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-   -   Help with diagnosing fault codes. (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=866667)

RSteckhahn 08-28-2011 02:20 PM

Help with diagnosing fault codes.
 
I have a "service engine soon" light on in my car. I used my Peake code reader and came up with the following codes.

27C3 - Thermal Oil Level Sensor
2882 - mixture preparation bank 1
2883 - mixture preparation bank 2
2DC6 - fuel tank level, plausibility

All of this means nothing to me, which means I will be bringing the car to the shop unless someone on this forum can guide my in the right direction so that I may try a DIY fix.

Thanks in advance for any help!

RSteckhahn 08-28-2011 07:42 PM

anyone with any knowledge of this?

dmax 08-28-2011 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSteckhahn (Post 13529412)
I have a "service engine soon" light on in my car. I used my Peake code reader and came up with the following codes.

27C3 - Thermal Oil Level Sensor
2882 - mixture preparation bank 1
2883 - mixture preparation bank 2
2DC6 - fuel tank level, plausibility

All of this means nothing to me, which means I will be bringing the car to the shop unless someone on this forum can guide my in the right direction so that I may try a DIY fix.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Uh, oh...you again! Bet you're saying the same thing!

Could be only one thing that's causing the ses light, and the others were stored from another time.

The oil level sensor, if bad, will trigger the yellow oil light to come on 10 secs. after starting and then go off 15 secs. after that. It's not a big issue if it's failed.

A bad mix, fuel/air, could be either on the fuel side (fuel filter is first...could be really bad injectors (techron ftw), fuel pressure issue (fuel filter might fix that),or fuel pump (forget that for now).

On air side, it could be bad maf (low odds), really clogged air filter, leak in the intake/vac lines. Lower intake boot seems to crack all the time...but look.

...and it looks like your fuel level sender is stuck. Does your fuel gauge seem to get to around 1/4 tank and stay there? Careful, don't trust it. Calculate your distance to fill from your mpg and mph on that tank. If you fill at 250 miles, or so, you should be safe...though might be able to go much further, say on the highway. 16.6 gal tank...mpgs might be as good as mine...34.5 mpg...but probably not as I have a special car, I've been told! :lmao:

RSteckhahn 08-29-2011 05:45 AM

The fuel filter is fairly new - about 15k miles. The oil level sensor could definitely be an issue - the low oil level light comes on sporadically.

I have a feelings I may leave this one for professionals as I could spin in circles trying to figure out what is wrong...

Thanks for the input.

dmax 08-29-2011 06:00 AM

I wouldn't give up quite yet, but that's up to you.

Intake leaks are the common cause of fuel mixture codes...and the oil level light is unimportant, though you should, of course, make sure your level is correct when the car is cool and level.

Also, I'm only one guy...others here can help too, and will, if you don't seem so eager to get to a shop. They'll read that and just not bother helping in many cases...just saying.

RSteckhahn 08-29-2011 06:25 AM

k... I have an AFE air intake, that is clean. The tube leading back to the motor is now plastic and def. not cracked. I will clean the MAF.

I have no idea how to check my injectors.

I always use the odometer to calculate my gas mileage. 34.5 mpg is crazy... I average around 26 with my combined driving.

dmax 08-29-2011 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSteckhahn (Post 13531448)
k... I have an AFE air intake, that is clean. The tube leading back to the motor is now plastic and def. not cracked. I will clean the MAF.

I have no idea how to check my injectors.

I always use the odometer to calculate my gas mileage. 34.5 mpg is crazy... I average around 26 with my combined driving.

Just add techron to the gas tank at your next fill...easy. Maybe a second application in the tank after...$20 and actually might get you somewhere.

My mileage is at 71 mph on the highway...combined, I don't know...it varies...22 mpg is my lowest mpg when I'm averaging about 25 mph...if 30 mph, then maybe 25 mpg.

You have a hard plastic tube intake all the way to the throttle body? If so, if that's a new addition to your car, I'd suspect the seal there. It's hard enough for many to get a seal with our rubber ones. Or, if newish, and you still have the rubber boot on TB, then maybe when installing, that boot was damaged?

You could spray carb cleaner around and see if it affects idle where you spray it. If so, there's your leak.

You can have intake smoked by a shop too and then make the repair yourself.

But, if so doing, I'd recommend reading up on all the stuff you could do while getting to the TB.

Anyway, still think you should disconnect the battery if you disconnected maf...though, that also makes me think that if this code popped up after doing the new intake, that the car just doesn't understand why it's getting a different amount of air all of a sudden and hasn't adapted to it yet...again, a battery disconnect would help speed adaptation along.

