I tried the mango method and the dmax method with no heat still so I took all the cooling system parts back off the engine and drained all the coolant back out. I used compressed air to back flush the heater core and hoses and didnt really see anything come out that would stop flow. Then I removed the water valve and cleaned it and check to see if it was working properly by applying 12v to it. Seemed to work fine. I was puzzled not finding anything obvious. I then reassembled the cooling system and bled the system per mangos instructions. With the exception of I put a 6" piece of clear 5/8" ID hose coming straight up off the bleed screw hole. I didn't like the idea of pouring new coolant all over the floor. Filled the ET to the top and started squeezing the lower hose to try to help force air bubbles the bleed screw. The hose really minimized the coolant being dump onto the floor as well as giving me a site tube to watch bubble escape the system. After 20-30 min of squeezing the hose and topping off ET no more bubbles were coming out of bleed screw. I then put 2 90 deg elbows together with clear hose on both ends going from the bleed screw then pouring into the ET cap I the started the car and lightly revved up the engine and I could see a whole bunch more bubbles come out the bleeder. I let run for 2-3 min the shut off engine. I put the screw back in and the cap back on the ET and restarted engine and let come up to OT and the heat was pouring out of the vents better than in ever has before. I will check level of coolant in the morning and adjust as needed.
Wanted to say thanks again for all the advise to get this problem resolved.
Tried to add pic to post but apparently I'm not smart enough to know how.
Last edited by farkas330i; 01-10-2013 at 07:59 PM.
Reason: adding pic