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Need help: Just did something i shouldn't have

16K views 52 replies 11 participants last post by  PRDesignsTony 
#1 ·
I recently bought an 03 325i for the wife. Been doing a lot of maintenance. Replaced the belts, water pump, water pully, crankcase ventilation system, VCG, oil filter housing gasket and a bunch of other things.

Well i've been putting everything back in, I decided to take off the purge valve to free up the bottom hose from bothering me. well I was putting the purge valve(also known as the fuel tank breather valve) back on, everything was fine, connected the plug, connected the small rubber tubing(this is where it all went bad), and as i was connecting the bottom tube that clamps on, i accidently pull the purge valve to much towards me and the rubber tube comes off something. It's attached to the purge valve but not the other end. I have no idea where it goes to and it seems like its really under the intake manifold.

What should I do. this is going to set me back about an hour or two if i have to remove the throttle body and the pressure regulator IF thats all i need to remove. PLEASE HELP ME OUT GUYS, WHAT ARE YOUR SUGGESTINGS.


I found this image, and it looks like i gotta remove the intake manifold, PLEASE DON"T TELL ME I GOTTE REMOVE THE INTAKE MAN. THAT WILL PISS ME OFF :ben: :censor::censor::censor::censor::censor::censor::censor::censor::censor::ben:


 
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#2 ·
I haven't removed the manifold, but I'd suggest that first you use an inspection mirror and good led flashlight! If you can't see anything, you could remove underskirt and see if you see where it goes. From the picture above, I'd guess that if you have the small vac line only, that you could get it plugged into that rubber hose leaving the intake...assuming that picture is with that hose plugged in.

Let us know please. Also...you might search your issue by using a title search. 'breather hose' would probably work.

GL!
 
#4 ·
I'm sorry to say it but........

That part of the mani is so buried I doubt you can look that deep down with a mirror. You might be able to pull that 16mm bolt wayyyy down at the bottom of the manifold and then pull all the 11mm manifold to head nuts off and lift the whole manifold up just enough to get your hands down under there and re-plug it in. Not sure though. Good luck man
 
#6 · (Edited)
^^^^ I dunno man, i just can't reach around into that arear. their is just no possible way to get behind that, even if i do remove the throttle body and the the pressure regulator. It's a good thing i have a set of intake manifold gaskets laying around. I can't believe this stupid little wire just screwed me big time. Everything was going in perfect, Had bout an hour or less left and i'd be finished putting everything back in. Well I guess its time to get to work :(

I may be able to get to it through the side but than ill have to take off the belt again, the tensioner pulley, the alternator and the oil filter housing but everything is already torqued and i don't have another filter housing gasket, i dont want to risk it and than still not being able to reach back their. ill try to just unscrew the intake manifold a little bit and just lift it and put it on its side a little. Just enough for me to reach in and connect the hose.
 
#7 ·
I don't think you will need to replace the gasket. Its pretty resilient. I reused mine when I redid the head because I had just replaced the gasket a few months before. But if you want it may just be the time to do it. I think if you can just pull all the mounting bolts and lift the manifold up just enough to clear the head studs, you might be able to pivot the intake just enough and get your hand down in there. That would at least save you from unplugging all those pita wires and hoses down in there.
 
#9 ·
so I did remove the intake manifold and got everything plugged in. Ended up using the original intake gaskets because ECS sent me the wrong set, HUGE THANKS! :censor: Anyway, nothing I replaced fixed my problem. Took it to a BMW shop(not the stealership) to get my eml/dsc/brake problem diagnosed, they said the Crankcase ventilation system had a vacuum leak somewhere and well i completely replaced that, replaced a lot of other things as well just do some maintenance on the car as well as put new coolant and oil into it. Any suggestions on what to do next ????????
 
#11 · (Edited)
It is too bad that much work didn't fix your problem.
A couple of suggestions to better understand your problem and give you a help:
1. List of codes
2. List of all items replaced in detail​

In the meantime, check this one out if anything was missed.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616
 
#12 · (Edited)
- Crankcase Ventilation System
- New DISA(previous owner, maybe like 200-300 miles on it)
- New MAF(like 200-300 miles on it)
- New lower and upper intake boots
- New Throttle Body
- New belts
- ECS water pulley
- New water pump with metal impellar
- Oil filter housing Gasket
- New BMW coolant, not cheap walmart crap
- Just put in Mobile 1 last night as well as a mann filter
- Also replaced the old cheapo walmart intake filter with a K&N filter.
- New plugs
- New ignition coils

thats all i can think of right now.

