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-   -   Rear Trailing Arm Bushings DIY tips & suggestions?! (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=953599)

justanotherone 11-01-2012 01:44 PM

Rear Trailing Arm Bushings DIY tips & suggestions?!
 
So I'm going to be attempting to change my RTAB probably next weekend. I've read a few DIYs. I understand the process, but just wanted to know if anyone who's done it had any tips, advice or suggestions!? Plus, I have a few suggestions.

I'm going to be using oem rtabs. Also, I'm planning on buying the mis rtab tool because it seems it makes things much easier.

Question time. I've never had the car on 4 jack stands before. Never had to. This leads to my first question, how high should the rear be raised? I'm planing on driving the front onto ramps and then raising the rear w/ a hydraulic and then setting it on jack stands.

Question #2: The DIYs I have read have used non-oem bushings and used a copper lubricant when inserting the bushing back into the arm console. Do I need a WD40 and a copper lubricant to apply to the new bushing as well, or should I just apply WD40 to the trailing arm console?

Question #3: Anything else I should know before attempting this? I read to disconnect the cable (sensors?). Any input is appreciated, thanks!!

scca_ziptie 11-01-2012 02:06 PM

#1) The rear of the car needs to be high enough to slide under the car on a creeper or just laying on the ground if you are going that route - although this job is much easier if done on a lift (have any friends who work at a shop?). The RTAB tool will certainly make this DIY less frustrating for sure.

#2) You do not need to apply the copper anti seize to OEM RTAB bushings - only when installing poly or delrin bushings(you should actually use the silver graphite anti seize).

#3) 'Score or mark' the rear trailing arm so you can try to get it close when reinstalling the bushings - you will need to do an alignment regardless but it will at least help you get close to where they were before. You will want to disconnect the brake pad sensor wire (there is a disconnect located inside a black plastic box/shroud) on the underside of the car (drivers right underside of car if I remember correctly).

taylor192 11-01-2012 02:47 PM

Why all 4 tires up? With the fronts on ramps it going to be hard to get a jack under the rear, impossible if lowered.

If you're going to lift by the centre support in the rear and your jack doesn't go > 14" high, I suggest getting a block of wood to put between the jack and the centre support otherwise you won't get the rear end high enough to put on jack stands.

scca_ziptie 11-01-2012 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylor192 (Post 14863646)
Why all 4 tires up? With the fronts on ramps it going to be hard to get a jack under the rear, impossible if lowered.

If you're going to lift by the centre support in the rear and your jack doesn't go > 14" high, I suggest getting a block of wood to put between the jack and the centre support otherwise you won't get the rear end high enough to put on jack stands.

This is a good point about lifting the rear of the car. I put mine on 4 jack stands just to make sure the car was completely stable and to give myself enough room to comfortably work - the second time around I had started working at the shop so I was able to use a lift (the way to go if you can gain access to one - so much easier!).

lucky_doggg7 11-01-2012 05:55 PM

If the stock RTAB is being used, be sure to use limiters to help prolong the life of the rubber RTAB. I used this: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...products_id=59. There are plenty of limiters out there; just google the topic and you'll have many to choose from.

illestminimike 11-01-2012 06:54 PM

Oh man I hate doing RTAB's. good luck OP.

nojoda 11-01-2012 10:57 PM

man I have to do this too crapppp

BWOODM3 11-02-2012 07:17 PM

Don't let anyone on here intimidate you. Honestly most of the people on here like to complain about how hard everything is. I guarantee you that when you finish, your going to come back on here and laugh about how easy it was. There isn't that many steps. I got mine out without a Rtab tool. I used a torch :). It's cake man. If you have trouble just MSG me, I'll help you out.

aznniche 11-03-2012 02:17 PM

dont' forget to preload them or the bushing will be stressed when sitting at normal height, causing premature wear. perform a search on this for more info.

Beamer Creamer 11-03-2012 06:25 PM

Question? Is it advised to lift on the diff fins? I never jack on there. Ive jacked all 4 wheels off and i did front then rear a couple times each so didnt get too much angle on jack or could wreck something if slipped. Up to you. Where do you guys place jack stands after lifting from lift points?

justanotherone 11-03-2012 10:51 PM

Welp, I just purchased the OEM rtab and the MIS tool. Hopefully they'll both be here by the this coming weekend and I can tackle the job.

I'm not going to use limiters. Thanks for the advice though!! Also, this "preload" can anyone expand on that?? To do this I have to mark the positioning of the carrier while on the trailing arm?...I plan on using WD40 to clean off and I'll probably end up buying the silver graphite anti seize suggested.

Beamer Creamer 11-04-2012 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherone (Post 14869162)
Welp, I just purchased the OEM rtab and the MIS tool. Hopefully they'll both be hear by the this coming weekend and I can tackle the job.

I'm not going to use limiters. Thanks for the advice though!! Also, this "preload" can anyone expand on that?? To do this I have to mark the positioning of the carrier while on the trailing arm?...I plan on using WD40 to clean off and I'll probably end up buying the silver graphite anti seize suggested.

