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-   -   M3 Competition package brake fade? (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=777321)

Mstearnsy 07-10-2010 08:08 PM

M3 Competition package brake fade?
Hey everyone. Some friends and I ran a "super autocross" on an airport's triple runway setup. I have an E46 M3 with Competition Package (with the larger Euro CSL cross drilled brakes). On a lot of the braking zones I was doing full on braking from up to 120 MPH.

On the first hard lap, a car following me said a big puff of brake dust came out during the hardest stop. After that, I had a bit of a shudder while braking. I let them cool down and the shudder never returned.

After a few more laps with max-attack braking, at one corner my pedal got really soft and my brakes didn't perform nearly as well. I made it around the corner and on the next straight, tried my brakes again and they were definitely faded away. Drove several cool down laps, without braking, and then parked the car.

I could be imagining it but it kind of feels like my brake pedal isn't quite as firm as it used to be a few hours after the track use now. Could the brakes be affected permanently after this kind of aggressive use? Am I just imagining that it's not quite as firm?

I know I'll need new pads and rotors soon anyways as there's 66,000 kms on the original pads and rotors. I'll be installing the stock Competition pkg brakes. I was also considering installing stainless steel brake lines. Are these worthwhile? Should I upgrade the brake fluid? This kind of use is EXTREMELY rare for me but I would like to do it again occasionally. Thanks a lot guys.

mvrk10256 07-10-2010 08:13 PM

slotted rotors and hawk pads are totally gonna cover it,

Mstearnsy 07-10-2010 08:59 PM

I already have Euro cross drilled rotors. Don't slotted and cross drilled accomplish basically the same thing, just different execution?

I should point out that I am a BMW dealer employee, so I get cost on all parts, so I'd prefer to use OEM rotors as I think it will save me tons of $.

Jahan 07-10-2010 09:08 PM

You most likely glazed the pads. OEM pads aren't up to track/autoX use. Get some new rotors and more aggressive pads if you're going to be autoxing often. You might want to inspect your rotors for cracks as well . . . drilled rotors are known to crack with hard use.

bigjae1976 07-10-2010 10:46 PM

I would assume that the last time you bled the brakes was if/when the dealer did it. I would also suspect that your pads are pretty worn. Plus, beginners tend to be a little harder on the brakes since the tendency is to get on the brakes early and stay on them which creates a lot more heat.

So you probably need to do some maintenance on your brakes - fluid/rotors/pads.

I think recommendations for auto-x pads would be different from track pads. I know my PFC01s need a little heat in them before they consistently bite...not sure if you want that for auto-x.

Mstearnsy 07-10-2010 11:43 PM

When I say super-autocross I don't think it resembles anything like a normal autocross. Speeds involved are pretty much like a road course circuit. It was on an airport's runways. I have no interest in auto-crossing in a parking lot, ever. I may do that type of road course driving once or twice a year now since I did have a lot of fun today.

bigjae1976 07-10-2010 11:55 PM

If that is the case, then PFC01s would be a good option. I've seen quite a few track guys that were happy with the Pagids.

Some think the Hawk pads are OK, think think you'll hear a lot of people call them garbage.

I use the PF01s front/PF97s rear. I've never had a brake issue with them.

firefirefire90 07-11-2010 12:00 AM

invest in some stainless steel brake lines and replace your fluid. You were probably toasting your brake fluid man!

Mstearnsy 07-11-2010 12:16 AM

Is new OEM fluid, for free with the scheduled maintenance program, good enough, or should I buy upgraded fluid with higher boiling points?

bigjae1976 07-11-2010 04:07 AM

You'll be fine with the OEM fluid, you'll just need to bleed it frequently. I had to bleed Motul RBF600 after every track event. Which is why I ended up going with Castrol SRF which should last about 12-18 months. Yeah, its $75 a bottle. But if you calculate what Motul (or even OEM brake fluid) was costing me, then SRF turns out to be much cheaper given 4 track events per year. Not to mention the hassle of bleeding your brakes 1 time vrs 6 times.

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