*** The New Unofficial: Automatic ---> 6 speed (ZHP Tranny) swap!!! - LOTS OF PICS
First off, I would like thank Neil1138, ivegotissues666, and xmltok. Without their DIY’s and information from posts I probably wouldn’t have decided to do this. My intention with this DIY thread is not to dwell on what has already been covered but to share my experience, reinforce things I found necessary, point out differences in my conversion, and above all explain the wiring piece well.
Second, if you are fairly skilled mechanically, can assemble Legos, and have a desire to solve complex puzzles, you will probably do well at this. While you don’t have to be an OCD perfectionist, it might help.
Before you get started there are several things you must do, no matter whether want to or not. If you plan on doing this yourself you must research realOEM.com and find out mechanically where all these pieces are and why you need them. As model years progressed, some parts on the cars also changed slightly so the parts required may be slightly different from one build to another. Know your own vehicle well prior to starting.
Overall once I got started this took be 4 days. I did all the work myself, with a few emails between knowledgeable members.
The obligatory disclaimer – Sadly, in our lawsuit happy world I am forced to do this so you may skip past this but it still applies.
I am not responsible for any thing you do to your car, and cannot be held liable for any damage you may do by reading this article and applying it to your car.
If you take this task on you are presumed to have a fair level of mechanical or auto electrical skill and if not don’t do it. I shall not in any way be held responsible for any damage resulting from fault or failure to follow the suggested steps proposed. It is your responsibility to research this project thoroughly and validate the DIY. There may be technical inaccuracies within this subject matter. I am in no way liable for this. Do you own research to make certain that the information is accurate. In some cases the change from one month to another will result in a difference in your car from this DIY and may cause an inaccuracy.
All information posted in this write-up is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information.
My vehicle is a MY2002/01 (January) coupe. Because I’m using the non-M 6-speed used in MY2003/03 to MY2006/05 coupes I chose to lookup parts on realOEM.com from a MY2005/05 coupe (arbitrary) to reference what was required.
There are four major components that will be the bulk of the cost. You must know going into this conversion that the ZF GS6-37 series of 6-speed transmissions are not inexpensive of themselves and the remaining components are also more expensive than their 5-speed counterparts.
Do your homework and determine what type of flywheel and clutch you want, stock vs. performance. There are always tradeoffs between the two, read up and learn why you would choose one over the other. Source the transmission, and all of the major parts; plan on putting some evenings into this part of the project. I found Excel to be very handy at cataloging everything I determined to be necessary, tracking what was ordered, and received. This is no small task.
While not necessary, something I have found to be useful in many cases is to order one additional bolt, nut, washer. This type of component is fairly inexpensive (compared to time) and if you drop one and can’t find it, beats ordering another or an additional trip to the dealer. It’s your build, you be the judge.
Tools you will need:
4 Jack-stands (desired), a pair of Jack-stands and a pair of ramps (works)
A floor jack – you’re already spending good money on the tranny – buy a good low profile jack
Oil drain pan
Oil Containers – Arizona Ice Tea 1 gallon containers work well – plastic gallon milk carton for funnel
8 rolls of blue paper shop towels (indispensable)
3/8” socket set, metric: 9mm-18mm (note – no missing sizes – some sets are missing 11mm & 16mm)
3/8” deep well socket set, metric: 10mm-19mm (note – 19mm for reverse switch)
Open end wrenches, metric: 7mm-18mm
Torx bolt sockets, metric: E10, E12, E14, E16 (note – these are the reverse of Torx drivers)
Allen sockets, metric: 5mm, 6mm, and 8mm
Torx drivers, metric: T-15, T-20, T-25
3/8” socket handle
3/8” universal joint
3/8” torque wrench
3/8” extensions (20”, 12”, 8”, 4” will all be useful)
A cutoff saw – Dremel or ¼” grinder with cutoff blade
Soldering Iron & rosin core solder
Assorted pliers, vice grips, etc.
2 lb sledge hammer (gentle persuader)
Tools you may wish you had:
Air hammer (I found this to be nearly required)
3/8” pneumatic Socket Driver (this is a tremendous time saver)
3/8” crows foot socket set, metric: 10mm-18mm (handy for some hard to reach places)
1/2” socket set, 9mm to 24mm
1/2” socket handle
1/2” breaker bar (this is extremely useful for the bolts on the CV joint at the diff for removal)
1/2” torque wrench
About this conversion:
Vehicle: 2002, 330Ci - build date 2002/01
Automatic Transmission: ZF 5HP-19
Flywheel: JB Racing Lightweight Flywheel
Clutch: UUC Performance Organic
Shifter: BMW Performance Shifter & BMW ZHP shift knob
Manual Transmission: ZF GS6-37BZ
The ZF GS6-37BZ is the transmission installed in E46 330's and E60 525's and 530's using the M54 based motor.
