01-06-2013, 01:59 AM
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle / Sequim
My Ride: 2002 BMW 330Ci
| It's one thing to pick up a can of paint, even the factory mixed color, and paint the part expecting a job that will look acceptably similar to the factory job. It's another thing to actually make that happen.
Besides paint, if you wan't to do this the way a professional painter would do this, you will requre these materials.
What they didn't tell you at the shop is that BMW factory painjobs have a clear coat over the top of them so you're going to need that too. The clear will need to be an air dissolving catalyst to work from a rattle can. Add to the cost. The next thing you'll need t learn is when to use with grade of sandpaper as you're taking the surface down.
- 2 sheets of each grade wet/dry sand paper 100g,220g,320g,400g,600g,800g,1000g,1500g,2000g.
- A 1x3x5 closed cell foam block that you can form into a sandng block to be used with the sandpabper.
- A spray bottle for water.
- A solvent bottle for squirting laquer thinner to clean parts.
- A flexible surface prep rattle can. A sandable hi-build primer.
- An organic mask, to keep the fumes away.
- A buffer, 3 type of buffing pads, and at least to types of polish.
/// Auto => 6-Spd Manual Conversion | Apex EC-7 | Koni/Ground Control Coilovers | Vorshlag Camber Plates | Meyle HD LCA | PowerFlex bushings | GruppeM CAI | Shark Injector | 6000k HID's and Fogs | BMW European MTechII | BMW Performance Shifter | ACS Mirrors and Rear Spoiler ///