I believe when your car is sitting on ground normally you dont want any twist in the bushing.(preload). Only time there should be twist is when lifted up or pushing downward

fun05M3 11-04-2012 09:37 PM

Dang, I need to do this too! Thought about going with OEM as well, but still doing my research.

illestminimike 11-04-2012 10:13 PM

Powerflex is nice because you don't have to preload them so install is a bit easier and they last forever. I didn't notice a difference in ride. It did feel a bit more planted after or maybe it's just in my head. My RTAB's weren't even shot so this is coming from somebody who went from good OEM ones to Powerflex.

justanotherone 11-05-2012 05:09 PM

@BeamerCreamer thanks, I'll try not to twist anything haha.

I'll just go with raising the rear, taking the wheels off and from there on just go real nice and slow and hopefully all goes well.

justanotherone 11-05-2012 05:13 PM

Mechanic shop quoted me $380 for the job. Spent about $60 on bushings and about another $90 on rtab mis tool. If I don't mess up anything I'll be saving at least $200! (Assuming I'll spend $30 on miscellaneous, WD40 & anti seize and anything else I might need). Buying all these tools (jacks, wrench, torque wrench, sockets, etc.) is going to start paying off!

Beamer Creamer 11-05-2012 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherone (Post 14874014)
Mechanic shop quoted me $380 for the job. Spent about $60 on bushings and about another $90 on rtab mis tool. If I don't mess up anything I'll be saving at least $200! (Assuming I'll spend $30 on miscellaneous, WD40 & anti seize and anything else I might need). Buying all these tools (jacks, wrench, torque wrench, sockets, etc.) is going to start paying off!

Use white lithium or whatever i guess to start them. I usually emory cloth metal first so fits nice. I havent really looked into the preload and dont really understand but i think it means when main bolt going through middle of bushing is tightened to spec that you will not be able to move bracket on end without putin load on the rubber part. Hopefully someone tells you before you do it. I only get internet now and then and cant search too much

scca_ziptie 11-06-2012 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherone (Post 14874014)
Mechanic shop quoted me $380 for the job. Spent about $60 on bushings and about another $90 on rtab mis tool. If I don't mess up anything I'll be saving at least $200! (Assuming I'll spend $30 on miscellaneous, WD40 & anti seize and anything else I might need). Buying all these tools (jacks, wrench, torque wrench, sockets, etc.) is going to start paying off!

Was an alignment included in the price they quoted you at the shop? If so, I would have gone that route FOR SURE ! Regardless, you will need to do an alignment (rear toe minimum) as it will be off after installing the new RTABs. Good luck with the project, it wasn't terribly difficult when I did it in my garage - popped over and had an alignment done after and all was right with the ///M

taylor192 11-06-2012 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beamer Creamer (Post 14874172)
I havent really looked into the preload and dont really understand but i think it means when main bolt going through middle of bushing is tightened to spec that you will not be able to move bracket on end without putin load on the rubber part.

Kinda. It means the angle the bracket is tightened corresponds to the normal position of the RTA, thus not putting any load on the RTAB.

Setting preload is easy, and doesn't need to be an exact science. You're essentially trying to get the flat part of the RTAB bracket lined up with the middle of the hub. The BMW spec is 8mm above the centre of the hub, yet unless you make the tool to hold the bracket you're never going to be that accurate while torquing down the RTAB bolt.

I just used a yard stick to ensure the bracket lined up. I tightened the bracket in stages and checked the angle several times to ensure the bracket didn't move while being tightened.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...C00887copy.jpg

Beamer Creamer 11-06-2012 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylor192 (Post 14876186)
Kinda. It means the angle the bracket is tightened corresponds to the normal position of the RTA, thus not putting any load on the RTAB.

Setting preload is easy, and doesn't need to be an exact science. You're essentially trying to get the flat part of the RTAB bracket lined up with the middle of the hub.

I just used a yard stick to ensure the bracket lined up. I tightened the bracket in stages and checked the angle several times to ensure the bracket didn't move while being tightened.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...C00887copy.jpg

The preload is stress on bushing when car is in relaxed state sitting on level ground right? So this straight bar technique is just a coincidence that the rtab to body mount is bolted at that angle.... Or is it? I thot bracket bolted in close to exactly horizontal with car? If so then this straight edge wouldnt be correct.is that yardstick technique roughly the book way to set preload? Theoretically if downforce on car at relaxed state of car could be kept on suspension while while removing bracket bolts the rta bracket should move away from surface looking flush and not twisting one way or the other. Im pretty sure that if you have preload on your bushing you would have to use a bit of force to get the bracket level b4 putin bolts in or use bolts to straighten things out by tightening one at a time till others go in. If bracket naturally sits in final position while weight taken off of sudpension wouldnt that mean bushing are at no load at that point and would then be loaded all the time when car weight is applied to susp? Not tryin to be a dick just wanna figure out a satisfactory answer for myself i guess. I know it doesnt need to be exact science but i do like parts to last as long as possible and maybe it wouldnt matter so much sitting with bit of load as it does when baggin corner sideways hitting cracks in road


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