So I got up early today & pulled everything out again, checking all of my connections.. Turns out one of the nuts that were connected to the positive connector was terribly loose..
It goes like this:
15mm hex nut | positive connector | 17mm hex nut
The 17mm hex nut was snug, as I suspected (because I clearly remembered tightening it well enough), but upon removing that and the positive connector which was in between, the 15mm hex nut spun freely. I was able to screw it out with my fingers. That was the likely culprit, so I just took everything else out and re-installed everything back, making sure they were all tight and secure. This DIY guide didn't have any torque values (I'd image it'd be an absolute pain to get a torque wrench in there, anyways) so I just tightened everything to a point where they wouldn't budge and it'd take some effort to break the seize, but not too much (I've made that mistake in the past already...). Upon installing everything else back, putting the PS reservoir in place, and the air box back into position, I fired the car up with the voltage showing via OBC, and I was delighted to see it back to normal!
I haven't driven it yet, though, but I will for a good while (and near my neighborhood!) to be sure. When the car is off, it gives me a reading of 12.2-12.3V, when it's idle it gives me 13.5-13.6V (when cold, I haven't checked fully warmed up yet) and when I drive it and go to around 3K RPM's it should be around 13.8-14.1V. I did rev the engine in neutral to about 3K and it gave me 13.7-13.8V (again, cold, as I'm not sure whether or not it'd be different), but I'd suspect it would be different when in gear? How does that sound?
Last edited by filipinoise; 05-18-2012 at 01:01 PM.