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-   -   DIY: CCV Delete and Moroso Oil Breather Tank Install (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=860800)

Dan330Ci~ 08-01-2011 02:27 PM

DIY: CCV Delete and Moroso Oil Breather Tank Install
 
This is a DIY for the removal fo the CCV system in entirety and the installation of a Moroso oil breather tank in it's place. I wanted to remove the stock CCV system as it's another thing on the car that I look at and think 'junk'. It was also worn out and letting far too much vac be on the crankcase. I also wanted to no longer recirculate oil vapours into the engine.

I used the two studs on the suspension tower that is on the exhaust side of the engine to mount the breather tank. I think these are the same studs that are used for the secondary air thingy but I'm not sure, my euro car doesn't have this.

Finished article:

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13407.jpg

Parts required:

Moroso 85465 breather tank (has a 12AN fitting)
Rubber caps (7x) (see link here)
Hose clamp 46mm thin type (1x) (see link here for the ones I used)
Hose clamps 22mm (7x) (see link above for the ones I used)
M6 nuts (2x)
M6 washers (2x)
3/4" ID oil resistant hose (~0.5 m) (I used Aeroquip AQP)
12AN straight hose fitting
3/4" elbow

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13398.jpg

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13399.jpg

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13352.jpg

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13355.jpg

Step 1:

Step 1 is removal of the stock CCV system. I haven't documented this process but it is relatively straightforward. We will be roughly copying this diagram (shamelessly stolen) but only keeping the connector which is on the valve cover. The dipstick return will be capped off.

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k.../cvvdelete.jpg

Here are some pictures of the 2 CCV torx bolt locations just to help:

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13081.jpg

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13082.jpg

You can see where i cut the stock CCV with a hacksaw for easy removal:

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13086.jpg

Step 2:

Step 2 is capping off the dipstick return and the 6 inlet runner bungs.

This is the cap and hose clamp on the dipstick, which I removed from the sump (big mistake). I left a small piece of the original hose on the dipstick to make the diameter larger to suit the cap. If you remove the dipstick from the sump (by pulling upwards after removing the bolt from the bracket) it will be difficult to re-fit it with everything else in place. I would seriously recommend capping it off in-situ.

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13092.jpg

These are the caps and hose clamps on the inlet runner bungs. You could cut the caps down some so they sit lower but I couldn't be bothered.

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13135.jpg

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13134.jpg

Step 3:

Step 3 is the installation of the oil breather tank. The first job is to mount the bracket on the studs using the 2 washers and nuts. Be careful not to cross-thread the nuts as the threads on the studs aren't amazing. You may need to bend the bracket slightly to go over the 2 studs.

You could alternatively mount using the lower stud you can see and a plastic expanding-type clip where you can see a plastic fixing. This would work and you would have clearance to the frame rail underneath however you would have no chance of draining the tank in-situ. Also you would need a 45 or 90 degree 12AN fitting perhaps.

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13402.jpg

Install the tank within the bracket:

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13403.jpg

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13404.jpg

Now assemble the hose and attach to the tank and valve cover. Use dish washing liquid to lubricate the push-fit fittings! You can alternatively run it the other side of the oil filler and attach to the underside of the strut brace if you have one. The way you see below allows you to fit both original covers though.

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13408.jpg

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13406.jpg

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13407.jpg

You can see how the filter has a deep base, this gives around 5 mm of clearance between the top and the hood. I cut it down to half the size to increase the clearance to 10 mm. This is why you need a thin type hose clamp, not the one supplied with the tank

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...n/SDC13405.jpg

Job done :craig:

Custom3 08-01-2011 02:41 PM

what are the benefits from doing this? Cools the oil better?

darksideracer69 08-01-2011 03:43 PM

Thanks man, i like this setup.

TX78666 08-01-2011 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Custom3 (Post 13434846)
what are the benefits from doing this? Cools the oil better?

I could be wrong, but I assume that the main benefit is eliminating that point of failure (CCV) and the hassles that go with it.