Thats about it so far. My symptoms are very strange though, it feels like the air/fuel ratio is screwed. Like my gas mpg is completely down on 12, its like its just spraying a crap ton of gas in. It goes to 25-30 once i'm barley on the pedal, but im not even throttling it much and its all the way down and stays down until its in 5th. I went about 150-200miles on a full tank of gas, THATS NOT NORMAL. My 330ci went 350-410 before fill ups. It shifts funny to. like 4th waits till 3500-4000 rpms. I'm starting to think maybe its an injector or the air pump????? I'll see if i can get those codes from the german mechanic shop that diagnosed it to be the CCV.
 
#13 ·
I'm starting to think maybe its an injector or the air pump?????
There is that little plastic vacuum tube that runs from that little valve or whatever that the air pump is connected to. it connects to the back of the intake somewhere. On both ends of that tube is rubber vacuum hose kinda like what you accidentally pulled out. I don't know if you replaced that crap but I know on my car it was very brittle and any slight movement broke it.

Maybe something to look at?
 
#17 · (Edited)
May be your injectors are stuck open.
A couple of suggestions:
Get the codes from Autozone. It will tell you what to look for.
Using a stethoscope, listen to each injectors and verify all injectors are ticking.
Pull out the spark plugs and compare them. Some spark plugs may be wet.​
 
#19 ·
May be your injectors are stuck open.
A couple of suggestions:
Get the codes from Autozone. It will tell you what to looking for.
Using a stethoscope, listen to each injectors and verify all injectors are ticking.
Pull out the spark plugs and compare them. Some injectors may be wet.​
spark plugs are new though, as well as the coils??? should i still take them out? I'll take the car to autozone again tomorrow, thing is i haven't had the codes reset after i just finished putting all this new stuff on. Where can i get a stethoscope. Or can i just remove the fuel rail and look at the injectors???

When i bought the car i took it to autozone to check the engine light, two codes came up, one was for the idle control valve being stuck open which i took out and cleaned, works great and than the fuel tank purge valve was not working so i got a new one, had those two codes cleared and than after an hour or two of driving the check engine light came on. Went back to auto zone and than these two came up

P1084 Fuel control mixture limit too rich Bank 1, Sensor 1
P1086 Fuel control mixture limit too rich Bank 2, Sendor 1

HOWEVER, THESE CODES ARE BEFORE I DID MY MAINTENANCE, not after so i would really have to go back to autozone and tell them to reset than see what pops up next. My autozone is anal though, when i ask them to reset my engine light they say they can't do that, when they can, but they dont want to.

the autozone code readers are just OBDII though, i don't think it will truly grab whats wrong with the car but who knows.
 
#20 ·
Alright so I just spoke with the owner before me of when the lights exactly came on, asked him if he changed anything right before they came on. He says the lights came on after he replaced the Reservoir tank. I don't think that would hinder my gas and trigger the EML light though, even if the bottom plug/sensor was bad.

I'll take the car to autozone tomorrow, have them pull the engine light code, beg them to reset it, if it comes back on ill take it back to autozone and see what pops up. I have a brother that used to work on BMW's back in the day and he claims he thinks its one of two sensors he's got in mind that may be bad. Anyway i'll go see him tomorrow and see what he can tell me as well. I'll keep you guys posted
 
#21 ·
I recommended to check spark plugs after getting codes to see if certain cylinders are having a problem. Wait till you get the codes.

Don't remove injectors. You will not able to see anything visually causing this problem.

