DIY : Secondary Air Pump & Valve
Well my car threw two codes couple of weeks ago, P1421 and P1423 which are related to secondary air pump.
New secondary air pump was too expensive, $300 :eek:..I bought used parts from one of our fanatics, Blocked Out :bow:
And I searched entire forum, but couldn't find any DIYs :banghead:
So I'm writing my first DIY! :pimpin:
Tools that you need:
ratchet wrench and socket extension
*siphon pump(if you are going to remove washer fluid reservoir)
Alright let's start.
1) First, remove the hose clamp and unplug the hose
2) And you're gonna remove secondary air pump unit.
You have to remove 3 nuts (or bolts, my 323 had nuts holding it) to remove air pump unit.
But it's gonna be tricky to remove the bolts/nuts because of this bracket.
Of course you could use combo wrench, but since the space is damn tight, you're gonna have to remove the bracket first. And there's one screw holding this bracket
Unscrew it and remove the bracket.
And removing washer fluid tank will give you MUCH MORE space.
Remove the screw, lift the washer fluid tank and put it somewhere on shock tower IF you are not going to remove the tank completely.
If you are going to, empty the tank with siphon pump first, then remove the tank.
I know, I need to clean them up :censor:
Once the bracket and washer fluid tank are removed, now you have much better access :D
3) Use 10mm socket, remove three 10mm bolts/nuts, they are located under the air pump unit.
Once you remove it, you need to unplug the wire to remove the pump unit completely.
Yeah, idiotic ex-owner just decided to break the plastic bolts, pump was dancing on the bracket. It was sooo easy to remove the pump -_-
4) Now you're going to remove the valve.
Remove a hose clamp and a small hose goes to the valve.
Two 10mm nuts are holding the valve, remove them.
Eww, look how dirty it is :eek:
5) Ok, time to install new parts.
Reverse the process, make sure you install the valve first. Then install air pump, bracket, and connect every hose back. Don't forget about washer fluid tank lol.
Well that's it. It was pretty easy DIY. Now, get some beer and say goodbye to SES light :D
Hope this DIY was helpful! :bow:
I had a SAP issue myself...car would stall when starting. For me, it turned out just to be that the hose from pump to valve had a hole in it (suspect from sucking in vapor with oil in it from leaking vcg...but in any case a hole in that short hose (my hose was rubber; yours looks like a plastic one similar to ccv hose)...anywho...
I removed hose, noticed a ball of gunk had lodged in the inlet to valve...pulled out gunk with dental pick, put a little dab of rtv on the vac line leaving the valve where it had cracked a tiny bit...and all was good.
Oh, I also removed the cover of the pump (three tabs)...saw that the filter was also a little gunked up with oil too...but since I couldn't find just that part I left it...but I had also read of some guy who shot WD40 through pump to clear things up...I wasn't sure if that was a good idea or not, but I did it too...actually, before I replaced the hose...for this lube job...I removed hose from valve, turned on car, sprayed wd40 into pump (with foam filter removed) and aimed the other end of the hose away from car (coz it was spraying wd40 around).
Anyway...that was about a year ago or more I think and I'm still on the road!
Just giving guys something to try before giving up on both pump and valve.
I actually have the new gasket for the valve, but haven't bothered replacing it yet...it's seeping oil a tiny bit (don't tell anyone)...but didn't have right tools to get in there and didn't want to start removing stuff just for that. Now I know how, so thanks for that!
Great thread, I'm adding it to the DIY sticky thread now.
Great thread. Also inspect that rubber pipe. If the inside of it is damaged from oxidisation where it touches the valve, it can leak, leading to blowing exhaust sound when the SAP is running at cold. It's a $10 tube, PN is 11727555680
This hose leaks
Caused by corrosion on the outside of the valve. If it's black in there (combustion residue), that valve isn't closing, and hot gasses are getting up into the SAP and damaging it. This can be cased by a sticking electrical actuator or sticking valve. The electric actuator (a solanoid) I think is wedged round the other side of the engine near the intake.
Clean it with wire wool
Replace the hose if decayed inside.
Yeah using WD40 or some lube will be much much cheaper and effective. I've seen some thread using seafoam to clean up the SAP system, too. SAP system failure is not that common issue, so cleaning it could be the better option.
Before replacing whole SAP system, inspect the hose and replace it if it's damaged. Then as Doug did, you could use some aggressive cleaners such as WD40 or Seafoam to clean them up.
I should add up the cleaning SAP system DIY on this thread. Will work on it soon :thumbsup: Thank you guys!
Great DIY for a non-working secondary air pump. :thumbsup: Under the CPO warranty I had my Secondary Air pump replaced, but continued to throw CEL codes due to low secondary air flow.
If the pump is working, and making the leaf blower sound for 2 minutes after a cold start, use the secondary air pump to blow Seafoam into the exhaust ports and valves. This will clear the secondary air passages enough in the engine to allow the second O2 sensor to detect a higher secondary air flow.
The 540i engine is even more prone to the problem, but here's the general idea of what happens:
The carbon burn off using Seafoam on the secondary air system is huge and has kept the CEL off since I first started this cleaning.
