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Old 09-09-2012, 09:41 PM   #2
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: CT
Posts: 2,138
My Ride: 2001 325i
I would not get drilled rotors, as they are prone to crack (and in fairness, all rotors with holes will crack at some point). Some holey rotors have the holes cast in when they are made, and that type will last longer. Drilling holes in a rotor adds all sorts of stresses, and the rotor will have a shorter life than a rotor with cast in holes.

Slotted rotors are meant to give gasses and water a way to get out from between the face of the brake pad and the rotor. I happen to like ATE Premium One rotors, that have a slotted pattern built into the rotor. When the slotting is gone, it's time to replace the rotor. They look like this:

Stainless lines will give you a little better pedal feel, as there's no rubber to expand. If you want to go this way, look for lines that are German TUV approved. I've always been a little wary of lines that say they are built to meet certain standards, but aren't certified. (I use standard rubber factory lines, and replace them after 10 years).

On both track and street, I've used ATE Typ 200, which is the same as ATE Super Blue, without the dye. I've found that the blue dye can dye white plastic brake fluid reservoirs, over time. The gold-colored ATE Typ 200 won't do that. Some people like to alternate them. If you want the specs, they are here.

For pads, you can spend hours and hours reading, as everyone has opinions and experiences. While I use stock pads for street usage, the next step I'd go to for more performance would be Performance Friction Z-rated pads.
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