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-   -   2001 E46 330Ci Intermittent Engine Fault (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=909540)

robwallace 03-15-2012 11:31 AM

2001 E46 330Ci Intermittent Engine Fault
 
Hi. My car (2001 E46 330Ci) has been doing this for a while and I did post something about it before. The scenario is that from cold it normally will run perfectly, no problem. If I then turn the engine off, leave it for say 30 mins or so and go back to it, it will not want to start but eventually will and will run rough as you like and won't really want to rev. The problem normally does not happen when it is cold weather and the engine will cool down quicker, when it is sunny it will do it all the time. I had it scanned and it came up with cam inlet sensor and one of the post exhaust lambda sensors. I had the cam inlet sensor changed and car was fine for about a week but now it is up to is old tricks again. Had it scanned again and the same 2 codes are coming up, cam inlet and post exhaust lambda. I spoke to BMW and they were useless, then spoke to an independent BMW garage and he said it could be something to do with rubber seals on the EJR valve or mass air flow sensor/meter? What do you guys think? It is driving me mad and I'm spending money and getting nowhere. THANK YOU! :-)

robwallace 03-16-2012 07:48 AM

Any ideas people? Going to take it up to a BMW specialist if not, just wanted your thoughts? .....

jfoj 03-16-2012 07:52 AM

Hard to tell with the limited info you provide here.

What are the specific code numbers?

Forget the post catalytic converter O2/Lambda sensor code, has nothing to do with your current problem if this is in fact a correct code.

Does the car crank over, but not start?

If you have an intake camshaft sensor code, these are known problems, suggest you replace that sensor, then move forward after codes are cleared.

In the future, provide more details, it is hard do diagnose without a lot of detail.

shanneba 03-16-2012 08:14 AM

The description of your starting issue after sitting for 30 minutes sounds like it could be a problem with the non return valve in your fuel pump.
You can test this by checking the fuel pressure, it should be 50psi +- 3 psi with the engine idling. the pressure should be retained when the car is turned off.


http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/05/38/45

Description of operation: pressure retaining function
The pressure regulator closes when the engine is at a standstill and the ignition key is in position 0. The fuel pressure in the delivery line is retained over an extended period. A non-return valve closes in the fuel pump. These measures help to retain the fuel pressure in the fuel system. Extended starting times are thus avoided.

Complaint: starting problems
- Run engine briefly at idle speed and switch off.
- Note down measured value while engine is stopped.
- Read off measured value again after approx. 20 to 30 minutes while engine is stopped.
Special tool 13 3 010 (hose clamp) is required for the following test.
If the measured value has dropped by more than 0.5 bar:
- Start engine and wait briefly for a stable pressure increase.
- Switch off the engine and immediately pinch off the delivery line just before the pressure gauge with the special tool 13 3 010.
- Note down measured value
- Read off measured value again after approx. 20 to 30 minutes while engine is stopped
If the measured value has now dropped by less than 0.5 bar, the following faults can be present:
- Fault in delivery lines
- Fault in in-tank delivery hose
- Faulty pressure-holding non-return valve in fuel pump
Check components. Replace faulty components.
If the measured value has dropped by more than 0.5 bar again:
- Replace pressure regulator



robwallace 03-16-2012 08:38 AM

jfoj, thanks for the reply. Sorry I didn't provide codes. The car does start but only after cranking for 5 secs or so, then runs like it isn't firing on all cylinders. I have changed the intake cam sensor, cleared codes and the problem persists. Was scanned again and codes came back again. I will do my best to get the codes and see but they referred to intake cam sensor and the lambda that you said not to worry about.

shanneba, thank you too for your reply. I will get that checked out and report back to you, thanks again.

jfoj 03-16-2012 09:52 AM

If the intake camshaft position sensor was in fact replaced, was an OEM camshaft position sensor used or an aftermarket sensor?

Also if a BMW specific code reader is being used, sometimes you get more specific details about the sensor circuit, such as an open or a short?

Maybe there is a wiring problem to the sensor, loose terminals in the connector, or maybe a non OEM sensor was used? I cannot tell you for sure that non OEM sensors are bad or not wise to use, but I have read many reports that suggest that OEM sensors are the best to use.

If the fuel pump is an issue, usually you can turn the key on and off a few times before you start the car to pressurize the fuel rail even if the there is problem with the fuel line bleeding down. If a fuel line leakage is an issue, the key on and off 3-4 times to prime the fuel line will result in a more immediate start. This may give you some idea if fuel line pressure loss is a problem.

On a side note, fuel pumps are problems in these cars, you might check the history to see if a pump has ever been replaced.

robwallace 03-19-2012 06:42 PM

come to think of it, when the car does it I tend to turn it off and wait a second then start it again and it starts almost instantaneously and is a little better, so a fuel pump could be the issue? The codes by the way were P0160 and P0340. Thanks

Poorboyz 03-19-2012 07:13 PM

I'm having same problem but mine won't start at all. Looking for a fuel pump DIY

robwallace 03-19-2012 07:22 PM

Let me know how you get on with yours. I may just buy a pump too to see if it sorts it rather than forking out more for diagnostics, which would cost more than a pump! I will keep you posted too!

jdstrickland 03-19-2012 07:30 PM

P0340 is the intake cam position sensor. This sensor is located at the forward end of the head, behind the oil filter canister lid and tucked under the VANOS solenoid. It is not a difficult part to replace, although the connector location is a royal pain to get to.