Since the Seafoam can only be blown into the ports while the engine is cold this DIY must be performed as you first start the car in the morning.
Step 1: Remove the clamp from the hose between the secondary air pump and the valve to the engine
Step 2: Pour Seafoam into the hose. The hose will hold just over an ounce of Seafoam.
Step 3: Reconnect the hose and run the car 5 seconds so the air pump blows the Seafoam into the exhaust port.
Repeat this fill and restart 3 more times only running the engine 5 seconds so the secondary air pump runs for the 3 fills.
Then let the engine sit 15 minutes and warm up the car. There will be significant amounts of Seafoam carbon burnoff in the form of white smoke. The carbon burnoff will clean exhaust areas in the path to the O2 sensors that measure secondary air flow.
Great thread! I was just taking pictures of this hose to ask what it was. Mine is completely deteriorated and succumbed to awesome power of one finger press.
What is the failure mode of a SAP or the hose leaking?? What is the function of the part?
Glad I could help :thumbsup:
You can always count on fanatics to help out fanatics.
Thanks I really needed this. Question Where does the little hose on the valve go to ? Its missing on mine http://a.imageshack.us/img718/212/dscf0031w.jpg
How different is this process for the SULEV system? The secondary air pump looks different not to mention the fact that the hoses use the bmw one time/permanant hose clamps.
So, why don't more people delete the sap? Does it truly act just like an EGR setup? On my old 3000GT, I removed the EGR and saw mpg go up. You also have a much cleaner intake tract. I know you would throw a ses light, but still. Just curious.
Those who choose to install things like catless headers tend to remove SAP as well as it simply become useless to them.
It all depends on where you live and what are the regulations for emission tests in your area.
In my area I 'm forced to undergo emission test every 2 years and if I want my car to be road legal I must have SAP at the time of the test.
goes all the way behind your engine all the way through your intake manifold. Access is very limited. You need to remove your cabin filter housing, engine cover and trace it behind the firewall you won't be able to see it you just have to feel it. Good luck!
This DIY is very helpful. I am trying to track a problem. Symptoms are intermittent rough idle, sometimes at start, sometimes not - also happens under any kind of stress, i.e. going up a hill, etc. Once it starts running rough, it won't clear itself until car is turned off and restarted. I was thinking vacuum leak so replaced ccv and hoses. One hose had hole and leaking oil, so that was worth the effort but did not fix problem.
I tried the Seafoam procedure just as you explained and I noticed that the fluid is not emptying from hose. I connected back up and let it idle for 12-15 mins. and still in hose. Drove for about 15 mins. (still running rough) checked again when I returned and still full of the Seafoam fluid. No white smoke at idle or while driving.
Would this seem to indicate bad or clogged SAP?
I took it to dealer out of desperation because I need to get to work and back and it's been too cold to spend much time on it. Dealer said something like low pressure on lifters causing misfire on all cylinders. Said that the cam needs to be pulled and rebuilt with new lifters and other stuff... whopping cost of *$5,200*. Car runs really well when it's running, but I think that the computer is compensating for a too lean or rich condition.
I am going to invest in the Peake code reader, but that will have to wait until after Christmas this year. Thanks in advance for any help...
BTW, the mechanic at the stealership was nice enough to offer me $1,000 to take the car off my hands. Once I fix this problem I'm going to register a complaint to BMW of America, but I need to find and fix the problem first.
^ you can only do this procedure with a cold engine otherwise the SAP will not turn on. When doing this procedure it is vital that for each fill you leave the engine on for no more than 5 seconds max or else the SAP will not turn on after the second and third fill.
If there is no noticeable whining sound coming from the pump on a cold start then its not working and you need a new SAP.
Before doing mine I had a list of 8-9 codes being thrown relating to o2 sensors, low secondary air flow, catalytic converter efficiency, and miss-fires on multiple cylinders. After replacing my SAP and the seafoam treatment all is back to normal :thumbsup:
Oh and you should really look into finding a good trustworthy mechanic as you will pay a fortune at the dealer
All I can add to what vander's post is that when the engine is cold, and the SAP blows Seafoam into the exhaust ports of the engine, that passages will open up and increase the pressure on the lifters. Let the car sit after the 3rd fill and be prepared to repeat the Seafoam treatment over several days until the white smoke carbon burn off lessens.
Thanks for the information. I did try the procedure just as explained the first time with a cold engine (not driven in a day cold) and did not get much Seafoam in the line, nor did I get the white smoke. So letting it sit over night, I thought I would try again. After reading another post here, DMAX mentioned a clogged hose. So I removed the hose to check for any blockages or holes. When I removed it, liquid spilled out, but the hose was in good shape and not blocked. I put it back on and filled the tube with Seafoam. I started the car and I wish I had a picture of the white smoke that came out of the tail pipe -- it was unbelievable. I let is idle for about 10 minutes and the smoke eventually cleared. Then I went for a drive. Drove perfect for about half mile and started misfiring again.
I think that I will try this again tomorrow and also listen for the whining pump sound on cold start. Thanks for the good advice. I will continue to chase this and post my eventual findings. I just hate to start replacing a bunch of good parts, but I am convinced that the issue is fairly minor.
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