AA Stage II 330Ci Build
I would like to start off by thanking Viral from Active Autowerkes for his amazing customer support and for helping me score a sponsorship from the guys at AA. I received my stage II supercharger kit last week and was pleasantly surprised by the quality and attention to detail. Every single part was individually wrapped in bubble wrap and packed in a sea of packing peanuts, it literally took me an hour to unpackage the kit. Everything you could possibly need is included in the kit write down to a fresh set of sparkplugs. All the tubing for the intercooler and blower are powdercoated in a very nice black wrinkle finish and custom bent to fit the car perfectly. In the kit is a CD which gives you step by step instructions with pictures of each step, I made sure to take pictures of any parts that were a bit unclear. The kit was installed on my 02' 330ci 5spd with 48,000miles, I chose to install the kit myself as I am a BMW master tech at a local dealer.
I know have approx 200miles on since the install and the results have well exceeded my expectations! The power difference is night and day and feels so smooth all the way to redline. I wasn't sure what to expect for sound but all i can say is WOW! The car sounds like a fighter jet with a nice sucking sound at idle from the filter and the bypass valve is loud enough to wake your neighbors when opening under boost. I was extremely pleased to see the AFR to be dead on, AA really has their tuning down to an exact science!! The car runs like factory until you mash the pedal and prepare for takeoff, then the true beast comes out.
Please stay tuned for the full write-up, Im having trouble uploading all the pictures at the moment. Feel free to ask any questions about the kit or install!
Looks awesome. You're dealer won't let you work on it in the shop?
in for comparo to a e9x m3. maybe a vid ? :) awsome op and for a master tech was it a preety simple install? is it the first fi application you have dealt with?
and props for your low mile 330 :D
I see by the photo of all the parts that AA is now covering the inlet & exhaust on the intercooler. Last summer, we installed my AA/2 and immediately had problems building boost. We looked everywhere and found nothing until we bypassed the intercooler and we now had boost so we looked around the corner of the intercooler inlet with a fiber optic scope and immediately saw a hidden mouse nest packing in half the tubes!! One in a million . . . . It took a high pressure water hose to flush it all out!!
I am also glad that AA is now providing colder plugs.
Are you planning on dynoing it with a wideband?
Viral is a great guy, glad to see he was able to take care of you!
If you ever need anything feel free to ask any questions that come to mind!
But mainly ENJOY!
I did the install at home since it was a holiday weekend and I couldn't wait to install it! :woot: I do plan on doing some dyno pulls as soon as I get the time to do so, Im very curious to see how my HP numbers compare to those advertised. The install was fairly straight forward and took me about 10hrs on a garage floor. Active does a great job with their instructions and everything went together fairly easy. The only difficulty I had was running the piping from the blower to the intercooler inlet due to the limited space and complex curves. I should have the complete write-up done tomorrow, it was done today but my wonderful Macbook Pro likes to play games and erased the entire write-up on me :censor: !
What's the small ic for??
If you are referring to what I think you are, that's the oil cooler for the Rotrex S/C as it has its own contained traction fluid
As promised here is the long awaited build:
Before shot minus intake
Start by removing front bumper, driver side headlight, and airbox.
Next remove electric cooling fan to access belt and tensioner. Remove both belts and factory tensioner. Also remove 2 alternator mounting bolts, the top mounting bolt goes through the original idler pulley.
Install new spring loaded belt tensioner using the two shorter bolts that were taken out of the old hydraulic tensioner.
Next the crankcase ventilation system must be modified so it is not subject to boost from the intake manifold. This is done by removing the airshroud from the top of manifold via 5 T25screws and cutting/capping hose that runs from intake manifold to oil separator.
Now remove the lower half of the oil separator line that was cut by feeding through opening in intake manifold and turning counter clockwise. Accessing this line is easier with the tank vent valve and bracket removed from the front of intake manifold. Once hose is removed carefully slice hose and remove the fitting from the end. The removed fitting is the attached to the supplied rubber hose.
