323i 99 M/T Clutch Kit Replacement Q's
found a few DIY guide in replacing my sliding clutch on my 180K 1999 323i E46 - body 2.5L 5Speed M/T but really confuse and lost on which one i should get (that includes the brand and exact part#).
1: which brand would you recommend (LUK/Sachs/GF/Exedy etc..) and using right now? there are a few part# and model# out there and that's why i made this thread because it confuses me a lot which one to buy online??
2: will i be needing a special tool in removing/installing it? now this confuses me again because i read that i might be needing (sold separately) an alignment tool?
3: will an E36 98-99 clutch kit work on my car? i read (i could be wrong) that my car 323i 99 e46 have the same engine on the last generation of e36 body..
4: lastly - any important tips (dos and don'ts) from you guys who previously done it? all the pointers i get will really help me a lot.
thanks all in advance.. :thumbsup:
Go with the name brands. I think the Sachs is made by Liz too.
Yes, you will need the specific alignment pin for your clutch.
Don't forget about your pilot bearing.
Very easy to replace.
323i 1999 2.5L M/T 6Cyl E46 body?
where can i get the alignment tool and pilot bearing?
badly need your help guys!! :bawling: :bawling: :bawling:
for those who DIY installed their clutch kit here is my problem..
first my car and parts info:
- car is 323i 4Door Sedan @190K mileage first time clutch replacement
- flywheel is the same stock
- clutch and pressure plate (Luk 4122E1003) that i bought is (SAC) Luk 03-047 from here: http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=luk+03-047&x=0&y=0
- Luk clutch catalog showing i got the correct kit http://catalog.schaeffler-aftermarke...99&engine=2.5L..
- i reinstalled everything correctly including triple checking the disc to be on the gearbox side (written GETRIEBESEITE)
- torque the pressure plate first to specification then remove the shipping plate after(looks like a ninja shuriken)
PROBLEM: when i start the car, clutch and car wont do anything?? i can even change gear even if i'm not stepping on my clutch while the engine is running.. im also sure that the transmission is changing gears because when i shift to reverse the reverse light will turn ON. i also bleed the clutch and pretty sure no more bubbles coming out of it and the clutch pedal is really hard to step on already..
again car engine is running and i can change gears (1-5 and reverse) without stepping on the clutch
HELP ME guys :bawling:!!!
1: is the pressure plate springs suppose to be compress even if i remove the shipping plate (star shrunken like lock) like this image: http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/8098/61393168.jpg
2: could be my Slave cylinder is now broken?? the reason i asked is during the transmission removal the push rod just fell off the cylinder even without someone stepping the clutch (while cylinder is remove) so i just pushed it back in by hand..
3: any suggestions on what should i do or check?
Thanks to all in advance..
Does not sound good.
Check the slave cylinder to see if it is connected correctly adjective working as it should.
can't think of anything else i did wrong aside from the slave cylinder being broken??
- is the push rod suppose to fall off like that? i just left it hanging on the side when i remove them the transmission and the rods just fell on the floor..
also are the pressure plate springs suppose to be in compress position when all is in place and shipping plate (star lock) remove? i just wanna rule this one out because my old pressure plate (the one i remove) is stretched out..
The slave rod can come out. It just spans the distance from the slave piston to the transmission.
You should verify if your slave is ok, and also verify if your tranny clutch is moving as it should.
Go over online photos and see if you installed it correctly.
Push the clutch fork in to see how the clutch plate travels when you do that.
im rolling for a few days now.. changed the slave, re-bleed the clutch while the slave is installed then im golden..
ah what a painful days that was...
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