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Old 11-29-2012, 02:24 PM   #25
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: St. Louis, Missouri US
Posts: 303
My Ride: 325i Sport Package 0
Just did the Meyle HD Arms/wishbones HD FCABS , tie rods/boots and new sway bar end links. The Meyle HD arms are FANTASTIC!

Your problem is most definitely the sway bar end links. Hopefully you replaced em when you had the wishbones and everything else out..

Your sway bar end links may either be shot or just loose. I remember even my stock shocks and end links needed washers because the threading was much longer than the thickness of the mounting point on the shocks. If you dont have the washer on there, you would tighten the end link all the way down but it would rattle because it wouldnt be actually tight on the shocks mounting point. I hope that makes sense.

Here's another scenario that you could have;

Depending on your suspension set up, the bottom of the sway bar end link may bang the MEYLE control arm! Remove the wheel and look for nicks on the control arm right below where the sway bar connects to the sway bar end links. This happened to me. If your lowered your ride or are no longer using the OE suspension you will need adjustable length sway bar end links and may need to shorten them 1-3 inches shorter than the stock length to avoid the bottom sway bar end link ball joint banging the control arm.

If you cant get the adjustable end links soon or dont want to, you can rig something like I did to artificially shorten them so nothing bangs.

Here's what I did:

I cut a 2x 4" long x 2" Wide 1/4" thick galvanized steel plates.

I drilled 2 holes in each of the steel plates. One hole on the top of the plate, one hole on the bottom of the plate. The drilled holes are the exact same size as the stud in the sway bar end links.

I then purchased 1.5" long bolts the same thickness of the sway bar end link studs along with some lock washers, fender washers and of course corresponding bolts.

I bolted one bar to each shock using the lock washers. I bolted the bars facing upwards to the part on the shock where the sway bar end link would normally connect to the front shock.

After the bar was bolted on, I then drilled an additional small hole through both the galvanized steel plate and the shocks "sway bar end link mounting plate" right next to where the sway bar end link would normally bolt to the shock.

This then allows you to connect the sway bar end link about 3 inches higher than It would normally bolt to , to avoid the bottom of the end link from smacking the control arm. The additional small hole described above prevents the galvanized plate from spinning because there are now 2 bolt holes instead of one.

"Brakes Stop The Wheels, Tires Stop The Car"
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