Hose can now be reconnected to oil separator and routed so runs towards where the MAF sensor used to be. This hose will later be connected to the snail pipe which is on the non boost side of intake, allowing vapors to still be vented intake intake.
Heres a shot of the tank vent valve and bracket which must be removed to access oil separator hose. Also with this valve removed the supercharger tensioning strut should be installed. The strut is bolted to the oil filter housing near the oil pressure sensor. This adjustable threaded rod will allow for minor alignment adjustments of supercharger to prevent belt noise and allow belt to sit square on pulley.
I found this a good time to install the new larger 36Lb fuel injectors as there is much more room with the intake air shroud removed. Fuel rail is held in by a few 10mm bolts, fuel line connection is directly behind the intake. Line is disconnected by pushing rubber line towards fuel rail then pushing quick release tabs and pulling line off. Fuel rail can now be removed by gently prying upwards with a screw driver.
Fuel injectors are removed from rail by sliding metal retaining clip off and gently lifting injector from rail. Picture shows new injector installed on left and old on right with retaining clip still installed.
Notice the dual spray pattern and larger diameter of the new injector on the left.
Fuel injectors can now be installed in rail and rail can be put back on engine. Use small amounts of motor oil to lube o-rings on injectors to install in rail and engine. Intake air shroud can now be reinstalled also.
Next step is to replace the sparkplugs with the colder plugs supplied by AA (NGK V-Power Race Plugs)
Power steering line that runs from reservoir to cooler on radiator must be lengthened to allow it to be ran behind the supercharger bracket without being stretched. The line is lengthened by cutting in half and installing 3 inch metal coupler with 2 hose clamps. This job is much cleaner if you use a turkey baster to suck ATF out of the reservoir before cutting the line.
Now time to mount the supercharger onto its bracket via 4 allen bolts and torqueing to specified torque in instructions. Upper idler can also be installed on bracket now. Supercharger and bracket are now installed on engine using 2 supplied bolts that go in place of the alternator mounting bolts. It is very important that the supercharger, new all metal idler pulleys, and bracket are torqued to the specified torque in manual. Alternator pulley fits through hole in middle of bracket, be sure to route the newly modified power steering line behind the SC bracket on top of alternator.
With the blower installed the new lower idler pulley can be bolted to the SC bracket and the drive belt can now be installed. The belt is a NAPA belt which makes obtaining a replacement one very easy and cheap. AA supplies a good pic of the new belt routing, I chose not to post any pics from their manual as im not sure what their policy on that is.
Next remove the DISA valve via 2 T30 screws, followed by the intake elbow which is held on with 2 hose clamps to the throttle body and idle air valve. With these parts removed you will see the hard plastic line that connects to the tank vent valve. Separate the rubber line from the plastic line and install the supplied check valve with the arrow pointing toward the engine/valve. The instructions state this valve to be grey in color but mine was brass (gold).
Now the 45 degree silicone elbow can be installed on the throttle body, elbow must be angle down towards the ground. Now comes the tricky part, installing the pipes from the outlet of the SC to the intercooler inlet. The SC outlet faces outwards towards the drivers side fender, three 90 degree elbows are used to create a downward spiral between the alternator housing and the body of the car. I found it necessary to cut the air duct off the alternator in order to fit the pipe.
The BOV can now be bolted to the throttle body pipe and the pipe can now be installed and clamped to throttle body.
With the BOV pipe installed the idle air supply hose can now be installed. This hose runs from the BOV pipe to the idle valve above the throttle body. With the hose in reinstall the DISA valve.
On the back of the manifold remove the factory vacuum cap off the nipple and install the supplied vacuum line with T-fitting. This line will connect to the BOV top nipple (bottom one is left unused) and to the fuel regulator line which used to be connected to the original intake elbow (smaller line).
Now install the snail pipe, this pipe attached to the SC intake port and curves around so it faces the opening under the drivers headlight. Make sure to clamp the blower tensioning rod to the blower inlet when mounting snail pipe. This rod is the turned until it contacts blower and then turned a ¼ turn further. This pipe takes a bit of convincing to make fit as it has to connect the BOV outlet to the SC inlet. Its easiest to slide into the BOV first and the onto the SC inlet.
