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-   -   Negative camber question (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=761550)

323tom 05-03-2010 04:27 PM

Negative camber question
 
hey guys so I just ordered a set of UUC front camber plates/Rear adjustable control arms... I will be setting the negative camber to -2 to -2.2 with a 1/16 toe, what as a good camber/toe setting for the front? I will be putting 245/35/19 on the front of my non-m coupe and 275/30/19 btw... thanks!

xixixi 05-03-2010 05:39 PM

anything but a square setup for those alignment numbers will require a constant purchase of tires. I run 2.5 to 3 degrees front camber and i replace tires once a year (that's including all the auto-x and track days.) I can only recommend a square set up with that much neg camber of course if you can afford R compound tires every 6 months by all means who cares what you run!!! Guess I took this thread off the OP's path. DELETE!!!

323tom 05-03-2010 06:24 PM

lol
 
I wont be doing a square setup... tires once a year is fine with me... the negative camber you run is more then I will be running upfront im pretty sure... anyone else? lol

xixixi 05-03-2010 06:38 PM

Roflmao
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 323tom (Post 11693830)
I wont be doing a square setup... tires once a year is fine with me... the negative camber you run is more then I will be running upfront im pretty sure... anyone else? lol

Your first post is very broad to say the least... what alignment system are you going with hunter??? also are you concerned about the OEM weight specs? If not then you will have to adjust your camber/caster/toe custom. As the hunter specs will be off.. If not are you going to include your weight in the drivers seat? are you going for 4 corner balancing? going with a hpf turbo in a 323 i'd assume you wipe ass with 20's ,if thats the case what is the question? what are your goals? it's impossible to give advice on such little info... LOL ASE cert anyone with a better education to help this man :thumbsup: I reread your post and without your intentions it's impossible to give you any accurate assumptions:)

323tom 05-03-2010 10:24 PM

lo
 
lol im no mechanic man, I should probably just have the alignment deal with it I was just wonder what basic camber settings people are running..

DOCTOR 3VIL 05-03-2010 11:20 PM

there is no basic alignment....it all depends what the function of your car is going to be and what offset wheels you have.
If your car is going to be a street car -2 is pretty good enough. If you car is meant mainly for track with 18x10 +25 sqaure wheel set up then at least a -3.5 is necessary. I am assuming you have a ///M BTW.

vndkshn 05-07-2010 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOCTOR 3VIL (Post 11695180)
there is no basic alignment....it all depends what the function of your car is going to be and what offset wheels you have.
If your car is going to be a street car -2 is pretty good enough. If you car is meant mainly for track with 18x10 +25 sqaure wheel set up then at least a -3.5 is necessary. I am assuming you have a ///M BTW.

Yeah, and neg camber doesn't really kill tires like toe does. I run -2.9 in front with 0 toe on the street, and -3.4 in the rear with 1/16 toe in. For the track, I just adjust the front plates out another degree or so and that gives me a little toe out, perfect for track driving.

FTWeisse 05-07-2010 12:38 PM

Try to keep camber as positive as possible on the street; and no more than 1/16 toe in either direction.

schulmann 05-08-2010 05:26 AM

There is a balance between track tire life and road tire life. You have to figure out what is good for you.

I just changed my alignment to -2.5 Front and -1.8 Rear with a KMCA plate (that I really hate).

Before I had -1.4 Front and -1.4 Rear.
I completely destroyed my front tires on track: A set of hoosier and a set of Falken.

This year I am running Toyo R888 and Dunlop star spec Z1.
With the new alignment I have a better grip in the rear when I come out of tight turns.


The front camber is too much for the Toyo unless I heat them up as required.
The problem with the R888 that its operating temperature range is very narrow. They stay easily cold or they overheat.
Next year I will return with the hoosiers.


So the problem with the -2.5 front camber is the loss of braking power ... The ABS gets in very quickly compared to the previous Hoosier/-1.4 setup. However hopefully I will extend the tire life on track.


So your setup seems to be reasonnable if you are doing a couple of track days per year.

bigjae1976 05-08-2010 06:53 PM

If you live in an area with rough roads, even a little toe out on the front is not much fun on the street...HOLD ON!

DOCTOR 3VIL 05-13-2010 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schulmann (Post 11717235)
There is a balance between track tire life and road tire life. You have to figure out what is good for you.

I just changed my alignment to -2.5 Front and -1.8 Rear with a KMCA plate (that I really hate).

Before I had -1.4 Front and -1.4 Rear.
I completely destroyed my front tires on track: A set of hoosier and a set of Falken.

This year I am running Toyo R888 and Dunlop star spec Z1.
With the new alignment I have a better grip in the rear when I come out of tight turns.


The front camber is too much for the Toyo unless I heat them up as required.
The problem with the R888 that its operating temperature range is very narrow. They stay easily cold or they overheat.
Next year I will return with the hoosiers.


So the problem with the -2.5 front camber is the loss of braking power ... The ABS gets in very quickly compared to the previous Hoosier/-1.4 setup. However hopefully I will extend the tire life on track.


So your setup seems to be reasonnable if you are doing a couple of track days per year.

Try the Nitto NT01's they are a lot better than R888.

murph1379 05-13-2010 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schulmann (Post 11717235)
So the problem with the -2.5 front camber is the loss of braking power ... The ABS gets in very quickly compared to the previous Hoosier/-1.4 setup.

You're hitting ABS earlier because you're not on Hoosiers anymore, -2.5 camber is a MUCH smaller difference in terms of braking.


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