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mynewe45ride 02-07-2013 08:41 PM

Help with strut install
 
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I am installing koni orange WITH H&r springs. How tight should the top nut be? I tried as much as i can by holding the nut via socket & vice grip and using a hex key with pliers. I still some gap at the bottom of top plate & shaft where there is 45 deg slope. I am attaching pics. One side is slant so i know i got to redo to align. The nut is definately pita. Koni uses 22 mm nut as compared to 21mm stock.

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mynewe45ride 02-07-2013 08:44 PM

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More pic as bimmer app keeps crashing on my droid. Its not allowing me to upload more than 1 pic.

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mynewe45ride 02-07-2013 08:46 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Top view. Top of shaft is flush with top nut.

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///MPR77 02-07-2013 09:02 PM

You want it pretty tight.

Do what you can while its on the ground, and finish tightening after its all back togehter.

Once installed:

Use an Allen through the Socket, and a clamp on the socket, and vise grips on the Allen, and tighten.

GL.

bernie21614 02-07-2013 09:05 PM

Doesn't look right, there should be about 3 or 4 threads on top of the nut after its tight, you need to keep the spring compressed while you tighten that top nut.

pleiades 02-07-2013 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///MPR77 (Post 15141107)
You want it pretty tight.

Do what you can while its on the ground, and finish tightening after its all back togehter.

Once installed:

Use an Allen through the Socket, and a clamp on the socket, and vise grips on the Allen, and tighten.

GL.

+1. The nut should tighten properly once you have the strut assembly installed and the car on the ground.

If getting a 22 mm socket in there is the problem, Harbor Freight sells a 22 mm (7/8-inch) O2 sensor socket for a few bucks that you can sand down and fit in there quite well while counterholding with an allen key through the center.

hanna 02-07-2013 10:20 PM

I used an impact wrench with a regular (non impact, thinner) 22 mm socket. It's the easiest way, no need for vice grips,etc..

mynewe45ride 02-07-2013 10:24 PM

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Txs for the tips. I got it tight by duck taping a 40 coarse sandpaper on the 22mm deep socket. Then used a c-clamp to tighten it. I got 3 to 4 threads on the top and bottom slope fits tightly. I will check it once i bring her to ground.

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mynewe45ride 02-07-2013 10:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Btw, still used a hex key with pliers to tighten it holding the c clamp. One tip that helped was to hold the strut mount instead of c-clamp when tightening with hex key.

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mynewe45ride 02-07-2013 10:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Final pic from the bottom.

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pleiades 02-07-2013 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hanna (Post 15141371)
I used an impact wrench with a regular (non impact, thinner) 22 mm socket. It's the easiest way, no need for vice grips,etc..

It's also the way that strut installation guides typically warn against using to tighten the upper strut nut.

///MPR77 02-07-2013 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pleiades (Post 15141401)
It's also the way that strut installation guides typically warn against using to tighten the upper strut nut.

Exactly.

Glad it worked out OP.

fth001 02-07-2013 10:33 PM

Or you could spend $30 and save you alot of problems by buying a pass-thru socket set.

genuity 02-08-2013 07:04 PM

I am surprised the inverted hex in the center threaded rod of the strut did not strip before you hit torque spec. :hmm:If anyone ever has Bilsteins and does this, it will surely strip. I wasted all this money getting special sockets and what not to only have it still strip. http://i.imgur.com/TRJYFUG.gif Ask me how I know :rolleyes: Just save yourself some time and impact it on. Meyle end links also uses this retarded design. :thumbdwn:

hanna 02-09-2013 05:45 PM

Yeah, impact works perfect, just do not hammer on it for 5 minutes, zip it and done


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