01-03-2011, 12:54 AM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Arlington, VA
My Ride: 2001 530i, 1997 M3/4
| i could be a dick and post something like this: http://www.woofersetc.com/p3743/MCC6...att-Meters.htm
its a good amp.. you can't go wrong with it..
if you are on a budget, this would be fine: http://cgi.ebay.com/US-Acoustics-USX...item2a0c138c5c
this should do the trick...
ok... i am serious.. you will never hear a difference in the THD of one amp over another.. especially with subs..
therefore.. this is a general rule of thumb.. look at the fuses.. multiply the total fuse amperage by 10
if an amp has 2x 20 amp fuses... then it is probably about 400 watts rms..
the math is based on the fact that an alternator is 14.4 volts, and a car battery is 12 volts.. the voltage your amps sees is in the middle.. a class a/b amp is about 60% efficient or something (yes i know class D is more efficient - but yeah... it is still x10).. therefore, the general rule of thumb.. take the fuses and add a zero... you see a boss or pyramid amp that says 2000 watts and it has 2x 15 amp fuses.. that won't be able to put out more than 300 watts..
i have no idea what brands are over/under rated anymore.. last i knew RF, MTX, and Kicker still made good amps, they over-rated for a few years and then stepped it back after everyone was schooled on the ebay chrome amps that were crap... other companies got bought out and consolidated and now their amps cheap Chinese crap.. i had a guy once tell me that the rule of thumb was $1 a watt... i could accuse him of lying.. but at the same time.. if i paid $500 for a 500 watt zapco amp from him back in 1998, it would still be running strong today...
Last edited by scott0482; 01-03-2011 at 12:56 AM.