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-   -   Drive shaft 6 bolt differential !!! (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=915765)

cyberlando 04-14-2012 06:53 PM

Drive shaft 6 bolt differential !!!
 
so today i started to do my subframe bushing overhaul and started to take apart the driveshaft... from the differential and its on there GOOD!! :banghead:

i tried a hammer and a pry bar and nothing

i used the screw driver to push out the notches it moved a little but after that nothing.......im just :ben:

what worked for you guys!!

uk330i 04-14-2012 07:17 PM

The drive shaft end is like a cv joint. I beat the joint with heavy mallot, even used come-along and the car would move before separating diff from drive shaft. There is a notch on the joint for flat screwdriver insert try prying there. You can spray some stuff like wd40 and than wiggle differential and drive shaft. Eventually it'll separate. It's not rusted it's just really tight there.

ChicagoRY 04-14-2012 07:25 PM

If you live near a store that sells "Boeshield" or "Deep Creep," in no particular order, both of those have worked miracles for me. They are about $10 @ can.

cyberlando 04-14-2012 09:06 PM

im scared that me going crazy with the hammer and flat head that i may damage the balancing of the shaft or even destroy the joint right before the differential.

BeMyWhip 04-14-2012 09:27 PM

Try some PBblaster, let it soak in there good; spray it a few times and rotate it too after each spray.
Let it sit for a while; then use a breaker bar or pipe over your wrench at least 2 feet long, and give it a good quick thrust. GL

Lemonsqr 04-14-2012 09:37 PM

I tried all those things and the fvcker still would not separate. As a last resort, I put the E brake on nice and hard, started the car, put her into first, slowly let the clutch out, heard a little squeal, problem solved. No scoring on the flange or axel.

cyberlando 04-14-2012 09:48 PM

OKAY SO THE EBRAKE AND dropping the clutch method wins!

will try this tomorrow!!

cyberlando 04-14-2012 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lemonsqr (Post 14293391)
I tried all those things and the fvcker still would not separate. As a last resort, I put the E brake on nice and hard, started the car, put her into first, slowly let the clutch out, heard a little squeal, problem solved. Do scoring on the flange or axel.

what do you mean do scoring on flange or axel??? did it damage anything at all doing this?

Stinger9 04-15-2012 03:24 PM

He meant to mark the two so you put them back together the way they came off rotational-wise.

Lemonsqr 04-15-2012 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberlando (Post 14293412)
what do you mean do scoring on flange or axel??? did it damage anything at all doing this?

sorry, supposed to be "no", not "do".....did not damage anything....

cyberlando 04-15-2012 09:20 PM

actually i tried the clutch trick and it didnt work.............annoying so i got out and just started beating the crap out if it!!! and slowly but surly it popped right out!!

but when i tried the clutch trick i actually broke the inside piece of the rotor......because all the force was being held by that one rotor screw so it broke free taking a small piece of the inside rotor!......good thing i had a spare...smh

cyberlando 04-15-2012 09:22 PM

and actually i after beating the hell out of it all the marks i left came off......from the liquid wrench and wd-40 combinations..........lets say i just put it back together would i have a problem.....is there a way to align it without the marks?

Stinger9 04-15-2012 09:30 PM

That's why he said scoring. Scratch the two sides and the marks won't wash away.
No way to know where you were if you lost the marks. See if you can't look for any clues at all as to how to get them back in their original position?
If not, guess and try it. If wrong, you'll be down there again doing the rotational music chairs.

Lemonsqr 04-16-2012 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberlando (Post 14295882)
and actually i after beating the hell out of it all the marks i left came off......from the liquid wrench and wd-40 combinations..........lets say i just put it back together would i have a problem.....is there a way to align it without the marks?

Cr4p, sorry to hear that the clutch trick didnt work and you ended up with a messed up rotor. if you are talking about the driveshaft to input flange alignment, its not necessary. As long as the bolt holes line up you are good to go. if you think about it, there really is no need to have the shaft and flange lined up the way it came from the factory because there is no set torque or balancing between the two pieces. Just line up the shaft and flange and torque the bolts equally and you will be fine.

cyberlando 04-16-2012 08:10 PM

That's wat I did and I'm driving around now.......no issues as yet......what exactly am i feeling for?

And don't worry bout the rotor thing bro all is good great help!!!

But I might as well tell you guys that my rear sway bar broke at the link in reassembly, had my buddy helping out and left for a minute came back one side of the rear sway bar broke off......so now I'm driving around until the part comes in with no rear sway!!!


How bad is that...?? Don't really feel a difference.....but I am being really gentle.

Stinger9 04-16-2012 09:22 PM

Did you say the sway bar broke? Or just the link?

If it's the bar that broke, perfect opportunity to get the Turner rear 21mm bar for $215!

Lemonsqr 04-16-2012 09:24 PM

A broken swaybar endlink is OK to drive on as long as you dont corner too sharply or go over really uneven roads (such as ones with ruts) or change lanes fast. Basically you want to avoid any situation where you are changing the weight distribution in the rear or road conditions/driving conditions that change the height of the rear wheels in relation to one another.

cyberlando 04-16-2012 09:29 PM

Nahh its just the aluminum link what garbage smh......such soft metal
But as far as getting a turner sway bar nahhh.....I'm pretty much prepping for a M rear end swap and the 6 speed tranny......if I bought the bar now it would be a waste, as it wouldnt fit on the M

TitaniumCranium 04-17-2012 01:04 AM

If you ever have to do this again, a pneumatic hammer and a compressor will have this piece off in about 20 seconds. I too started down the futile path of beating the crap out of it with a steel bar and a 2 lb sledge. It didn't budge.


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