Next cut the connector for the MAF sensor off of harness and lengthen using supplied harness. This will allow the MAF to be relocated under driver side headlight. Now the intake tube , MAF, and air filter can be installed.
The brackets for the intercooler can now be installed. They are installed using the inner mounting bolt for the bumper support bracket and mirror image each other. Intercooler should sit all the way back with approx. 1/2” gap between itself and the radiator support, this is why the 2 studs were cut off earlier in the build.
The intercooler can then be loosely mounted to allow for fitting of the pipes. There is a bracket that must be bolted to the driver side of oil pan to support the intercooler outlet pipe, there is already an unused pre-threaded hole in the oil pan. Using supplied bolt mount bracket, I chose to leave loose until the piping was all in to allow adjustment. The intercooler outlet pipe can now be installed and runs directly in front of sway bar.
The pipe with the s-bend goes from intercooler inlet to the spiral on the SC outlet. I found it necessary to bend the power steering hardline coming out of pipe slightly to allow pipe to line up.
The SC oil cooler is now installed using supplied bracket and hardware, there are already 2 unused holes in the radiator support that will be used to bolt the cooler bracket.
The SC oil reservoir is now mounted in the passenger side rear corner of the engine bay in the location many refer to as the “drug bin”. There is a tab the protrudes from the fire wall that is already predrilled and tapped from the factory. Using supplied bracket and bolt, mount the reservoir.
The hose the runs from the cooler outlet (pass side) to the reservoir inlet (top) can be routed through the opening between the headlight and radiator support and then along the pass side fender to the reservoir. There is a rubber grommet for the factory wiring harness which I chose to notch a section out of to allow the hose to pass under the seal. The hose should also leave the cooler and loop around to prevent kinking.
The hose that runs from the reservoir outlet (bottom) to the supercharger intlet can now be ran. This hose will run along the firewall behind the engine and contains a magnetic filter. There is a rubber plug in the inner wall of the “drug bin” which can be notched out to allow the hose to run through under the seal. After routing and connecting the line to SC leave the banjo bolt finger tight to allow priming of the system before startup.
The hose can now be run from the SC outlet to the cooler, this hose will run through the opening between the driver headlight and radiator support. The system can now be primed by pressurizing the reservoir opening with compressed air (10psi) until fluid comes out of supercharger intlet bolt. The line can then be tightened.
The DME must be removed and sent to AA for tuning. I chose to do this before I received my kit. MAKE SURE KEY IS OFF FOR AT LEAST 3 MINUTES PRIOR TO REMOVAL!
Double check your work and cycle key a few times to allow fuel pressure to build. Start up and inspect for any leaks, noises, etc. Mine fired up instantly without so much as a sputter or long crank, the idle was smooth and thankfully I had no problems. The bumper and engine covers can now be reinstalled, I have an M-replica bumper and had no fitment issues at all! No modifications were needed to the bumper, however if you plan on running splashshields you will need to trim a bit off the driver side of the large engine shield to clear the piping. Also your brake ducts will no longer fit with the intercooler, I chose to cut the brake ducts off of the splash shield brackets that connect the sides of the center shield to the two corner shields to allow a more secure fit of the shields.
AA recommends performing a 65 mile run-in period which limits you to 3,000 rpm’s while the blower is breaking in. If I skipped a step or something was unclear please let me know so I can edit or clarify it.
Stay tuned for videos/ feedback after I get some miles on the kit.
wish you had some more detailed pics of how you routed the PS hose, that part is a little confusing to me.
How I routed which P/S hose? The one that was modified to fit behind the blower bracket? If so, it is really self explanatory when you go to mount the blower. It stay connected how it is and just gets tucked behind the blower bracket (sit right on top of the alternator). If you need more clarification or thats not what you were talking about let me know and Ill try and take pictures.
It was cut and lengthened because it was too short to go behind the bracket. By adding 2-3" with the supplied extension it can fit behind the bracket without stretching it. If i get a chance tomorrow I'll take a pic of it.
sweet, thanks bud!
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