Window Rattle Fix DIY (with pics)
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06-13-2010, 04:56 PM
Join Date: Feb 2010
My Ride: 325ci 2001
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Window Rattle Fix DIY (with pics)
I have a 2001 325Ci and when I drive with the front windows open any amount on a bumpy surface the glass rattles. This really bugged the hell out of me and this weekend I got in there and fixed it. My Haynes Manual told me I could not do this job as it required a specialist and that parts inside needed to be replaced. I thought well if they need to be replaced I can't really break it any more than it already is!
You will need:
Torx 20 driver.
5mm socket on extension with ratchet.
Some form of tape.
Sharp blade (I used a stanley knife).
Small screw driver (BMW one from the boot).
30 minutes per side (DIY shows right side, driver side here in the UK).
Ok to get started we need to get inside the door. I didn't remove the battery connections as you do not need to do anything with the air bag. You will also need to be able to move the window up and down.
There are 5 T20 screws holding the door trim panel on. Shown here:
One behind the interior handle:
Press the small plastic cap near the right side and it will press in. Simply grab hold and remove it:
One behind the airbag badge:
Use the screwdriver and just pry it out from the top and bottom:
There are three under the armrest at the front, middle and back:
You should now have this:
Now you need to pry up one of the edges of the door trim panel to get your fingers under:
Get your fingers under the panel and now just give it a sharp tug. The pop clips will release and just keep moving all the way around the edge until it is fully released. You can look in the gap and see where each clip is to remove.
Once the trim panel is free do not let it drop there are things attached:
You need to remove the cable from the interior door handle. Remove using the small white clip:
Next the speaker cable:
I didn't want to remove the electric mirror control from my arm rest as it risked scratching it so I removed this tape inside the door to give me the slack I needed:
This left me with enough room to move the panel to where it would be if the door were closed. Now you need to start peeling up the right side of the foam covering. I peeled it back and used the sharp blade to slice through it as I pulled:
Hold it out of the way with the tape:
Next you need to peel back the top left corner using the same method and tape that out of the way:
Now there is a bolt arrowed on the above photo shown here closer up:
This is one of the two bolts that hold the window glass in its carrier. It looks like an inverse torx bolt but I didn't have a socket for that and a standard 5mm socket worked perfectly. You will need to wind the window down to see this bolt, good job you left that battery connected! To tighten this up I had to turn it COUNTER clockwise. This is on my drivers door (right side of vehicle):
The second bolt is to the rear of the door through the larger hole here:
You may need to adjust the window height slightly to get a perfect view:
Give this one a tighten up too. Don't go mad with these you don't want to break the glass but you also don't want the window rattling around still. Use your judgement:
This is how far I had my window open to access the bolts:
Refitting is simply a reversal of removal. If you want you can use a hair dryer to heat the black tar like glue to stick the foam covering down better but I found it stuck just fine. Once everything is connected and you come to offer the trim panel back up to pop the clips in, just go round the edge as some may need nudging back into their mounting holes.
Now, go take your car down some of the streets near me and if they don't make it rattle it never will! It's nice to have a little more peace on the bumpy roads now
Hope this helps someone.
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Last edited by Scott87; 06-13-2010 at
. Reason: Spelling.
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