Transmission: $1,700 shipped, used (19,000 miles) - Pam's Auto
Driveline: $180 shipped, used (19,000 miles) - forum member
Clutch: $590 shipped, new, UUC Performance Organic sprung hub
Flywheel: $400 shipped, used, JB Racing lightweight flywheel
Shifter: $150 shipped, used, BMW Performance shifter
Misc: $540 shipped,Brake pedal, ZHP weighted shift knob, shift boot, clutch pedal, clutch hydraulics, fluids, nuts, bolts
Excel Spreadsheet with all the parts by catagory, part numbers, quantity, MSRP, and Tischer's price (as of 3/2010).
BEFORE YOU START
Find yourself a nice dry place to do the work I used my garage but some will do this outside. Regardless I would recommend a good supply of cardboard. You are going to spill oil, ATF, and brake fluid - you can't avoid it.
The first thing I did was to climb under the car and become familiar with what you are going to do. This is a pretty big job so scope it out the night before you start. Take some PB Blaster and spray your exhaust flange nuts down and leave them overnight.
NEXT DAY - BEGIN
REMOVE THE DRIVERS SEAT!
I know that ivegotissues666 and neil1138 did this differently. Jared removed the seat and Neil wished he'd just done it anyway. The 15 minutes it takes to remove the seat will give you back at least a half hour in ease of installation, not to mention sanity. Honestly I can't see doing it any other way. I didn't take pictures but it's super-easy. Slide the seat back to reveal the front rail nuts, remove the caps, remove the nuts. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY - Negative terminal (so you don't set off the SRS light when you take the connector apart under the seat). Remove the rear rail nuts. Tilt the seat back and disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the seat. WOW - what an opportunity to clean!!!
^ Remove the exhaust flange nuts (15mm) but don't separate the joint. Next support the exhaust, and by the way, this mofo is heavy! Move to the rear of the car. . If your car has the exhaust silencer, remove the rubber hose. Next remove the two supports at the rear of the car that hold the muffler assembly up. Now, drop the exhaust and find someplace out of the way to put it.
^ Remember to disconnect that useless vacuum hose (golf-T mod). Mine was burnt by the exhaust.
^ Exhaust down.
Next - Remove all of the heat shielding under the car - you don't need to remove the stuff up by the engine bay. No pictures... easy to do.
REMOVE THE DRIVE LINE
^ The six E-10 (reverse Torx) bolts that attach the driveline CV joint to the driveline will require a breaker-bar to remove them.
^ The guibo/flex-coupler needs to be disconnected next but it is easiest to support the tranny and remove the rear transmission support brace first.
^ With the transmission supported you can remove the support brace.
^ With the support brace out of the way, remove the nuts from the bolts on the guibo. I removed the guibo from the transmission. Next remove the center support – sorry no picture but if you’re doing this you’ll get the idea easily.
^ Now move to the back of the driveline, to the CV joint at the differential. This part drove me a little crazy at first. I could not get the CV joint separated. There are pry points but I found them to be all but useless. It’s in there very, very tight. I pulled out the air hammer, went back to the pry point, and in 10 seconds I had it out – YES! Nice and Clean.
^ Next pull the bolts out of the quibo. Note - there is a nipple on the transmission output shaft for the guibo to rest on so it won’t just come flying out at you when you remove the bolts. Next remove the center support using some caution because if you aren’t supporting the driveline it could fall out at this point and you may be directly under it. Now you can remove and pull the driveline out.
^ Here the drivelines are side by side. The auto driveline is shorter.
^ Next you need to get the motor bay set up to allow the tranny and engine to tilt backward as far as they can go. No pictures here but it’s simple. You’ll need to remove the micro-filter and remove the micro-filter housing (held on by Torx screws). I may have also removed the fan housing to maximize the rearward tilt of the motor against the firewall. Take a look when you doing this. You will need every inch of room you can get. Now unbolt the transmission support brace and let the tranny down a little bit. Check your clearance against the back of the motor and the firewall.
^ With the tranny and motor tilting downward, maintain some support on the tranny.