Remove the air filter box and the lid from the oil filter canister. You should be able to get the sensor out from there. It has a single screw holding it in, and I remember it as a 5mm or 5.5mm allen.

jdstrickland 03-19-2012 07:31 PM

P0160
BMW
O2 Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2, Sensor 2)

You can play with the fuel pump if you want, but it will not fix either of the two codes you reported.

jdstrickland 03-19-2012 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poorboyz (Post 14203992)
I'm having same problem but mine won't start at all. Looking for a fuel pump DIY

If you have not pulled codes, then you are wasting your time and money.

If you _really_ have the "same problem" then the fuel pump is not the answer.

robwallace 03-19-2012 07:41 PM

Hi thanks for your reply, I have already replaced the cam inlet sensor and the car was ok for around 3/4 days then did it again (hard to start after use and sitting for half hour or so and then ran rough). I am just trying ascertain what else the issue could be as I am continually getting told different things. A BMW specialist told me it could be a MAF or EJR valve too, and now I have fuel pump thrown into the equation. Any advice is welcomed! Thanks, :-)

jdstrickland 03-19-2012 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robwallace (Post 14204096)
Hi thanks for your reply, I have already replaced the cam inlet sensor and the car was ok for around 3/4 days then did it again (hard to start after use and sitting for half hour or so and then ran rough). I am just trying ascertain what else the issue could be as I am continually getting told different things. A BMW specialist told me it could be a MAF or EJR valve too, and now I have fuel pump thrown into the equation. Any advice is welcomed! Thanks, :-)

If the problem was other than the Intake Cam Sensor, the code would be different.

Do not tell us what the code was last week, tell us the code for today. You may have fixed last week's problem, now there is a new one. You cannot assume the same problem is back. It may be back, but you cannot assume so.

Actually, the code last week is good to know, thanks for sharing. But the problem was fixed for a few days and now there is another problem. That is the way to look at this. It could be the same problem again, but the assumption must be that there is a new problem.

Part of the problem is that you don't know your car very well, which is okay. You have called it a "cam inlet sensor" at least 4 times, but this is not the proper name for the part. P0340 INTAKE CAM SENSOR. This sensor tells the car the position of the cam -- which tells the car if valves are open or closed and that triggering the spark is a good thing to do. Without a stable Intake Cam Sensor, the engine will randomly stop running. My experience with this part is limited, but the woman that had it go bad (I did the repair) reported that the car would not get underway from a stop sign or light very well -- the car would studder badly. She could turn it off and back on, and usually it would run again for a considerable amount of time. The problem was that it would kill the engine in traffic, and the implications of this are obvious.

If your independent BMW guy installed an other than OEM sensor, there is a good chance the sensor is faulty and you need another one. This is a good place to use genuine BMW parts. You can find them at many online places at far better prices than the BMW dealership.

The part you need, the intake cam sensor, creates a square wave that the computer counts as the wave form goes by. If the waveform has waves that are not the prescribed shape, then the car will not know when to fire the spark plugs, and you have an engine that runs poorly and dies at random times -- although not usually while actively engaged in driving, such as on the highway at speed.

robwallace 03-19-2012 08:03 PM

Thanks, my mechanic had the codes written down and simply gave them to me again so I thought I would share them. I will get him to scan the car again tomorrow (it's 1am in the UK now where I am) to see what the current codes that is has thrown up are. Apologies for using the incorrect terminology too in my description, I work with computers not cars so my knowledge is fairly limited.

jdstrickland 03-19-2012 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robwallace (Post 14204153)
Thanks, my mechanic had the codes written down and simply gave them to me again so I thought I would share them. I will get him to scan the car again tomorrow (it's 1am in the UK now where I am) to see what the current codes that is has thrown up are. Apologies for using the incorrect terminology too in my description, I work with computers not cars so my knowledge is fairly limited.

Over here in the Colonies, we can go to the autoparts store and they loan tools that are seldom used at home. The scan tool belongs in this category for most people.

Some idiot put our steering wheel on the wrong side, but I've learned to adjust. In any case, the data port that one plugs the scan tool into lives in the footwell over the driver's left leg. Since your steering wheel is in the sensible place, and mine is not, then you may find the data port hiding someplace else.

In any event, there is a small cover on the panel on the underside of the dash board that says OBD DATA PORT or something to that effect. Pop the cover and plug the scan tool in. The reason I'm telling you this is because it might help you to understand a little bit about your car. When you get the codes out of the car, you can simply plug them into the search bar of your browser and get the meaning. You might not be able to operate a screwdriver, but you need to know what is wrong so maybe you can be a little bit more informed as a consumer. If yo ucan use the scan tool from the parts store for free, you will save a ton at the mechanic -- he's got yacht payments that you need to make, you know.


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