01-06-2013, 12:48 PM
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#16
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Weagle Weagle
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 3,905
My Ride: 2004 330Ci OBM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumCranium
It's one thing to pick up a can of paint, even the factory mixed color, and paint the part expecting a job that will look acceptably similar to the factory job. It's another thing to actually make that happen.
Besides paint, if you wan't to do this the way a professional painter would do this, you will requre these materials.
- 2 sheets of each grade wet/dry sand paper 100g,220g,320g,400g,600g,800g,1000g,1500g,2000g.
- A 1x3x5 closed cell foam block that you can form into a sandng block to be used with the sandpabper.
- A spray bottle for water.
- A solvent bottle for squirting laquer thinner to clean parts.
- A flexible surface prep rattle can. A sandable hi-build primer.
- An organic mask, to keep the fumes away.
- A buffer, 3 type of buffing pads, and at least to types of polish.
What they didn't tell you at the shop is that BMW factory painjobs have a clear coat over the top of them so you're going to need that too. The clear will need to be an air dissolving catalyst to work from a rattle can. Add to the cost. The next thing you'll need t learn is when to use with grade of sandpaper as you're taking the surface down.
Good Luck
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There is no way you need to work up from 100 grit paper, especially on a small part like this. You also don't need a ridiculous buffer setup. A part as small as this could easily be polished to perfection my hand. You're exaggerating the difficulty by a long shot.
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