Bandit 08-01-2011 06:02 PM

I really like this idea, have you had any trouble? CEL or otherwise?

RockerGuy 08-01-2011 11:25 PM

Damn, thats awesome

Dan330Ci~ 08-02-2011 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TX78666 (Post 13435421)
I could be wrong, but I assume that the main benefit is eliminating that point of failure (CCV) and the hassles that go with it.

That's one of the main points, it's just another thing on the car that is junk by 60k miles and is a pain to change. Also the idea that if the diaphragm fails it can suck up the oil from the sump is a real joke.

The other points are that I don't want to burn the oil vapours and don't want to be returning crappy oil/water mixture or fuel from blow-by back to the sump, diluting the oil. It may 'use' slightly more oil with no return line but I'm not worried about this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bandit (Post 13435680)
I really like this idea, have you had any trouble? CEL or otherwise?

No CEL, it's purely a mechanical system.

Custom3 08-02-2011 09:35 AM

oh okay....i change all my hoses and CCV last year...it was a pain in the ass to do...This would have been a million times easier to do.

new//M3fan 08-07-2011 07:42 PM

Very well done!

However, A vacuum in the crankcase is beneficial in our case since our engines employ the use of low-tension piston rings.

That small amount of vacuum helps the piston rings seal better. among other things.

A catch can setup that creates vacuum in the crankcase would be the ideal setup.

The vacuum inside the crankcase is only about .5 inHg. I have a reason to believe that increasing the vacuum between 6-8 inHg will net some HP gains.

mujjuman 08-08-2011 06:49 AM

nice work

Dan330Ci~ 08-08-2011 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newe46fan (Post 13456683)
Very well done!

However, A vacuum in the crankcase is beneficial in our case since our engines employ the use of low-tension piston rings.

That small amount of vacuum helps the piston rings seal better. among other things.

A catch can setup that creates vacuum in the crankcase would be the ideal setup.

The vacuum inside the crankcase is only about .5 inHg. I have a reason to believe that increasing the vacuum between 6-8 inHg will net some HP gains.

Thanks, are you talking about the oil control rings specifically or also the compression rings?

DangerousMind 08-08-2011 12:02 PM

Just wait a few months and you will have oil residue all over your engine bay and an oil caked catch can filter. Also, how does your air conditioning smell?

new//M3fan 08-08-2011 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan330Ci~ (Post 13458439)
Thanks, are you talking about the oil control rings specifically or also the compression rings?

The entire ring package is low tension.

Put some negative pressure in the crankcase and drive it around, you will notice a difference.

new//M3fan 08-08-2011 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DangerousMind (Post 13458842)
Just wait a few months and you will have oil residue all over your engine bay and an oil caked catch can filter. Also, how does your air conditioning smell?

That's not a catch can. That a breather tank.

DangerousMind 08-08-2011 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newe46fan (Post 13458867)
That's not a catch can. That a breather tank.

It's a goddamn atmospheric/vented catch can chief. Splitting hairs.

DANe46 08-08-2011 12:48 PM

OP where did you get the gold heat shield that's covering your intake box?

new//M3fan 08-08-2011 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DangerousMind (Post 13458951)
It's a goddamn atmospheric/vented catch can chief. Splitting hairs.

Whatever tinkers your wenie, pal.

Dan330Ci~ 08-08-2011 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DANe46 (Post 13459063)
OP where did you get the gold heat shield that's covering your intake box?

See my thread here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...573&highlight=

Dan330Ci~ 08-08-2011 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DangerousMind (Post 13458842)
Just wait a few months and you will have oil residue all over your engine bay and an oil caked catch can filter. Also, how does your air conditioning smell?

I have driven it around for a few months with no catch can, just the original hose that goes from the valve cover to the CCV just hanging in the engine bay, I didn't get any residue.

Air conditioning smells fine :confused: the microfilter housing seals against the underside of the hood.

Of course YMMV.

RockerGuy 08-09-2011 02:40 PM

Hey, can you tell us how much oil u are losing per month?
I am thinking of doing this, just thinking about the amount of oil I will be losing


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