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-   -   new radiator new problems (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=937292)

napaxcon 08-06-2012 06:28 PM

new radiator new problems
 
so here it is, i was leaving work the other day and had my car in sport mode i took off from a red light accelereating pretty quick... not to hard, just buzzing around . all of the sudden i noticed steam coming from my hood i looked down and my car did not shift it was red lined. so i pull over notice the ratiator spewing out coolant at the plastic elbow attached to it... today i replaced the radiator and now my car is over heating. i put everything back together right!. i changed the tsat, water pump, belts some pullys expansion tank just recently. and as i was taking off the expantion tank to change the radiatior the trans tstat broke and shot up in the air. so i changed that today to. now for some reason my car is over heating , i bled the system properly ! the problem is there is endless air in there i have been bleeding it for the past six hours and have never had to do it for more than 20 min before. i dont know whats wrong , its just air and steam coming out the bleeder screw then some coolant. but as i let the car warm up, more air and steam followed by more coolant ect. is it possable by my car over heating the first time it blew the new t stat? if i feel the top raid hose its really hot and i can feal air bubbles or boiling in there. maybe its the new tstat for the trans? i have no leaks so what is the prob.there is also no heat when set to 91! im going to try putting in the old tstat tommorrow and see if that was it and if not its going to the shop and i really dont want to do that.... any info or ideas please.



Quick info about the car_ 02 325i sedan, 124,000 miles, new vanos seals and rattle repair, water pump, tstat..both, serpentine and ac belt, sway bar links , tie rods, control arms, brakes, rotors, stock airbox put back in today.

bratliff 08-06-2012 06:38 PM

Overheating can destroy a thermostat in my experience. Your car shouldn't be heating up that much during bleeding. If it is, there is something more than trapped air wrong.

//Maxwelljuppercut 08-06-2012 07:56 PM

is it bubbling like its maybe losing compression into the coolant system?

Slopestyle 08-06-2012 08:10 PM

Your going to have to drain your coolant from the block. Try to drain into a clean container to see if theres anything other than coolant coming out. You likely over filled the expansion tank, your failure sounds catastrophic. Or at least you make it sound that way. Unfortunately bro man dude. All that stuff you did. You may have to do most of it again. This time pay a little more attention to detail.

napaxcon 08-07-2012 04:40 AM

Ya like I said im going to try the old tstat to see if that's the problem first , then ill move on to whatever I can think of next. And no I didn't over fill the expantion tank and I always pay attention to detail. The cooling system is not that complicated so im pretty sure ill figure out the problem soon.

dmax 08-07-2012 06:14 AM

First, try bleeding when cool using an alternative method. Search me, "bleeding 4K rpms 20 secs.' I hope that one of my posts comes up for you.

Also, you know you can just remove the thermostat from the housing and try that. If coolant is totally fresh, you can reuse it if you're able to catch and strain it (use paint strainer)...but in my experience, it's not worth it.

I think while you're trouble shooting, that you 'should' drain from block, fill SLOWLY with distilled (even slower than that!) while in pos 2, heater on high, fan on low (usual bleeding instructions).

You were bleeding while the car was hot, so you'd expect to see bubbles come up and the coolant rise.

If you didn't replace ET cap, that would be one place you might get lucky.

Also, there are two issues with bubbles that I know of...one, they can block a passage, and two, they can cause the wp to cavitate and not pump coolant at all.

I'll assume all components were OE...if not, AM therm is often a problem.

If you haven't done it yet, check radiator from underneath. Many here put in the wrong radiator or its leveling screw. My replacement Behr didn't have the screw like my original OE rad did, so you need the right Behr. If you have an OE rad with leveling screw, you might have the wrong screw in and thus you'd leak from behind the ET bracket.

Right now, since you've almost replaced everything (only hoses and temp sensor are still original it sounds like), I hope it's just a little thing and doesn't require that you replace everything again. But don't assume anything new is working right...they sometimes don't. Also, when a radiator blows, that pressure build up can also break the ET, which gets a fine crack in the corner that's barely noticeable when shut off because it closes up tight. Look closely.

HTH...GL!

napaxcon 08-07-2012 01:37 PM

ok so i just went and rebled the system, still nothing. the uper house is hot and lower is cold so its not cycling . so im gonna go switch out the therm and re bleed it right after i crack open this beer,! be back soon with the same problem im sure!

napaxcon 08-07-2012 01:39 PM

oh by the way it is a behr radiator it has the new style bleed screw it fits fine

Schlag96 08-07-2012 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by napaxcon (Post 14632835)
i bled the system properly ! the problem is there is endless air in there i have been bleeding it for the past six hours and have never had to do it for more than 20 min before. i dont know whats wrong , its just air and steam coming out the bleeder screw then some coolant. but as i let the car warm up, more air and steam followed by more coolant ect.

What do you mean "as I let the car warm up"? Are you running the engine with the bleeder screw open?

napaxcon 08-07-2012 07:44 PM

no after i bleed it and it over heated i cracked the bleeder screw open to see if there was a ton of air left in there. BUT ANYWAYS! PROBLEM SOLVED, it was the water pump. cheap shitty as ****ing piece, the whole impeller broke off , i put the old one in and it works fine, ill be reordering an other one in a few weeks. the one i just baught was supposed to be metal but they sent me the wrong one, i put it in anyway. and because of that i blew my radiator, and now my vanos in making that knocking sound again and leaking from the front of the vcg. i just did the seals and rattle repair kit and the vcg and it looks like im gonna have to do it again. first im gonna try an oil change, there is also a bolt holding the front of the valve cover gasket down where it is leaking that broke when i went to make sure it was tight! it was loose and just kept spinning so i twisted it off...... i dunno ill do an oil change and gaskets before i redo the vanos! ****ing bullshit, all because a cheapo waterpump!

Slopestyle 08-07-2012 07:57 PM

OEM parts man. My brother is going to school for automotive. He stated clearly, OEM is the best quality unless an aftermarket brand has clearly proven itself.

pawelgawel 08-07-2012 08:21 PM

curious what brand of w/p did you get??
Metal or plastic, the impeller shouldnt fall off ...

Sent from my SGH-I727R using Bimmer App

napaxcon 08-07-2012 08:56 PM

I think it was a wahler and trust me the whole thing broke to pieces ill upload a pic if I can figure out how

napaxcon 08-08-2012 07:30 PM

so yeh every thing is running cool now wich is good but theres a ticking sound coming from the waterpump. i thaught it was the vanos but after puting a screw driver to both and my ear its clearly the pump. i have no idea why. it was the old oem waterpump i put that worked fine before so.... any suggestions?


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