Oil pan gasket sealant... dreibond, Hondabond, ultra-gray, ultra-black??
 

What have you used with no leaks? I want to be sure and do this right the first time. I have a tube of Ultra-Black (spare me the jokes, Dmax), was wondering if it's suitable for the job. Supposedly, it's good for high temps and oil... but the oil pan is a different beast.

simple question but i need to ensure 100% success

The oil pan gasket does a pretty good job in and of itself and you really should only need product in a few select areas. Any of those products should do the trick if applied properly and allowed to cure before being subjected to oil, heat, and crankcase pressure.

Ultra Black will work just fine. If I remember right, that's what I used on my E36's oil pan in 2007 or so, and it's still holding up.

I'm partial to Hondabond. Fujibond (Subaru stuff) is similar and also pretty good.. FYI, Honda also makes a gasket maker specifically for gaskets that see oil now (whereas Hondabond would historically be used for everything). I used that on my WRX oil pan (Subaru goes metal on metal with no gasket and only sealant) with good results (no leaks 15K miles after the job, but I sold the car then).

Just be sure to let the product tack up slightly before pressing mating surfaces together, unless otherwise instructed differently on the container, and don't fill with oil right away. I'd prefer to wait a day to be safe, but if you need the car, 12 hours should be sufficient. Drying time and proper torquing are the most important things, along with making sure the mating surfaces are completely clean. I like to use a scotchbrite scrubby. Just enough abrasiveness to clean it well, but not enough that it will scar the metal. After that, wipe down with a lint free rag that has some brake cleaner spritzed on it.

Hondabond is good stuff. Highly recommended. If they had Bimmerbond I'd use it, but Hondabond is the next best thing. I plan on getting a tube of it for when I do VANOS.

I know my dealer uses ultra-gray for the rear diff plate...which doesn't use a gasket anymore...but I believe the sealant recommended by bmw requires quick connection...that you don't want it to tack up first...

I know you'll read the directions on the container, Mango, so I'm not worried. Be careful with that ultra black. I hear that once you "go" Ultra-Black, you can't go back. :lmao:

lol thanks guys. i'll just use my ultra black. and i knew it dmax.. you're right.. you never go back! i asked Benn. He knows.

Crap I'm time limited and can't let the car sit... I'll of course make sure all surfaces are immaculate and i'll follow TIS's recommendations of 2mm high, 3mm wide bead of sealant at seams front and rear (4 total)

We know BMW isn't letting cars sit in their service bays for 24 hours to dry...

The starter on my E36 M3 was replaced by the dealer under warranty before it came into my hands. When I replaced the clutch, and went to remove it, I found the starter secured with 1 bolt (instead of 2). It was 5" long, had a hex head (not torx), and was clearly the wrong bolt for the application. I had to pull the intake manifold to get it out. I've found more of their handywork in the car as well, and other cars i've worked on that have been to the dealer.

But I digress...what was that about BMW following the most prudent protocol again? They're the biggest hacks of them all! ;)

Seriously though, you'll be fine. Just give it as long as possible to dry.

Uh, oh...that doesn't sound like the Mango I know! But, you're right, I'm sure the dealer repair doesn't require an overnight visit...but if you hold a bit, I'll check my sources on that and see what I can find.

it doesnt need to.

Last time I was in the auto parts store, I started reading all the rtv labels...they all vary greatly in temp resistance, oil contact, sensor safe, etc....

Ultra black, according to the unopened container I'm reading right now has:

Maximum oil resistance
rtv silicone gasket maker

High temp formula--up to 500 F

Fast curing

Low odor/noncorrosive

Sensor safe

Not to be used as a personal lubricant.

Assemble parts immediately. Finger tighten, allow to dry for 1 hour, then retighten 1/4-1/2 turn.

Dries in one hour, fully cures in 24.

Don't use it on head gaskets or parts contacting gasoline.

Sounds good to me...I might follow your diy soon...so hope it all works out for you!

:rofl:

Black Toyota's FIPG (form-in-place-gasket). No issues.

Thank you Nervous and DMAX. And Fiveeightandten, I totally understand what you're saying... I always tell people that lots of BMW dealer techs are idiots. The things I've seen and heard.