05-31-2009, 03:00 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: (under my car) Tyler, TX
My Ride: 2001 AW 330Ci
| My comments in red.
Originally Posted by GTUnit
Sorry I should clarify. Aluminum HEADS are better for keeping detonation at bay. Block material not as critical in that respect.
Yes properties make them better in some regards logical no. But if you are right you need to patient this and make a contract with HPF it seems they have been overlooking a key component for a 1000+hp M3.
Thats not how you do it. You MUST keep the charge temps down because fuel will ignite on its own (without the spark) if the temps are too high. Thats where octane comes in. Higher octane fuel is not better, it doesnt have more energy, it is just more stable at higher temperatures.... so you can run more boost, more compression, and higher temps. Even then that fuel has a limit.
If you keep the charge temps down then you can run more boost and thats where you build power. You have to remember the engine materials and fuel have physical limits under which they are controllable and will operate properly.
I'm very familiar with detanotation. I like to think of myself being in rotary exhile at the moment until the new seven arrives. All of my turbo experience comes from 13b's and 13b-msp's. Rotaty motors are much more susceptable to detonation than any piston motor. Its not logical to use a totally different block just for the need to lower your IAT's especially if you may be lowering turbine effientcy as well. Have you any knowledge of turbo systems, inter-coolers, meth injection, turbo effeicenticy levels/selection, cooler plugs and richer afr's. I've even seen bags of ice on intake manni's (not recommended). These turbo system components are alot easier and better than aluminum blocks and heads. In most cases its the hot spark plug cathode (not the spark) that triggers detonation in a rotary (along with compression and iat).
Yes but what concerns me the most is the ecu control and integration into existing systems. That is VERY difficult to get right without dumping the stock engine controls and going stand alone.
I agree but it can be done when and if the right equipment and a good tuner it is avaliable. These good tuners don't all work for TT, bonniville, or any of the other acredited companys we know.
Headers - KW V2 - Hotchkis Sways - 55w 6000k HID - 35w 6000k HID fogs
EVO 3 SSK mit ein DSSR - EE Tails - Meyle LCA, FCAB, & RTAB w/ Rogue Limiters - M3 Mounts ....