^ Disconnect the wiring harness(es) and move it/them out of the way; GM – 1 harness,. ZF – two harnesses.
^ Then I disconnected the linkage, mechanical connection here – not difficult. Note - I differed from Neil’s write-up a little here because he removed the Steptronic gear shift selector first. It works either way; I just didn’t want to climb back into the car.
^ The next step is to locate the rubber plug on the automatic transmission plate, located on the right side next to the motor.
^ Remove the plug.
^ There is a slit at the bottom of the transmission that will allow you to use a screw driver and lever the flywheel teeth little by little until you locate each of the three torque converter bolts and remove them. I believe these were 19mm.
With the torque converter bolts out of the way, the electrical all disconnected and the shifter linkage removed, there is only one thing left before you can begin to remove the transmission. You have to disconnect the ATF cooling lines from the transmission. I don’t have pictures of this but if you made it this far I’m sure you’re capable of figuring this piece out. Note: make sure you have your oil drain pan available because this will leak way more ATF than you think it should.
IMPORTANT: Now it's time to remove the Torx bolts. These are E-10 through E-16. Get the right tools. Do not attempt to remove these with normal sockets, do not even think about it. Pay attention to the size and make sure it's right. You strip one of these and you'll be hating life. Autozone, Shucks, NAPA, all carry these.
http://photos.e46fanatics.com/data/5.../DSCN04812.jpg[click image to enlarge]
^ See the bolts way back up on top?
The bolts at the bottom and sides are easy enough to get to so no big deal here. To get to the top ones you're going to need a set of really long extensions and a universal joint. The extensions I used were a 20" an 8" and a 10". When you start taking the top bolts out I would highly recommend that you tape the socket on. I lost an E-16 up behind the starter and had to go get another one. This also required that I move the starter around until I could find the socket once the tranny was off.
There are 9 of these bolts, 3 on the bottom that are the same size; E-10. Then there are the two big ones on each side E-16. There are two E-14 on the starter motor, one on each side and there are two up top that aren't easy to get to that are E-16.
I quit taking pictures at this point because just like Neil, I ran into some problems getting the transmission apart from the motor. I also found a pneumatic hammer to be invaluable. BUT there is something you should be aware of that I didn't know about. There is a hollow alignment dowel located where the big bolts were at each side of the motor. I hit one of these with my air hammer and, well I need a new hollow dowel on one side
^ Pulling the transmission was a little more stubborn than I thought so I used a ratcheting strap to keep the pressure on while I removed it. That actually worked quite well.
^ Here is what the back of the engine looks like with the auto tranny out of the way.
POST-CAT O2 SENSORS
^ So with the tranny and the exhaust out of the way, what better time to replace the post-cat O2 sensors…
^ You couldn’t get better access, seriously!
^ I digress, the next thing you’ll need to do is get the automatic flywheel off the motor so you can get on with the install. I put one of the bottom transmission bolts back in so that I could use it as a stop point, using a screw driver to stop the flywheel from spinning while you take the bolts out.
^ You have to get the 8 x grade 10.9 bolts out so that you can remove the flywheel. Lock the flywheel in place as shown so that you don't need to buy the special BMW tool that is used for this purpose. I used a breaker bar and a 1/2" drive socket to pull these out as they are tight and difficult to break loose!
REAR MAIN SEAL
^ This is what it looks like when you get the flywheel off – YES!
But… since you have the flywheel off this would be a really good time to do some maintenance on the rear main seal. You know, even if it’s not leaking now (mine wasn’t) and you put it back together without doing this it will leak when you’re done, that’s just how Murphy rolls.
The rear main seal is super easy to do. The kit that BMW provides has everything you need; the seal, which is already installed in the frame it goes into, the bolts, the gasket, and a plastic guide cone so that you can easily and without damage install the seal. The ETK refers to the kit as "set of covers" and the part number is 11141438274. The part I referenced covers all E46's from M52's to M54's (Z3's and 5er's too).
^ Remove the 8 bolts that hold the seal frame on, six on the front (rear of the motor) and two from the bottom. I removed the six upper bolts first, then I backed off the bottom bolts just a few turns. I tapped them just a bit with a hammer and the cap popped off from the block. Don't use any force here - all you're doing is breaking the cap from the gasket a bit, you don't want to bend the hollow dowels that align everything. Note the two oil pan bolts that come in to the bottom of the RMS frame.
Picture is with the cap removed and surface clean.
^ New cap (with seal) ready to go in with white plastic guide cone also shown and included in kit.
