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-   -   Expansion tank cap.. (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=945076)

Raptor17 09-17-2012 12:55 PM

Expansion tank cap..
 
Hi guys, recently had my expansion tank done, The old cap keeps coming loose when putting on tight, good idea to buy a new one?

Also uncovered an underlying problem... front passenger side alloy wheel gets very hot. I'm i right in thinking its a piston that is stuck and causing the brake cylinder to rub and cause friction? I haven't had the time to have a proper look, but did the ET with help from here.

Thanks,

Raptor17

Mango 09-17-2012 12:56 PM

good idea to buy new EVERYTHING. see sig. do it all

Raptor17 09-17-2012 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E46Mango (Post 14738221)
good idea to buy new EVERYTHING. see sig. do it all

cheers dude reading over now!

Koffinb 09-18-2012 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E46Mango (Post 14738221)
good idea to buy new EVERYTHING. see sig. do it all

why do u always suggest for people to do it all? It could be just a faulty cap. Not everyone can always afford to "do it all" especially if 'all' isnt needed.I know youre gonna say something along the lines of 'if you can't afford to maintain it then why'd you buy it?' but lets be realistic.

We don't always need to do every damn thing when it comes to a minor cooling part

dmax 09-18-2012 04:15 AM

Had you ever removed your ET cap before, OP? If not, what you might be feeling is the looseness we all feel from the ratcheting mechanism in the lid.

After you tighten it, the top of the cap will wiggle. Don't make the cap too tight. Once the o-rings are in the neck of ET, the cap is basically sealed...then it hits the rubber gasket...you don't need to screw it on crazy tight at all.

Lubricate the o-rings with coolant or just water...but once it's tight, it will feel like the top of the cap is loose. I don't think yours is broken, but if you do...$10 for a new one. Good thing to replace with ET.

If it's leaking, that could be cap, but it could be overfilling.

The wheel getting hot could be piston, but it could be guidepins. Remove caliper, check things out. See if the seal on caliper is broken...if it is, likely it is piston. In any case, the caliper up, I grease the guidepin and bushing, but you have to use brake grease...and technically, bmw says not to do this...though my remanned calipers came with grease...so it's not crazy to do this...just fyi! Check pad wear too...if it's on a wheel without sensor, you probably will need pads if this has been going on a while...and measure rotor thickness, coz you might need new rotors too.

Zell 09-18-2012 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raptor17 (Post 14738217)
Hi guys, recently had my expansion tank done, The old cap keeps coming loose when putting on tight, good idea to buy a new one?

Also uncovered an underlying problem... front passenger side alloy wheel gets very hot. I'm i right in thinking its a piston that is stuck and causing the brake cylinder to rub and cause friction? I haven't had the time to have a proper look, but did the ET with help from here.

Thanks,

Raptor17

If you are on a budget:

1. Buy a new cap, inspect everything else. Biggest failure points will be your plastic pulley and water pump, but if you have a composite water pump it's really only going to fail once the bearings give out, and chances are you're going to have some sort of obvious noise. That seems to be the biggest giveaway. Mine had over 103k miles and felt good as new when I pulled it out, but I had a new one already so I figured I'd the new one in. Follow the Bentley manual for inspecting hoses, if they look and feel good then don't worry. Your hose isn't going to catastrophically explode, it'll leak from the connecting points before that happens. I've seen no cases of hoses exploding on this forum.

2. While you're ordering a few things, order the temp. sensor o-ring and keep it handy if your sensor ever leaks. A simple replacement of that solves it.

You can get away with this without a problem. The difference is you'll be replacing some other individual component later on down the line. It's easier to replace everything all at the same time since the wear times will all be the same, but not necessary. The only absolutely and completely necessary things I would say are to replace the expansion tank with the new improved one, replace the plastic impeller (if you have one) with a composite one, and get a metal water pump pulley. If you replace those, catastrophic failure is majorly decreased and you'll basically only need to worry about small leaks at that point.

3. Your wheel symptom is exactly the same symptom as a stuck piston. Rebuild your calipers. Best to rebuild the two pairs both at the same time since you'll need to bleed the system anyway. It's really easy, requires only compressed air (I bet even a modified bike pump could work), a pick tool, and a rebuild kit (basically just two rubber seals). Pop out the piston with compressed air, remove the old seals, clean up the piston real well with brake cleaner, take a scotchbrite pad to the corroded section (usually the edge of the bore, but do not scratch up the piston; it is machined to a very fine tolerance. Use 00 or 0000 steel wool and brake cleaner if you need to clean corrosion off of it), put in the new o-rings, lubricate with brake fluid, reinstall the piston and you're good to go.

