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Old 04-29-2010, 03:21 AM   #30
PEI330Ci
58mm of Bliss
 
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: PEI,Canada
Posts: 4,103
My Ride: 330i, 330Ci
Quote:
Originally Posted by F1004fun View Post
Hey guy's I've been busy at the shop, so it's been a while. Yeah Ricky didn't have to much to say about a tool to install or hold the pulley. I have the factory tool for removing and torquing the factory pulley.
Here are my thoughts or the ATI damper, I was gonna use the 3 larger 12-point bolts from the ATI damper to hold a 1/4" thick plate and handle to hold the pulley to torque the crank bolt to the 410Nm? they call for. The other bolts that hold it together are flush on the surface.

As far as installing it I was thinking of putting the whole damper in the oven at about 175F for an hour or two and then using a longer version of the stock bolt and stepped washer. The washer helps keep it all lined up and I don't know where we got the bolt from but I am sure McMaster or MSC can get you a similar bolt. I take a little brake cleaner and spray the end of the crankshaft for a while to cool it down, pull the damper out of the oven quickly spray a shot of thin lube (ZEP 45) on the crank snout, line the damper up, set the bolt and washer up with a little lube on the threads and smoothly run that baby on home. If it doesn't "feel" right I loosen up the bolt a touch and it lets the damper scoot around under the washer and find it's center.
We do them same thing for stock dampers at the shop and it works fine. Now don't get mixed up I would only use the pulley holder for torquing the bolt, as far as holding the crankshaft while running in the installer bolt I would hold the crank by using the flywheel pin in the back of the block.
I am gonna call Ricky tomorrow and see what the progress is on the damper. Apparently I will need to remove my stock damper and give them a final crankshaft measurement to the 0.0001" so I gotta borrow a buddies micrometer and have about a week or so of down time while I wait for final machining.
It won't work, you need a proper installation tool.

They make the damper smaller than the crank snout on purpose so that it get's pressed onto the crank. It helps transmit all the harmonics into the damper.

You don't want to use a longer bolt with washers. Turning that bolt inside the crank will destroy the threads on the crank. I used a 18" wrench to turn the installation tool, and it was on needle bearings to reduce friction. The amount of force it took to press on that damper surprised me, it was a workout.

The OEM damper can be slipped onto the crank with a couple whacks with a hand. Big difference in fit.

Please post up your crank snout measurement, I would be interested to see what kind of deviation might be found. Even though I own 4 M54B30 cranks....LOL

Last edited by PEI330Ci; 04-29-2010 at 03:26 AM.
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