^ New RMS installed. Note - I used a thin film of Permatex copper high temp silicone gasket sealant on the bottom of the cap to ensure that no oil leaks from the oil pan gasket as you're not replacing that piece at the same time.
Installation is too easy - the kit comes with the gasket. You line it up with the bolt holes on the block and it just fits over the hollow dowels. Smear a thin film of Permatex copper high-temp gasket sealant (or other appropriate sealant) on the bottom of the cap. Lightly lube the seal with oil. The kit also comes with a plastic guide cone that you place inside the seal - I put a film of oil on this too. Place the assembly up to the outbut shaft of the motor, push evenly and not very hard. It will slip right onto the output shaft and all you have left is to bolt it up.
The bolts in the kit come with thread locking compound on them already. I think you have to reuse the long ones on the bottom so I used a little bit of blue thread-lock gel on them. I bolted the bottom up just barely snug first. Then I put the four 10mm upper bolts in first and also just snugged them up. I put the remaining two 13mm bolts in and also just snugged them up - I don't know just a few inch pounds of torque. There are no clear instructions for this anywhere that I found so I went with logic. I tightened the bottom bolts to 6 ft/lbs to bring the cap down to the same level as the rest of the engine on the oil pan (fractions of a mm). I figured the 13mm bolts would pull the cap to the crush gasket with ease even with the bottom bolts installed because I can put 16-18 ft/lbs on them and the cap should sit where it is supposed to. After that I just tightened all the bolts to spec and you're done with the rear main seal. BTW – This worked well. 3,000 miles down the road and no leaks.
FLYWHEEL AND CLUTCH
^ The JB Racing lightweight flywheel gets installed. You’ll notice that these bolts are different than the ones I removed. These are a longer grade 10.9 bolt that came with the flywheel. Since this is a 6-speed installation you will also notice that the pilot bearing is press fit into the flywheel. This flywheel was barely used so you’ll notice the surface isn’t brand new. I also put the bolt back into the motor so that could use a screwdriver to stop the flywheel from spinning while I torqued flywheel bolts down. A keen eye would also notice that I forgot to put the thin metal “covering plate” (BMW’s term, not mine) back on. You can still get it on without having to take the flywheel back off. It just would have been easier to put it in place first.
^ Next the clutch disk has to go on but before that can be done the clutch MUST be aligned on the flywheel. If you don’t align the clutch disk properly you will be pulling it all back apart because the transmission input shaft has to fit into the splines on the clutch disk while at the same time the transmission case aligns with the alignment dowels on the motor. I couldn’t find a plastic clutch alignment tool and one didn’t come with my clutch so I picked up a metric version of a universal clutch alignment tool. The cost was under $15, which isn’t a big deal in the overall scheme of things and the extra length (over a plastic one) made it really easy to align the clutch disk.
The clutch is a UUC Performance Organic clutch with a sprung-hub. The sprung hub is important when you are installing a lightweight flywheel as it will help reduce the amount of rattling that occurs when you have the car in neutral, a phenomenon that occurs with lightweight flywheels. Notice the orientation of the spring assembly, this is correct from a conversation I had with UUC. The other side of the clutch disk spring assembly is much taller from the clutch disk than the side you see. This places the splined receiver from the clutch disk closer to the transmission.
^ Next the pressure plate goes on. Tighten up the bolts finger tight at first so that you can make sure the clutch disk is aligned using the alignment tool before you bolt the pressure plate firmly in place. It may not look like it’s aligned in the picture because of the slight angle but I assure you it was dead-on.
^ Here is the input side of the transmission getting ready for the install. Make sure to install the throw-out bearing before you put the transmission in place. It is necessary to use a sparing amount of grease where the yolk comes into contact with the throw-out bearing and also on the nylon pivot point and the contact point on the end of the slave cylinder.
^ At this point it was time to remove the automatic transmission fluid lines that run from the transmission to the radiator. I struggled to get this part off initially. They do make a specialty tool for these connectors but I found that a small pair of vice grips is very effective for this. Once the plastic ring is pressed into the fitting the hose pops off easily. Note – you don’t have press the plastic ring in very hard.