You can watch any generic video on how to rebuild a single-piston brake caliper. They're really all the same in the end. Brakes are really simple systems when you think about it...the addition of ABS and such, however, makes them complicated. The actual mechanism is beyond simple though: don't let it intimidate you. It's just a piston that gets pushed by fluid, then bounces back a little bit by the rubber dust boot.

...or you can just go to AutoZone and ask them for a single rebuilt E46 caliper for your model. They're like $50. Plus they're cleaned up all nice and good :)

Mango 09-18-2012 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koffinb (Post 14740184)
why do u always suggest for people to do it all? It could be just a faulty cap. Not everyone can always afford to "do it all" especially if 'all' isnt needed.I know youre gonna say something along the lines of 'if you can't afford to maintain it then why'd you buy it?' but lets be realistic.

We don't always need to do every damn thing when it comes to a minor cooling part

:lmao:

Do you really think you should be giving advice?

Lets take a look at your recent questions or problems on this forum:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...149&highlight=
(Help--stealership tries to rob me!)

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...846&highlight=
(How much oil does my car take??)

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...252&highlight=
(Is there such a thing as too many oil changes??)

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...786&highlight=
(First vehicle I purchased on my own!!)

Look, kid, I've owned over 12 vehicles (7 of them BMWs) and have saved countless number of BMWs both online and especially in person. I've never seen a check engine light in my life. I could go on and on but my point is I am good for cars. The advice you're giving out (don't replace everything) is potentially bad.

To people on budgets, I give advice if asked. If you don't know that, you haven't been paying attention. And if you haven't been paying attention, you shouldn't be telling me how to advise people.

Now back on topic, OP said he read my thread. Any questions, I'm all ears.

Mango 09-18-2012 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zell (Post 14740762)
If you are on a budget:

1. Buy a new cap, inspect everything else. Biggest failure points will be your plastic pulley and water pump, but if you have a composite water pump it's really only going to fail once the bearings give out, and chances are you're going to have some sort of obvious noise. That seems to be the biggest giveaway. Mine had over 103k miles and felt good as new when I pulled it out, but I had a new one already so I figured I'd the new one in. Follow the Bentley manual for inspecting hoses, if they look and feel good then don't worry. Your hose isn't going to catastrophically explode, it'll leak from the connecting points before that happens. I've seen no cases of hoses exploding on this forum.

2. While you're ordering a few things, order the temp. sensor o-ring and keep it handy if your sensor ever leaks. A simple replacement of that solves it.

You can get away with this without a problem. The difference is you'll be replacing some other individual component later on down the line. It's easier to replace everything all at the same time since the wear times will all be the same, but not necessary. The only absolutely and completely necessary things I would say are to replace the expansion tank with the new improved one, replace the plastic impeller (if you have one) with a composite one, and get a metal water pump pulley. If you replace those, catastrophic failure is majorly decreased and you'll basically only need to worry about small leaks at that point.

3. Your wheel symptom is exactly the same symptom as a stuck piston. Rebuild your calipers. Best to rebuild the two pairs both at the same time since you'll need to bleed the system anyway. It's really easy, requires only compressed air (I bet even a modified bike pump could work), a pick tool, and a rebuild kit (basically just two rubber seals). Pop out the piston with compressed air, remove the old seals, clean up the piston real well with brake cleaner, take a scotchbrite pad to the corroded section (usually the edge of the bore, but do not scratch up the piston; it is machined to a very fine tolerance. Use 00 or 0000 steel wool and brake cleaner if you need to clean corrosion off of it), put in the new o-rings, lubricate with brake fluid, reinstall the piston and you're good to go.

You can watch any generic video on how to rebuild a single-piston brake caliper. They're really all the same in the end. Brakes are really simple systems when you think about it...the addition of ABS and such, however, makes them complicated. The actual mechanism is beyond simple though: don't let it intimidate you. It's just a piston that gets pushed by fluid, then bounces back a little bit by the rubber dust boot.

