Phew!!! What a job... not to discourage anyone, but there's a lot of hidden extra work that comes with CV/axle replacement when a) the car is old and rarely been worked on and b) you've never done it before. Lots of seized on bolts & nuts, rust & grime to remove, lots of hammering to get axle out and back in, lots of wondering if you're doing it right when there's tiny gaps that turn out not to matter when everything's back together.
Overall AWESOME experience, and the car is 100% better now! So stoked. I took a few pictures here and there, I'll try to post a short write up. In short, I ended up doing a whole front-end workover: new cv/axle left and right, new left and right lower control arms, new inner ball joints, new tie rod ends, new sway links, new control arm polyurethane bushings, MAJOR cleanup of the CV-boot-grease mess. Stoked!