, they told me to give the rotors 400-500 to bed and if not to give them a call, cause they have a 1 year warranty. I'll give it another week or so.


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