N/A Build plus a lil nitrous
 

What started as 01 330xi, has become this. The pics of the other motor/turbo manifold is for my turbo build. This car is RWD now, and will stay that way. Ebay headers, Dinan long tube intake, ccv/sap/rear o2 delete. 3.46, TMS SSK/pullies, Hamann shift knob, 5spd, lwt flywheel, fx400 6 puck. Slotted rotors, metal master pads, Oz Alleggerita HTL Anthracite wheels. H&R Race springs, Billy shocks, PF FCAB, ZEX 75 wet kit... and many many more. I DD this car, I put nearly 20k+ a year on it. I just recently drove it 11 hours one way. Enjoy

Looking good. :thumbsup:


Is everything back together and running, if not how many more months ?

I'm currently reworking the nitrous system and upgrading some intake components stett boots, new cold fusion nozzle, fuel filter, rework the exhaust. Put in some new colder plugs today... I'm working at it. Few parts I need to order that I broke while working on the car. Car runs atm, just needs lots of winter love :) I'm shooting for march.

Good.

Will you be getting a dyno with AFR when it's all done, A) to know what power you're making, B) to know you have safe a AFR ?

I plan on getting an afr/egt when I get a new exhaust made. This motor has 170k on it, if she goes she goes. I'm not really concerned about how much power I'm making. However, I will dyno to add information on the topic.

When you install the EGT, please take good (better than these) pics. I myself have considered an EGT, so once you get it installed, please post up your thoughts on it. Also, will you get a single or dual probe EGT; what brand are you considering ?

Single probe, sensor connection. Why a single probe? I'm not using this to tune my car. It doesn't need to be that accurate. If I see temps getting too high, I'll take my finger off the hot button:) I will do my best with my blackberry dumb phone!

Looks good!

Thank You, and thank you for everything you have done for the bmw community. :bow: Helps knowing whats been done, what is working, what isn't working.. etc.

with a 75 shot do you really need a 6 puck fx400? Seems like way over kill in my mind

No, you are 100% correct. I'm building a turbo motor also, and I plan on using that clutch combo with the turbo/nitrous.

Rob, would you mind sharing what plugs you plan on running with your nitrous setup and how much you will be spraying? I'm using NGK BKR7EIX 2667. thanks

Sweet! That is the clutch I'm running on my custom turbo 323i e46, you will love it. Both smooth and not to pedal heavy!

awesome! How is the engagement? Easy to slip from a dig? How many miles do you have on it currently? Also what gears are you running?

I too will be running the NGK BKR7EIX 2667, but.......

Nitrous guys in the know tell me that in extreme conditions like detonation, the welded on Iridium tip can fail. If & when this failure happens the tip may separate from the plug, needless to say that would not be good for that cylinder/motor. With this said, keep in mind the vast majority of nitrous users report no problems running Iridium plugs. The best overall bet though may be a cheap Copper (not aluminum) core plug with a single ground strap. Then the standard length ground strap is cut down to make it shorter, so now it's off to the side of the electrode; instead of on top of it. Plug gap somewhere between .025 to .028, and of course one step colder than stock. Keep in mind that different manufactures use different ratings (higher or lower numbers) to determine hot or cold plugs. So with a NGK plug, the next higher number from stock is "colder". With an Autolite plug, the lower number from stock is colder.

This statement is from the owner of Wizards Of Nitrous (W.O.N.)
"RULES for plugs;

1) ALWAYS use NGK
2) ALWAYS buy the cheapest
3) You can then afford to buy a few spares and change them if any look different to the rest
4) NGK are without doubt the best brand available but even they accept a ONE IN THREE failure rate, so in any set of 4 plugs you potentially have 2 faulty ones.
5) Faulty plugs do not always show up under normal use or in the form of a misfire, plus it takes an exceptional person to detect an 'occassional' misfire at high rpm anyway.
6) If in doubt, CHANGE ANY plug that looks different to the rest
7) If you've tried everything else and still don't get the performance you expected, change ALL the plugs, because they can 'APPEAR' to be perfect and yet still be inadequate, especially for nitrous.

BTW no matter what you pay for plugs there is NEGLIGABLE difference in performance and the only advantage of expensive plugs is that they 'SHOULD' last longer.
_________________
Regards

Trev (The WIZARD of NOS)

30 years of nitrous experience and counting"

This statement is from a nitrous user posting on the same forum.

"IMO I'd steer clear of Iridium plugs. The Iridium tips are welded on & can & do fall off under det! They have claimed a few high ££££ engines in the past I know of & I had a very close call with a Denso Iridium plug after a very small amount of det on a dyno tuning session.
Copper core NGK's all the way for me & everyone I know that's seen the damage cause by Iridium plugs!

Bill"

In the end, this is not meant to scare anyone running Iridium plugs, I've personally (Rob43) been running them for years with zero problems. In extreme situations like detonation, A LOT of other bad things can happen before an Iridium tip ever breaks off.


Rob

subd will read later :)

Wow good info rob, thanks for sharing.

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Bimmer

Good work Jay!

Can't wait to see this thing again :4ngie:

Soon! We have to make some videos. I also need some window decals :D Should have some more updates tomorrow!

Another pic of the weight savings. Did the VCG today. New fuel filter/Dashboard tomorrow. Will update again then.