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Old 09-22-2012, 11:55 AM   #290
HiHoBrian
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,114
My Ride: 05 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by F1004fun View Post
I have tested all sorts of o2 "sims" and it comes down to what the DME is looking for. The .650 volts that 99% of most o2 sims produce works on most cars that just look for good operating cat voltage. But when you let off on the gas and go into fuel cut our cars look for the lean signal and how long it took to get it. What is this $40 o2 simulator, tell me more about it. You say it is just a resistor wired to the DME harness, that sounds pretty vague. I have used the LC-1 on a 135i with great results, I don't see how your o2 "sim" worked on that car. I am going to need to see more information before I believe this claim. For $40 I'll buy my own and test it out.
This is what you need for a $3.00 O2 sim. You solder the resistor and cap in paralel with each other,then wire those as the sensor circuit,leaving heater wires hooked up where they were. This will stop the CEL,but in my experience will not allow post cat signal to be "ready". And after a long trip-100 miles or more,the may throw a code. DD is no problem though. I installed mine on my old 330 just after the connector under the valve cover-cover. Works,but not a 100% solution.Click image for larger version

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sent from my ATARI sc1224
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