RSteckhahn 08-29-2011 06:48 AM

no... the intake isn't new... I have to look how far back the hard plastic tube goes.

After I try a few different fixes, should I reset the codes and see if they come back again?

dmax 08-29-2011 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSteckhahn (Post 13531466)
no... the intake isn't new... I have to look how far back the hard plastic tube goes.

After I try a few different fixes, should I reset the codes and see if they come back again?

It will speed things up if you do, as some codes take a while of driving under different conditions to 'set.' But, don't be surprised if the ses returns in a few days, but I hope it doesn't!

RSteckhahn 08-30-2011 04:28 PM

sooo... dmax - they found the intake hose between the MAF and the throttle body to be a little lose, but also found the vacuum tap cap on the manifold (underneath the cabin filter) was cracked and breaking. I also had them give the car a once over since it has been a while since a professional has looked at the car and they found that my brake booster hose was partially collapsed. As for the suspension - they think that the struts could be on the wrong side of the car??? I am going to look more into that now.

Solidjake 08-30-2011 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSteckhahn (Post 13529412)
27C3 - Thermal Oil Level Sensor:

You have to replace your oil level sensor. Cheapest place I've seen it is at www.autohausaz.com brand should be HELLA


2882 - mixture preparation bank 1
2883 - mixture preparation bank 2
2DC6 - fuel tank level, plausibility:

For these three make sure you are filling up premium gas and run a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner.


In bold above

Solidjake 08-30-2011 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSteckhahn (Post 13536652)
sooo... dmax - they found the intake hose between the MAF and the throttle body to be a little lose, but also found the vacuum tap cap on the manifold (underneath the cabin filter) was cracked and breaking. I also had them give the car a once over since it has been a while since a professional has looked at the car and they found that my brake booster hose was partially collapsed. As for the suspension - they think that the struts could be on the wrong side of the car??? I am going to look more into that now.


The brake booster hose is easy to change, I did it. Get the part from online or the dealer and buy two hose clamps at an auto parts store. Pry off the hold hose clamps, take the hose out (I found it easier to cut the hose off where it goes to the manifold to give more access to the clamp) and then just slip the new hose clamps over the hose and install.

For the intake boots but them as well and replace them yourself. If you don't know how to do that then use my vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STy-J10DtiU

dmax 08-30-2011 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSteckhahn (Post 13536652)
sooo... dmax - they found the intake hose between the MAF and the throttle body to be a little lose, but also found the vacuum tap cap on the manifold (underneath the cabin filter) was cracked and breaking. I also had them give the car a once over since it has been a while since a professional has looked at the car and they found that my brake booster hose was partially collapsed. As for the suspension - they think that the struts could be on the wrong side of the car??? I am going to look more into that now.

Oh man! Mostly good news!

I just read a post yesterday about how one 'could' put struts on the wrong side...although they do have an "L" and an "R" on them! If you have any relationship with whomever did them the first time...might be worth a shot to ask them to make them right.

I'm not sure where the L and R are, but you might be able to see it. But, evidently, if the struts are on the wrong side, then the sway bar endlinks would be pushing or pulling the wrong way...thus your suspension issue might be a simple fix...and you don't have to hunt around much more for that.

I hope I guessed intake leak, but I'll scan up later to see how close I came!

Smooth sailing from here, I hope!

RSteckhahn 08-30-2011 07:05 PM

Solidjake - do you think I should still run a bottle of chevron techron even if the problem seems to be fixed? Thanks for the info. This was the first time my car has been in the shop for something I didn't attempt to fix since it passed its 50k warranty mark. The mechanic just fixed the brake booster hose as well as my vacuum leak.

dmax - you did guess intake leak as one possible diagnosis. I am going to update my suspension woes in the other thread!

Amazingly, the car now runs quieter. At idle, I can hardly tell the motor is on. The car also hesitates less when accelerating. Previously, the noise of the motor seemed normal to me and I have forever been used to German cars having inconsistent power bands. It is amazing how something as little as a rubber plug on the intake manifold (driver side under the cabin microfilter area) can cause a motor to run so poorly. What is odd is that my mpg's have been good - getting around 400 miles per tank.

vadim 07-10-2012 11:27 AM

Had been getting the same two codes (2882, 2883 - mixture preparation bank 1&2) for a week, accompanied by partial loss of power. Then yesterday the car just would not start. No CEL, though. Towed to dealer.

Diagnosis: dead fuel pump. So there.


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