^ Once I freed the cooling hoses from the radiator I had to cut them out to remove them. You just can’t get all the ATF out of these lines so they will drip oil, guaranteed. I found a Dremel moto-tool with a cut-off wheel to be invaluable for removing the lines.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION PEDAL ASSEMBLY
^ I'm not going to go into much detail here except to say that you don't need to purchase a different pedal assembly bracket because the manual and automatic both share the same pedal assembly bracket. You will need to install the manual brake pedal and the clutch pedal. Install the clutch master cylinder and route the hydraulic feeds. In retrospect I would bet that you could feed the steel tube clutch line without removing the door sill or removing any of the carpet. Just locate the hole that the clutch line slips into from under the car and feed the steel pipe toward the left side of the car and slightly up. It should pop up right where the V is, with a lot less hassle than I went through.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION INSTALL!
^ You will have to gather all the extensions you used to take the Torx socket-head bolts off and a torque wrench so that you can install new bolts and tighten them properly. I put the transmission on the floor-jack and pushed it up into place. It balanced easily because the floor jack I have is huge (3 ½ ton Costco special). I pushed it up into place and it basically slid in without too much trouble. I think this is where a proper clutch alignment really paid off. The transmission went in really smooth. So much so that I forgot to take pictures because I was moving through this part so quickly. Everything was going very smooth until...
^ This picture is looking up at the starter on the left side of the motor. I had a hêll of a time getting the starter lined up. It was refusing to line up correctly to get the bolts in. You should be aware that the starter just kinda hangs there. The starter has two bolts and a pin or dowel at the top. I had to unbolt a couple of parts and move them out of the way so that I could get clear access to the starter and it made all the difference in the world. You could reach up there and move the starter into position. Finally - all the bolts go in and the transmission is in place.
^ Time for a Corona!
^ Looking up you'll see that the old automatic linkage pass-through has now been plugged. I couldn't find the grommet for this in the parts listing on realOEM.com and there may not be one. The hole is 36mm across. What I came up with worked very well though. I used a radial tire patch applied from both sides, one pushed against another one. You peel the protective backer from one side of the patch and it isn't sticky but if you apply another patch against it there is an instant bond that you can't get apart without tearing them. When installing them it really helps to have a buddy push from one side while you apply another patch from the other side. No water is getting in here!
^ One end of the shifter support is on the transmission, the other end fits into a clip built into the body sheet metal. Don’t forget to push the bushed aluminum cylinder (at the very top of the picture) into the slot it fits into or your shifter won’t work quite right. I should point out a flaw too. The sifter linkage is on backwards. It’s obvious once you try and put the driveshaft back in because the quibo/flex-coupler won’t fit. Just an FYI so you can avoid this minor issue.
^ A little lifting assistance from my smaller floor jack so that I can get the transmission up into the area it’s supposed to rest in and then get the support cross member bolted in place.
^ Now to focus effort on the shifter and center console. This is a BMW Performance shift that I installed.
^ Install the foam surround ring and make sure all the wires you pulled from the auto are out of the way.
^ Now for the center console trim.
^ And to top it off, the leather shift boot and the 6-speed ZHP shift knob. That’s it for this part of the build.
MANUAL DRIVE LINE INSTALLATION
^ Next install the guibo onto the transmission and torque the bolts to spec, then install the drive line and again torque the bolts to spec.
For some reason I don't have pictures of the CV joint being installed on the differential, probably because I was a little involved making sure I got this part right. The fit is ultra-tight. When installing these bolts make certain that you use brand new bolts. When you install these bolts, finger tight until you can't go any further. Using an alternating pattern, moving from one side to the other, work your way around all the bolts and tighten them up ½ turn at a time until they seat fully. This is important because the CV joint on the driveline fits into the input flange of the differential with zero clearance so you are using the bolts to press the CV joint into the flange and you don't want to wedge the CV joint into the flange lopsided. Now pull the torque wrench out and complete the operation. They are torqued to 92 ft/lbs according to Bentleys. I thought for sure they were going to snap off because they kept turning almost to the click point of the torque wrench, and would turn a little more. Eventually it stopped doing this and all the bolts were torqued to spec. The bolts are definitely on there tight!
^ Now apply the mastic that dampens and holds the center-bearing in place. It's called Butyl cord Terostat 2460 according to realOEM.com. Push the drive line up into place and put the nuts on, torque to spec.
^ You'll have to do something with the electrical connector(s) that hang down. I put a vinyl packing wrap over it and then covered that up with a stretchy rubber electrical tape that is used for splicing. This forms a very necessary water-proof barrier. Then wire-tie them up and out of the way.
^ At this point I drained all of the MTF out of the transmission. I replaced it with the concoction that UUC recommended for lightweight flywheel installation again the syringe helped out here.
