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-   -   Top stuck...suspect CVM wires 13/14 (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=976213)

4BUCK 03-14-2013 04:59 PM

Top stuck...suspect CVM wires 13/14
 
Top gets stuck midway through opening/closing just like everyone else!

I followed the troubleshooting tutorial and here's what I found:

I tested continuity among all the pins at the CVM. 9/18, 8/17, 7/16 all make a beep. The rest of the tests from the guide show a number in the 400s, except for 13/14. I'm assuming that means there's no continuity between 13/14 (Cowl Unlocked Sensor). I tested with the top half open - not sure if this matters.

I cut open the harness in the top, just above the drivers side window, expecting to see a broken wire or two where most people have resolved this issue. My Green/White (13) and Brown/Yellow (14) look fine - they aren't broken.

Do you think 13 and/or 14 are broken somewhere else? If so, where do you think another breakage point might be?

Do you think it's possible 13 and/or 14 are broken in that spot but the break is inside the wire itself (not visible)?

Do you think this means the Cowl Unlocked Sensor (S145) is broken?

I was thinking of running a wire from the CVM number 13 and/or 14 and splicing it into the harness past the last bend to the same wire. Presumably, if it's just a wire that's broken, the top would work after bypassing the broken wire. Just don't want to splice wires without getting some feedback first.

THANKS!

taylor192 03-14-2013 07:47 PM

You could remove the cover on the latches to test each wire.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Bimmer App

4BUCK 03-14-2013 10:09 PM

Could you expand on that? What latches? Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylor192 (Post 15251196)
You could remove the cover on the latches to test each wire.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Bimmer App


taylor192 03-14-2013 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4BUCK (Post 15251626)
Could you expand on that? What latches? Thanks.

The cowl latches that the wires go to.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Bimmer App

4BUCK 03-15-2013 04:13 PM

From what I've read, it's difficult to remove the cowl trim to expose the Hall Sensor.

So, as a first resort, I'm going to run a "jumper" wire straight from the CVM pins 13 and 14 all the way past the last bend in the top - as far toward the windshield as possible - and see if it's just the wires that are broken.

I'll update with results...

4BUCK 03-16-2013 07:07 PM

Fixed!

I chose to run a jumper wire from just past the CVM to just past the last bend in the top nearest the windshield. I randomly started with wire 13 and low and behold, it worked! This meant wire 13 was broken. Not wanting to run a wire the full length of the harness, I tried removing a 6" section of wire 13 at the last bend in the top near the windshield (where most people's convertible top harness's break), but it didn't work. This meant that my wire 13 had broken somewhere else. When trying to put the top up, it would stop just after the top would start to come out of the trunk. So, I figured the break was near the trunk - impossible for me to splice at that location, just too tight and dark.

I ended up running a new wire from the last bend in the top nearest the windshield, all the way along the harness, and splice it back into wire 13 just a couple inches past the CVM. The challenge was running the wire without it getting in the way of the top's operation. In the C-pillar, behind the dog flaps, the harness disappears into the hinge. I couldn't run my wire exactly the same as the harness because of this. Once I got to the hinge, I had to run it a different route for a few inches and ultimately back to the harness and then into the rear seat. My concern was the new wire getting in the way of the top's operation. Since the final stage of the top going into the trunk doesn't allow for a good view of what's going on, I made extra sure to tape the wire down so it wouldn't get in the way.

Time will tell how long the wire holds up. I really hope it doesn't get snagged, ripped, or in the way somehow. On the bright side, I now know how to fix it! All in all, I'm delighted that I fixed the problem and my top works again, but perhaps more rewarding is the fact that I finally figured out what the problem was.

Couldn't have done it without this forum.

dknightd 03-17-2013 10:55 AM

:)

shift4inc 04-20-2014 08:08 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 554598

I had a similar problem. The break in the wires were not at the first bend in the roof near the windshield as many others have had. I had to remove a few panels and a small metal wire channel cover on the top mechanism to access the break. There was a very distinct bend in the harness just beyond the metal cover. I took a chance and cut the harness open there and low and behold a broken green and white wire.


2004 330Ci Vert

taylor192 04-20-2014 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shift4inc (Post 16113457)
Attachment 554598

I had a similar problem. The break in the wires were not at the first bend in the roof near the windshield as many others have had. I had to remove a few panels and a small metal wire channel cover on the top mechanism to access the break. There was a very distinct bend in the harness just beyond the metal cover. I took a chance and cut the harness open there and low and behold a broken green and white wire.


2004 330Ci Vert

Double check you left enough slack for the hydraulic lines. Your lines look in good shape, yet if you moved them slightly while reinstalling the metal cover then you risk having the metal cover pinch the hydraulic lines if there's not enough slack.

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shift4inc 04-20-2014 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylor192 (Post 16113716)
Double check you left enough slack for the hydraulic lines. Your lines look in good shape, yet if you moved them slightly while reinstalling the metal cover then you risk having the metal cover pinch the hydraulic lines if there's not enough slack.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app


I will, thanks for the tip!


2004 330Ci Vert


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