...or you can just go to AutoZone and ask them for a single rebuilt E46 caliper for your model. They're like $50. Plus they're cleaned up all nice and good :)

Should really replace brake components in pairs on the same axle. You don't want one side underperforming compared to the other.

Teddy7 09-18-2012 10:26 AM

Mango, those threads above are almost as embarrassing as mine, but do you not think replacing everything over an expansion tank cap is a little over exaggeration? For example, my entire cooling system is brand new (e.g. couple thousand miles). If my expansion tank cap suddenly started coming loose, would your advice "replace it all" still be the same? I understand OP's system may be overdue, but from what I've read, we don't know the status of his cooling system. I'm going to assume it is due, and your advice is spot-on. I'm just playing both sides of the fence here.

Mango 09-18-2012 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teddy7 (Post 14740983)
Mango, those threads above are almost as embarrassing as mine, but do you not think replacing everything over an expansion tank cap is a little over exaggeration? For example, my entire cooling system is brand new (e.g. couple thousand miles). If my expansion tank cap suddenly started coming loose, would your advice "replace it all" still be the same? I understand OP's system may be overdue, but from what I've read, we don't know the status of his cooling system. I'm going to assume it is due, and your advice is spot-on. I'm just playing both sides of the fence here.

OP's case is not your case and I don't recall him saying his cooling system is all brand new. Obviously if you had a defective cap one month after a brand new system was installed, you wouldn't need to replace it all.

Isn't that self-explanatory or did you really need me to explain that?? :lmao:

I never claimed to be an expert at anything. I just combine common sense with experience. Simple as that

Teddy7 09-18-2012 10:44 AM

I guess the cool thing to do is add one of these things in every time I post :lmao:. Now that I got that out of the way... That's what I was trying to point out. You didn't know the status of his cooling system, but you automatically tell him to replace it all. That's pretty solid advice, but definitely an assumption. I'm not hating, since most likely, OP's cooling system has been neglected and he is doing the "replace one part at a time" approach. In that case, yes replace it all. I just think you are a little too eager to find the next thread to say "replace it all, refer to sig". Oh... and... :lmao:

Mango 09-18-2012 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teddy7 (Post 14741055)
I guess the cool thing to do is add one of these things in every time I post :lmao:. Now that I got that out of the way... That's what I was trying to point out. You didn't know the status of his cooling system, but you automatically tell him to replace it all. That's pretty solid advice, but definitely an assumption. I'm not hating, since most likely, OP's cooling system has been neglected and he is doing the "replace one part at a time" approach. In that case, yes replace it all. I just think you are a little too eager to find the next thread to say "replace it all, refer to sig". Oh... and... :lmao:

Better to be assume the worst and recommend the best. The one time I don't recommend replacing it all might be that particular OP's last drive in his BMW. Then he'll say he wish he would have known (like so many members do). That's where I come in.

New members especially are great candidates for this advice.

Teddy7 09-18-2012 10:55 AM

Well you know what. I can't argue with that approach. I'll keep off your case, even if it rubs me a little wrong at times.

Koffinb 09-18-2012 11:17 AM

lol the internet is full of pricks, i'm glad you've been paying attention to my posts though. Do not refer to me as 'kid'. I wasn't advising anyone i was simply asking why u suggest replacing it all every time. You took it pretty far...hope you're proud of yourself.

Mango 09-18-2012 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koffinb (Post 14741186)
lol the internet is full of pricks, i'm glad you've been paying attention to my posts though. Do not refer to me as 'kid'. I wasn't advising anyone i was simply asking why u suggest replacing it all every time. You took it pretty far...hope you're proud of yourself.

:rofl: someone's mad!!

If you go back to your recent ticking engine thread, I put in time and effort trying to help you. :hi: And now you're calling me a prick. Man these fanatics sometimes! :ben:

Teddy7 09-18-2012 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koffinb (Post 14741186)
lol the internet is full of pricks, i'm glad you've been paying attention to my posts though. Do not refer to me as 'kid'. I wasn't advising anyone i was simply asking why u suggest replacing it all every time. You took it pretty far...hope you're proud of yourself.

Dude, lighten up. He's not a prick if he is simply using facts. You made those threads. They aren't fictional. I agree, if you make a thread about how much oil your car needs, etc. Your credibility is put on hold, especially on this site, and quite frankly he can refer to you however he wants.

Zell 09-18-2012 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E46Mango (Post 14740963)
Should really replace brake components in pairs on the same axle. You don't want one side underperforming compared to the other.

