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-   -   Interior is filthy! (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=952164)

SHOoff11 10-24-2012 12:05 AM

Interior is filthy!
 
I have a '99 328i with the tan leather interior and my driver seat and door panel are filthy. The carpets could also use some attention too throughout the whole car. I've searched and I know all about Lexol, but is there anything a little stronger I can use on the seat and door panel? I want to get the interior back to like it was when I first bought it, but don't want to pull the color out of anything. I've seen 303 products recommended, so I'm guessing they would be safe for the leather too? I'm going to swing by the local marine store and see if I can pick some up and give that a try. Please post up any other suggestions or ideas you have!

TOGWT 10-24-2012 03:48 AM

303 is an ultra violet protection paroduct with very little, if any cleaning ability.

"Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html


I hope the information in this article is of some help to you. If you have any further questions please let me know

SHOoff11 10-24-2012 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOGWT (Post 14841907)
303 is an ultra violet protection paroduct with very little, if any cleaning ability.

"Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html


I hope the information in this article is of some help to you. If you have any further questions please let me know

Thanks for the article! I've done some more research today and I think I'm going to purchase this along with some "Leather Honey" http://www.amazon.com/Leather-CPR-CC...pr_product_top

Today I hit it with Lexol and let it soak. That did absolutely nothing at all, so I did something I knew I shouldn't do, but the seats look like ass anyway so I went for it. I got some "Simple Green" and tested on a small area and it pulled a lot of the dirt out, I didn't notice any fading. So I did some more of the seat with it, immediately rinsing, and did this process a few times. After all of that I used the Lexol clean and then the conditioner on it. I'd say the seat looks somewhat better, but far from perfect. A major problem is the dirt in the small cracks in the seat. I'm guessing I can use a soft bristled brush to scrub these when I get these new products in I want to try. Any other possible suggestions? If these products don't work I guess I'll have to pony up the money and take it to a professional detailer and see what they can do with it.

TOGWT 10-25-2012 03:49 AM

For extremely soiled finished leather - use a Griot's 3- inch (speed # 4-5) an Interior Brush for Orbital Polisher (Porter Cable 7424, Griot's Random Orbital Polishers (3 inch and 6 inch) as well as the Cyclo)

The brush has a connector which screws directly into listed orbital polishers. Use with
1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner (Plastik Reiniger) or Leather Master***8482; Strong Cleaner, using very little applied pressure

Alias206 10-25-2012 12:12 PM

I always hear that leatherique is the best. I'm about to order some from detailedimage.com to try it out. here's some links.

http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php...-P64/32-oz-S2/

http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php...-P65/32-oz-S2/

TOGWT 10-26-2012 03:42 AM

There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Here is one definitive truth -you are dealing with the leathers finish, not the hide itself. The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above

Leatherique

The idea of applying the conditioner, allowing time for it to work in a heated environment, before it can be cleaned off which is then rewarded by the rather odd fact that you have to then clean the leather in a secondary stage is really rather odd, and is reminiscent of the Saddle Soap process, used in the equine saddle and bridle industry, before it can begin to clean it must first dissolve its own oils, which limits its capacity to dissolve dirt and oils in the leather, and I can see no technical reason for applying a product in this way. Introducing solvent-based conditioners accelerates aging in leather upholstery and trim.

Top-grain premium leather is mostly used in prestige European automobiles;
Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, and Rolls Royce, US Cadillac and high-end German automobiles such as; Audi, BMW, Daimler AG, Mercedes-Benz, and Porsche, for most of these vehicles premium leather is standard OEM specified equipment, but for most it's a 'premium' package that costs upwards of 2,000 USD . This is the niche market sector both Leatherique and Connolly were originally formulated for.

Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased Isocyanate based ethyl carbamate (urethane) finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern (post '95) automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather.

Oils and soft plastics i.e. polymers, acrylics and urethanes are not compatible; repeated application on to finished leather can cause the break-down of cross-linking and binding agents. Oil accelerates the deterioration of urethane over time. After extended use the condition of the finished leathers pigmentation (colour) will be removed by the oil causing the urethane protection to become delaminated

Any leather conditioner is likely to make urethane feel softer as they all tend to soften up the polymer (urethane) coating; the problem is that due to their molecular size they cannot permeate the urethane, although oils can seep through the stitching.

These so called conditioners act to trap dirt, perspiration, and anything else within the coating that commercial products leave behind and are then absorbed onto clothing. The only thing that can evenly permeate finished leather is water vapour

I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; itís your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice.

But if you feel $50 and approx 4 hours work is a worthwhile investment of time / money to clean finished leather with a thin urethane pigmented covering, thatís your choice


bikesandcars 10-26-2012 09:02 AM

^ Good info.... so what was your recommendation?

My seats are filthy too, along with the rest of the interior.

I have some simple green around the house as well as some simple green Aircraft (formulated to be non-corrosive, does not need to be rinsed off metals).

I think from what you're saying above that nothing works so give up and go home... but i'm not sure.

If it is a urethane coating on my 325xi with sport package, then I don't see a problem spraying with simple green, brushing, and rinsing. Is that what you are saying?

scrace 11-01-2012 12:56 PM

Gliptone leather cleaner and conditioner. Here is why: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=399837

Any all purpose cleaner should take care of dirty interiors and then use 303 to protect it.

Check out www.chemicalguys.com they have a youtube page showing how to use pretty much all their products, and they have great customer service. I detail part time and I haven't been disappointed with any of their products I've tried yet. PM if you have more questions.


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