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Old 10-29-2011, 11:54 AM   #6
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Beavercreek, OH
Posts: 102
My Ride: '01 330xi
I just did this a few days ago, along with the subframe and differential bushings. Easiest way to get them out is a hacksaw or reciprocating saw, with the latter being much faster, to slice through the outer metal sleeve after getting the center metal core out. (In my case, the metal core literally fell out once the aluminum support bracket was off! If the metal core is still in, then there should be plenty of room to use a saw to slice around the metal core. With the subframe bushings, this was easier to do with a long sacrificial drill bit, as the bushings were smaller around with larger metal cores.) Then the bushing caves in on itself pretty easily and is out with a few whacks of a hammer and cold chisel. Just be careful when using a reciprocating saw that you don't slice into the transfer case housing. If you're careful, but moving quickly, you can have the old bushing out in about 5 minutes.

Pressing them in requires nothing more than various lengths of grade 8 bolts, some washers, a few nuts, and a couple of metal plates for either side of the bolts. I think I had a large (for 1 1/4" pipe) floor gas pipe flange from Lowe's for pressing in and 2 spring pad plates from TSC on the opposite side for pulling against. I used a little bit of soapy water on the outside of the bushing as it was pressed in, and it was in ~5 minutes.

I had 1/2" bolts for the subframe bushings, and I found those were just the slightest bit too big to slip all the way through the transfer case bushing core due to the fact that it tapers slightly inward in the center of the core. Instead of going to the store and buying 3/8" bolts, washers, and nuts, I just sent a 1/2" drill bit through the core and shaved away about 0.5 mm all the way around in the center to allow me to use the 1/2" bolts.

Although not 100% necessary, I greased the threads of each bolt before it was used and found that it was much easier to tighten up without damaging them. All the bolts I used are still fine, and I'm saving them for future bushing removal / installation.

Whether you are doing this work with the transfer case in or out of the car, this would be a great time to change its fluid! I changed all my driveline fluids last October, and at that time the transfer case fluid was disgustingly black with fine shiny specs in it... made me cringe as it drained out! I decided to change the transfer case fluid again as it was out of the car, and after only 10k miles it had a hint of red to it, but was still rather black.

Last edited by jcarpfishman; 10-29-2011 at 11:56 AM.
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