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Old 10-28-2012, 10:31 PM   #11
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Chicago - Greece
Posts: 479
My Ride: Max PSI Stage 2
Originally Posted by Bdave View Post
I am SO glad you posted! Thank you so much. Yes, I was stricken when I read about his passing. I am a rider too and it makes me consider my mortality. I had some one close to me made basicaly brain dead by a person who ran a red light WITH A HUGE TRAILER. My friend hit the trailer head on.
Off topic but I cant help but talk about it.

Your observations on the software is the same as my observations.

Funny you should ask about chatter. OK. Second gear: Never.

My first gear: Yes, but......

I broke my Stage 2 clutch in INCORRECTLY! I babied it. Not correct. You are supposed to break it in decisively...especially first gear from a complete stop.
firm decisive "launch" from a stand still every time in first gear should be as smooth and firm as traffic will allow. It is not supposed to be a racing start but definitely a little faster and firmer than you would normally. After a few days you can back off a bit.

This procedure "teaches" the clutch to engage more smoothly. I am told there will always be a bit of chatter, but not too bad IF you do the proper break in.

I have since upgraded to a stage 3 (same disc lapped on to a Stage 3 pressure plate, then swapped out for one of the NEW discs with the riveted center splines. I dont know if South bend pre lapped it to the pressure plate or not. A brand new flywheel was decided to be fitted at the same time (Must be OEM with the SMG and feramic).

So, I will give a FULL report on how a STAGE THREE clutch with the CSL (still intact) software will handle first gear engagements after a PROPER break in period. I was under the impression that the stage 2 chatter would subside considerably had I cleared the adaptations (which I did) and then re taught the clutch in a fresh break in period (did not get the opportunity). The first gear chatter for the Stage 3 is unknown at this time.

Even though I broke it(my Stage 2 Feramic)in all wrong the first time, I could have lived with the existing chatter. It was not horrible. Less would always be better.

A very few virtually eliminate ALL the chatter.
I think it has a LOT to do with break in...just like you bed brake pads on to a new or existing disc. You need to transfer pad (or disc material in the case of a clutch) material on to the rotor(pressure plate in the case of the clutch).

How the disc conforms plays a big part in chatter too. I think South Bend will pre LAP your disc for a nominal charge (or NO charge) if asked. Inquire about this.
It can only HELP. It is a fantastic company that goes out of their way to help.

Can you provide more precise links for DIY software and INSTRUCTIONS for CSL software for the OP who is in Europe?

Can you share your personal experience executing the job? ALL of us would be most grateful and fascinated.

This job used to cost 599 usd via ESS Tuning. Figure in costs for FEDEX too!..well over 600usd!! WOW! That is way too much!

I like Vodyk's FREE sharing idea MUCH better. God Bless his SOUL!
Go to the original M5board thread and go to Page #38 and look at post #372; That is where all my Rapidshare links are located. If you do not have a Rapidshare account and would like temporary access to mine, just PM me and I will provide you with a password to use.

The EXACT directions can be found here:

The directions are really fool-proof and they provide the codes you need to enter for the regular Euro software or the CSL software; whichever you choose.

-When installing the WINKFP software, make sure you are running WINDOWS XP, I think some said they got away with Windows 7, but stick with Windows XP to avoid any errors.

-Connect your car to a battery tender; this is to trick your computer into thinking that the car is on and running. Set the volt to 13.8-14.4v to achieve this goal. You can connect the power cable to the power bolt under the hood and the ground cable on the alternator. You DO NOT need to connect to the battery in the trunk.

-Make sure you laptop or computer is set to NOT hibernate, NOT sleep, NOT shutoff hard drives, or TIMEOUT USB data transfer speeds when idle. This will ensure a quick and error-free install.

Besides those above tips mentioned, the directions will explain everything else in detail. The above points are key elements I think it is missing and a few problems I encountered when flashing.


Originally Posted by Dreikraft View Post
i dunno what you guys are talking about. i guess since i never updated my smg software maybe it wasnt as dumbed down like other cars who had updates more frequently so the difference was not as dramatic but i recently flashed the csl software this week. its noticeable but not night and day and starting in auto mode is kinda annoying. oh well
I felt a night and day difference, not to mention mostly everyone else that has done this upgrade. I do not know why you didn't.
Follow My Builds: Max PSI Stage 2 E46 M3 Turbo Build | 1972 2002 Restomod Build
2004 BMW E46 ///M3 | Maximum PSI Stage 2 Turbo | SMGII | Non-Catted | 711rwhp | 578rwtq

Last edited by BrianSpilner; 10-28-2012 at 10:32 PM.
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