E46Fanatics - View Single Post - Remote start how to: In depth.
View Single Post
Old 09-18-2012, 11:42 PM   #16
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Tucson
Posts: 138
My Ride: 2000 323i
So today I got the glass break sensor and remote antenna in. I also installed the led that came with the alarm, but i only did that for programming confirmations and such, not for arm/disarm confirmation. When you program the tachometer sensing wire, the original led lights up solid, letting you know that you succesfully programmed the tach wire. And when you go into valet mode the original led lights up. If it were not for these two functions I would not install the alarms original led. So i try to mount it in an inconspicous location so as not to be seen.

The audio sensor that I use is the DEI 506t

When it comes to additional sensors, you have many choices. I prefer DEI and autopage sensors, but you can use most any brand. You can use a motion sensor, a field disturbance sensor, audio sensor, multiple impact sensors, etc... It all comes down to your needs and personal preference. I have used them all many times with different outcomes. I tend to stay away from field distrubance sensors, they are notorious for being very finicky. They will work great when it's warm outside and the pots are set at a certain level, but then the temp drops and they are ridicolously sensitive ( a fart sets them off). But if you have a convertible and like to leave the top down, then it might be your best bet. The motion sensors work well, I have had much success with those. The problem with them is that they work when someone is in the vehicle.... so how did they get in??! (If you like to leave your windows down when your car is parked, then a motion sensor is a good choice) That is why I personally go with impact and audio sensors. All quality Alarms are tied to the door triggers. So If someone smashes your window and opens the door, the alarm is triggered. Well, thieves are hip to this, so what they do is break a window and crawl inside. If they take a bat to the window an impact sensor will trigger the alarm. However, if they use the porcelain from a spark plug, they can break the window with hardly any noise/movement at all. That is where the audio sensor comes in. It detects high freq sounds, so any impact to the windows will make noise and trigger the system. I am going to emphasize this point: This is my opinion and my take on the several sensors that you can incorporate in your security system. You should use whatever you think works best for your set up and personal preference.

You can mount the sensor pretty much any where you like. But a more central location makes its sensitivity to sound more well balanced. So I chose to mount it in the factory motion sensor housing.

I like to use a unibit to drill these types of holes. The final size hole is a 1/2 inch. Now that it's inserted into the housing, lets get it back up on the headliner.

Here it is back on the headliner. Once I dye my headliner black, you won't really be able to see it.

Now the mic portion of the audio sensor comes hardwired with a male rca plug. I cut the rca plug off so that running the cable through the headliner and into the B pillar would be easier. Although, you can probably run the cable intact. I like to use a long and flat zip/wire tie to fish my wires through panels and such. [IMG][/IMG]

Here is the wire fished through with our $5 dollar fishing tool.

Now that I have to replace the rca plug on the wire we have some soldering to do. This one is for you WDE46, heat shrink tubing!! Like I said, I do use it for non factory splicing connections.

This is what I like to use to heat up my tubing. Notice the attachment on the tip of the torch. This makes it so only heat, and not a flame, come out of the torch.

By this point you should have your B pillar plastic trim removed, as well as the rocker panel cover, and kick panel cover. We want to run our wires along side of the factory wiring. Remember, we are going for a stealth and fully OEM look. Run the wire all the way to the fuse panel/alarm compartment area.

Next is the antenna. It is crucial you mount it somewhere visible.This particular model alarm, and many others, use SST (spread spectrum technology) So they get really good range, typically 2500 + ft. You can mount this guy next to the A pillars (driver or passenger side) I like to put it in the center of the windshield. [IMG][/IMG]

We are going to fish our custom led cable and antenna cable through the headling towards the passenger side A pillar so we can head down towards the fuse panel.

Again, we want to run our cables right with the factory wires.
Notice how you can't even see any aftermarket cables/wires.

Once you got them down by the dash, you can route them along with this factory harness down to the fuse panel using our handy fishing tool.

So thats all for todays show. Tune in tomorrow for more updates.
benzovs is offline   Reply With Quote