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Old 07-13-2012, 05:42 PM   #6
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 605
My Ride: has an iron lung
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The Fed-Ex man stopped by today. He asked what exactly I am up to since yesterday he dropped-off a 60lb box (12 quarts Redline D4, 3 quarts Redline 75w90) and today he had a box I could comfortably curl-up in. After acting totally cool and calmly accepting the box I pulled everything out and looked at it. Then I looked at my car since it was up in the air for the LC-1 install anyway and held up piping.


Then I called my indy.

The self-install is a no-go. HOWEVER. I do plan on taking any pics anyone wants with protractors and measuring tapes once it's installed! I would do this myself but my friend who's dad owns Hi-Tech Turbos is out of town so I cannot steal one of their bays and a mandrel bender. Also I am a full-time+ student (17 credits normal semesters, 13 summers) and finals are week after next, so that adds to the complexity.

My trust in my choice of shops was re-affirmed. The tech who works on my car (he asks to be assigned to it) complements the work I do on it, and I complement the custom work he does on it. Really our roles are reversed. BMW maintenance I handle (unless weary or lacking in special tools) and he does the custom work and/or things that require more than 3 ratchet swiveling extensions and/or welding. He was absolutely giddy to have the opportunity to install this. He knew of my plans to go FI, and he had a feeling I was going to do it myself, and he flat-out admitted that he wanted to drive the car once the break-in period was up. After he concluded that he can make it work, he looked at me and flat-out told me that he was going to cut-out the high-flow cats I had him install after I did headers. I was not given a choice in the matter.

I found that comforting; as I intended to have him cut them out anyway. He then urged me to consider a new exhaust system. I know that with headers and stock exhaust there WILL be some drone (which will drive me mad). My intention is to avoid having a car that competes with fart-canned civics for annoying other people. I have no doubt that it will sound a little mean and edgy, but this is a DD and I don't want my neighbors to secretly plot my demise when I leave every morning at 6:30am for class. My saving grace is that my nearest neighbor is a major petrolhead. He absolutely loves to see me working on the car and said he didn't mind the currently noisy cold starts (Injen intake is NOT quiet outside the cabin. Inside the cabin, it's not any louder decibel-wise than stock). So I don't know what to do on the exhaust side of things. I'd like to keep the car a bit low-key but also have nice flow. Where the cats were (under pass. seat) I may do an x-pipe to try and alter exhaust harmonics and move the frequencies away from resonating freq.'s of the cabin.

Now for the confusing part of the update.

Two days ago I installed an LC-1 and wired it into the ECU, then re-flashed my ECU from EU2 to US. The flash triggered an insta-CEL since I could not reach any lambda probes with my ratchet sets due to the AWD subframe so all I did was do the wiring for the controller (sensor grounds to body ground, engine-side signal wires soldered to LC-1 yellow output, LC-1 sensor ground and heater ground to body ground, LC-1 power to accessory wire) and left the post-cat O2 sensors in their bungs and their heater wires connected so I wouldn't get heater faults. After the flash, I looked at all the sensors in INPA and all the parameters while it was idling (idles at 696rpm in neutral) so I KNOW it's looking for post-cat O2s. In fact, in INPA the post-cat O2 sensors were showing a voltage so the LC-1 is definitely outputting volts even though its lambda probe is sitting right here next to me as I type. NOTE: I HAVE NOT told the LC-1 what volts to output. It is at 100% default settings. Anyway that was all good and the car was idling smoothly so I drove to school yesterday for class and a test, then drove home, then went to Wal-Mart to get oil for my grandma's car since she and my mom are on a trip and she pays me to maintain it.

Then the CEL went out.

I don't know what to make of that. My car is running a US tune, it is monitoring for the presence of catalytic converters, and it is perfectly happy with whatever the LC-1 is telling it without a lambda probe attached. It's like everything I know about everything is wrong.

It matters to me because I ordered a custom vent gauge from Niel at VEI systems that displays AFR and boost. Props to Niel, seriously. He sold me EVERYTHING I needed minus some wire and a wideband controller and O2 for $165 shipped. And that's for the more-precise boost sender, too. The normal sender that reads boost to one tenth of a PSI was $15 less. So seriously, if you need gauges, VEI systems. They even worked late on the night of the 4th to build my gauge before Thursday since they had it off. This meant I got the gauge much earlier. He provided good directions, answered every question, and even replied to my odd-hours emails. I cannot say enough good things about Niel and VEI. To sweeten everything: the custom PCB from Niel has light detection. I don't mean ambient light detection, either. I mean if you connect it to pin 34 or 35 on your LSZ (headlight 12v) then it will dim itself when your lights come on.

Tchleung has this thread regarding his use of the gauge, and frankly it looks fantastic. Here is a pic taken from his thread.

Speaking of that gauge, expect pics and hopefully some detailed ones at that. I have a slick button cluster setup I'm working on that fills-in the ash tray and SHOULD leave room for a stealthed radar detector remote display since I will most likely need one. The long and short of it is: I think the LC-1 default LED and button look hideous. If I put them in the engine bay, I know I'll be too lazy to use them regularly. So I bought two momentary switches like the one below but in red (amber was too many volts and nobody had it in stock so I would have had to order 20.... at $11 apiece).

The illumination for the momentary switch for the gauge (so I can program the gauge, but when running press the button to display peak boost and reset monitoring for peak) will be powered by the ashtray LED contacts since the ashtray will be covered by tinted plexi. The LC-1 recalibration switch LED will be powered by the LC-1. What this means is that when I start the car, as the LC-1 warms up the switch's ring will slowly pulse/blink until the LC-1 is up to heat. Once it's up to heat it will stay illuminated just like the gauge momentary switch. I also got a low-profile rocker switch with a red LED that shows through a diffuse bar. This switch will be to turn the gauge display on and off just in case I get pulled over. Generally when you get pulled over and the officer sees a .75" digital display with "A/F" and "PSI", your insurance goes up. Me being a young caucasian male doesn't help. The LED in it uses a 12V input so I can tie the LED + and - with the gauge + and - so that the switch is lit when the gauge is on, dark when it's off. And if the red switches annoy me, I have measured heights of everything so I can just close the ash tray cover.

I'll try to update this again tonight (this time with pics) if I make more progress, but I do have some assignments due by midnight. Sorry I'm long on words and short on pics.

Sadly I won't be doing the install, but at least I know that everything fits in the trunk?

AA Stg2+ 325xiA? Are you stupid? Maybe a little.
I can program cars fo' freeee near Salt Lake City. PM for details.
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