^ One last thing in this area. Don't forget to put the rubber access plug back in place that you removed to gain access to the automatic transmission torque converter bolts.
^ Before reinstalling the exhaust I chased the threads of the exhaust bolts that are integral to the header pipe (10mm x 1.50 thread pitch). Run the dye all the way up and down, and oil it liberally. The oil will carry rust and grit back out of the threads. This will make it easier in the future if you have to remove them again. Again I didn't take pictures of installing the heat shield or the exhaust itself because it's pretty non-eventful.
I’m going to go into some detail here because this is where you might need a little encouragement. The instructions I’m giving you will allow you to get your car moving down the road. There aren’t any shortcuts here especially since this was a ZF automatic transmission. You don’t have the option of shorting a couple of pins out and getting the car started so you can do it right later (only GM tranny swaps can do this), but If you do this with purpose you’ll be done before you know it.
You need to familiarize yourself with the parts you will be working with. The manual transmission pedal assembly is already in place. There will be some wiring work done in this area as you wire in the clutch shift module, which has a hall-effect sensor that mounts alongside the master cylinder. This is what will signal the DME (ECU) that the clutch pedal is depressed so that it is safe to start the engine and one other lead will be going to a little box just in front of the LCM (lighting control module), this box is the engine immobilizer unit. It takes a signal emitted from the key and decodes it to determine if this is a valid start request from a proper key for your car. You will have to remove the cover from the electronics module/relay box under the hood, just to the left of the brake fluid reservoir. This will give you access to the ECU wiring and the relay that controls the backup lights. So, let’s get started. All of the electrical work that will be done within these modules will involve female pins inserted into a multi-pin module.
You will want to bookmark this link below, as it’s invaluable when looking into wiring diagrams. All of the hyper-links with the wiring diagrams work. You need to install an SVG viewer to see all the graphics as the wiring diagrams are encoded with this viewer. You can either download an antiquated SVG viewer form Adobe or use Google Chrome/Firefox as they both have support for SVG built in. You will also need the latest Java plug-in.
^ I made this wiring diagram up using different diagrams within the WDS. This diagram does not explicitly exist in WDS but is the culmination of several wiring diagrams to make a clear concise picture of what needs to be done.
^ These are computer wiring crimp connector ends. These work well inside the connectors that BMW uses. The ones BMW actually uses may be a bit different but this worked fine and should be readily available at better electronics, radio and TV supply stores, and maybe computer warehouse stores.
^ The electronics module/relay box with the cover off.
^ Here is what the pins on the DME (ECU) (black strip) and TCU (blue strip) look like with the wiring modules removed. The highlighted area is where module X6004 goes and you will be working with pin-23. Don’t worry about removing the wiring modules, BMW mechanics do it when they have to mess with this part of your car. They go back in just fine.
^ Module x6004 is highlighted and all connectors are back in place.
^ This is what it will look like when you remove module x6004 from the ECU
^ See my thumbnail – pull the clip aside and extract the black module from wiring module x6004. This will liberate one half of the module so that you can work on it. There are 20 pins on each of the two modules within x6004. We will be working with the black module, which is the second module of the two.
^ With the 20 pin module removed from the shell of X6004.
^ You can see the demarcation for pin 21 on the left side of the drawing. Count over two more pins and we’ll be installing our wire into that space. There should be nothing there now.
^ Looking at pin-23 from the top of the connector. Notice no wire is present in location #23.
Now you have to get a wire from down by the clutch pedal area into the ECU module/relay box. It’s not hard at all though.
^ This would be looking to the left of the pedal assembly . You’ll see a white (cream colored) plastic insert with a fan mounted on it and a little half-moon shaped bubble with a hole at the bottom. It turns out that this is a venting channel to the ECU/relay box. There may be more appropriate ways of getting your wire up into the ECU/relay box but this is the route I chose.
^ Run the wire up through the hole from the bottom and it will pop out in this area (note – blue wire). Don’t cut the wire yet because you don’t know how much you really need. Knowing what I know now, I would have ordered this wire ahead of time. Locally I couldn’t source the correct diameter wire because I live in BFE. I used 16 gauge wire, but this should have been 18 or 20 gauge.
^ Install the computer wiring crimp connector end onto the wire and slide it into the module. It will snap into place and you won’t be able to remove it if it is installed correctly. Note that there is a little tab on the connector that will fit into the rectangular grove that faces you when looking at the connector shell and keeps the connector locked in place. Now reinstall the black module into the ECU module, x6004 shell.
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