You can get a stethoscope from Autozone or harbor freight.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Automotive-Stethoscope/_/N-26gd?filterByKeyWord=stethoscope&fromString=search

Judging from the previous codes of 1084 and 1086, all cylinders are affected.
Possible causes:
1. Too much fuel pressure:
Rent a fuel pressure gauge from Autozone or Advanced auto part and measure the fuel pressure both at idle and higher rpm. It shoud be around 50 psi.
a) Check vacuum line going into the fuel pressure regulator at fuel filter. This vacuum line start at F-connector on the intake boot (right behind MAF). Plug one end and blow from the other side.
b) Did you change the fuel filter? Fuel pressure regulator may be bad if vaccum is okay.​

2. Stuck open injectors
3. Bad MAF - you have new
 
#24 · (Edited)
... the F-connection tube on the upper intake boot, you want me to disconnect it on the intake boot??? If i blow and its free than im guessing their is a leak???
Yes, exactly!
Fuel pressure regulator side should not leak.
Blow on the smaller diameter hose.
 
#28 ·
... but i was still able to get some air through.
So you think there is a leak?
When in doubt, you can use this tool to test it. If it doens't hold vacuum, it is leaking. I am not sure Autozone has one for rent or not. You can call and find out.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Liquid-siphoning-vacuum-pump-kit/_/N-25j2?itemIdentifier=70116_0_0_

If there is a leak in the system, you may have cut in vacuum line or leaking fuel pressure regulator.
 
#26 ·
I wouldn't think the fuel pressure regulator would cause it...I broke that little F tube thing it hooks to last year and while I was waiting for the part I drove my car around for a few days without that thing connected and it ran just fine. Also you're getting a too rich code in both banks. That means something is causing it to add more fuel to all cylinders. Could be O2 sensors? Usually that's what causes too lean or too rich codes. My uncle just replaced one O2 sensor in his Tahoe with the same sort of symptoms as you and it has less then 30,000 miles on it. He went through all kinds of crap and that one O2 sensor did the trick. A vacuum leak could also give weird symptoms like that though. Does the car idle rough or anything like that?
 
#29 ·
^^^ Well if i blow its not supposed to let any air go in what so ever or is it??? If its not supposed to let any air in than its defiantly got a leak. Here is a little short video of the idle and some revs. If you listen closely, when i rev and it drops back down it feels like the car is bugging down and about to die but than it regains. Sometimes white smoke will come from the exhaust, not a lot, and not while driving, just during idle a little bit comes out sometimes, but not always. Also their is some sort of black crap that comes from the exhaust. Don't mind the dirty car, I will give it a full on detail after i fix the problem and get the new bumper painted.

If I figure the problem out, i'm defiantly going to do a write up on this for other people if they experience the same. My garage door spring broke so waiting on the repair man to come by, as soon as he fixes it im going to change out the fuel filter and see if gets any better. Not going to hurt anything, not like i have to go to the stealership or order one. Got a new one in the box laying around so mind as well. Its about time to change it to.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ystH6TD9TTc&feature=youtu.be
 
#30 ·
Alright guys, so I'm pretty sure i figured out why im getting the EML lights or at least why im getting the p1084 and p1086 engine codes. As I got under the car to change the fuel filter, I noticed one of the tubes was broken off and disconnected. I think its the tube that connects to the upper intake boot. The tube that you told me to blow through dslboomer. Now does anybody know the part number for the tube??? it's not just a regular rubber tube, this one has a metal lining inside.





Alright now I also noticed an empty spot here. Is this normal ?? or is their supposed to be another tube here?????
 
#32 ·
...As I got under the car to change the fuel filter, I noticed one of the tubes was broken off and disconnected. I think its the tube that connects to the upper intake boot....

... now I also noticed an empty spot here. Is this normal ?? or is their supposed to be another tube here?????
Excellent!:clap:
Glad to see that you followed through and put efforts to take pictures to share with us.

Hard to match the part number in the realoem.com. Illustrator got lazy on many parts I found. It doesn't have a metal liner. It is 90 degree elbow vacuum hose that was broken off from the vacuum port of fuel pressure regulator. Just take the fuel filter with you to Autozone to get a 90 deg elbow with matching diameter.

You are not missing anything in the clip. It is empty spot there.
 
#34 · (Edited)
:( :( :( Was really hoping that was going to be my fix. But nope. The light still comes up and car drives funny, still hesitates at times. This problem is starting to piss me off.

Just called the shop that diagnosed it was a CCV thats was cause my issue. Waiting on a call back, Gonna ask how much they charge to just read the codes.
 
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