Yeah, that's true. I've never actually done this myself, but that's what I would do as well, just for the cosmetic standpoint alone :rofl: I get annoyed when I look at my one new anti-rattle clip vs my old one :P

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koffinb (Post 14741186)
lol the internet is full of pricks, i'm glad you've been paying attention to my posts though. Do not refer to me as 'kid'. I wasn't advising anyone i was simply asking why u suggest replacing it all every time. You took it pretty far...hope you're proud of yourself.

Can't we all just get along?

Mango isn't wrong in his posts. He's entirely correct about the cooling system, shocks, mounts, bushings, etc. They all wear out, the cooling system is a mess in these cars, and the shocks wear out. The only reason why anyone wouldn't do these things is because it's expensive and time consuming to do it all.

You should replace your entire cooling system.
You should replace all of your shocks.
You should replace a lot of your bushings.
You should do the oil pump nut wire mod (necessary if you track or drive hard in high RPMs for extended periods of time a lot during the day)

But do you need to do all of this? You don't need to until it breaks or becomes dangerous (except for oil pump nut, but even then I'd say change your driving habits and stop keeping it above 5-6k all the time. If you track I'd say you have no excuse not to do it).

I try to offer a bare-minimum approach to things, while Mango tries to offer a fix-it-all-and-be-done-with-it approach, which is the mechanically sound and correct way to do it; however, it is generally not the fiscally responsible way. Some people on here just need their car to work because they can't afford to fix everything at the moment. I am one of them. I am keeping it running as best as I can with the very tight student budget that I have. I can do all this other stuff later when I get a job, but I know how it is when you've got only a little money and an unreliable car.

For example, you can get away with replacing only your expansion tank and water pump, but everything is now going to wear entirely unevenly. Your other components are not going to last the same 8 years that your new ones will. They'll wear out well before that, but for the time being, you can get away with it if you have to.

Basically, if you can afford to do the full fix for something, don't skimp on it. If you can't, do the bare minimum, keep the car going until you are financially okay to do the full fix, and get the rest of the things you missed. Your car might not ride as nice and you'll be missing the full experience of it, but it'll work for the time being. Just remember that it's only for the time being, because the older components will eventually give out well before the new ones.

There's nothing wrong with replacing your entire cooling system or suspension system at once. It's just friggin expensive.

Minnetonka 09-18-2012 12:37 PM

The heat on your wheel could also be from a collapsed inner brake line (they are usually a tube within a tube) which keeps pressure on the brakes. Had this happen on my mom's car years back.

Other possibility is the wheel bearing going bad. Usually there's a noise to go with this one but not always.

Also, with the cooling, depending on mileage and $$/, replace it all. Did everything except the radiator at 90k mi on mine. Just a good piece of mind in my case anyway.

Steven747 09-18-2012 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E46Mango (Post 14740957)
:lmao:

Do you really think you should be giving advice?

Lets take a look at your recent questions or problems on this forum:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...149&highlight=
(Help--stealership tries to rob me!)

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...846&highlight=
(How much oil does my car take??)

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...252&highlight=
(Is there such a thing as too many oil changes??)

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...786&highlight=
(First vehicle I purchased on my own!!)

Look, kid, I've owned over 12 vehicles (7 of them BMWs) and have saved countless number of BMWs both online and especially in person. I've never seen a check engine light in my life. I could go on and on but my point is I am good for cars. The advice you're giving out (don't replace everything) is potentially bad.

To people on budgets, I give advice if asked. If you don't know that, you haven't been paying attention. And if you haven't been paying attention, you shouldn't be telling me how to advise people.


Now back on topic, OP said he read my thread. Any questions, I'm all ears.

i have owned my vehicle for 2.5 years and 50k and have not followed your cooling recommendations and have both had money for many performance parts and also have never had a cel except for when i did my headers. i replaced cooling system parts when i saw leaks or aging.

so in reality your recommendations aren't spot on telling people to unnecessarily drop all this money on this that might still last another 25,000 miles.

my car is a perfect example that contradicts what you preach to everyone on this forum.



now to the point of where you start bragging about how many cars you own and have never had a check engine light :lmao: :woot: good for you would you like a piece of candy?

choleaoum 09-18-2012 02:23 PM

lol. another coolant exaggeration war thread.


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